TurboTapin

Yes that will work.

There's a few other differences between S1/S2 that you will have to deal with, including either using an S2 coil pack harness or modifying your S1 coil harness to bypass the igniter. So short answer to your question, just buy an S1 ecu. They're probably giving the things away now. Long answer to your question, yes it can probably be done, but refer back to short answer for best option. I would never use an RB25 ECU to run an RB20. Cheers,

Your engine won't shut off with ignition if your MAF is unplugged? I want to confirm I'm reading that right.

The coil packs have built in igniters.

Anytime I still have a small amount of new oil left after an oil change on one of our cars, I dump it into a container. It's a concoction of different weights that I like to believe evens out to a 10W-30. I do an oil change every year on both my tractor and mower using that oil. Mower is at least 12 years old, and my tractor is about 5 and sat 2 weeks under 10 feet of water. Both still run great!

Ring & pinions are not interchangeable between long and short nose. Pinion is longer in a long nose diff. Cheers.

My comment was aimed at the mention of possibly using hydraulic lifter based cams with solid lifters. I make a lot more then 600hp. It has nothing to do with power. Cam/Lobe profiles differ between hydraulic and solid lifters. Kelford stated their hydro lifter cams cannot be used with solid lifters. Kelford will probably recommend their 244-A2 cams for your goals. Cheers.

I also intend to go solid lifter at some point with my S1 RB25. I asked Kelford if I could use my S1 VCT 264/272 (246-A2) cams and they said no. They recommended that I use their 244 NEO cams.

It can be replaced with off the shelf hose from any automotive parts store. Keep in mind there's an orifice in that hose.

That ecu will work. Just swap around the IO you need in the ecu. Look up Rb25/R32 conversion DIY's and they document which pins or I/O need swapped in the ecu.

I'm not entirely certain what your end goal is but if it's just to pop in an RB25 into an R32 using stock components, R32 and R33 loom both use the same ecu connector. Use the R32 loom and R33 ECU. You will have some minor changes to make to the ecu pinout though.

Would that not be a good candidate for a reweld/line bore?

LTFT is a useful tool, but always ask yourself why it's correcting first (I.E is it being too aggressive? is it fighting with decel?). Also more importantly, manually smooth out your fuel map afterwards as it will make it ugly and lumpy after applying.

Set your decel fuel cut to disable 1000rpm before your idle and you'll be fine with it on.

If you send me your tune, I'll take a look and let you know if anything funky stands out.

Was the car previously in a country with mandatory DRL's? Might have been a poor attempt at having them.

I've also been going back and forth on these... but seeing them on an actual car now, I think I'll get them. They look much better then I expected. What LED bulbs do these use? Easily replacable for both low/high beam? RHDJapan has them much cheaper then other sites.

If you disconnect the line going to your wastegate, you'll run spring pressure.

Get a friend to get into the trunk with a flashlight, close it and hose her down.

If you need the OEM RB20 knock sensors and knock sensor loom, let me know. I have them both laying around somewhere.

I was in the garage when I first heard of this.... then I looked at my BBS LM's and my Recaro SR3's and chuckled. My car comprises mostly of parts from defunct companies.

PM sent.

Car wont idle without the resistor in place. You can also bypass it. If you need one meanwhile, message me. Cheers.

If it has two wires, it's your fuel pump resistor and not an injector resistor pack. I have one laying around I can sell you cheap.

I've been busy doing a lot of little things on the car. I had purchased one of every ball joint, tie rod, etc. for the front to replace everything when I first purchased the car 6 or so years ago. Whatever I hadn't replaced at the time, I decided to do now even if some of the parts still looked fairly good. That came out to the right side kingpin bearings, both tie rod ends and left side lower control arm ball joint. Did another oil change and sent off a sample as well. I've been working on setting up another VSS. The Haltech GPS has been sucking away my soul. The delay is unbearable. I ended up popping off the rear stub ABS rings off some GTR stubs I had laying around and installing those on my stubs. I had to grind every other tooth off so that it met sensor specs (10mm gap between teeth). I made a small bracket that attached it to a diff bolt. I just have to wire it in this week. It was also the first time I've ever pulled off a shrink fit with only a propane torch. Slipped right on with gravity. It's thin enough to get rather toasty. As for why I haven't wired it in yet, I've been waiting for the IC7 firmware update that allows it to be used as I/O. I'm going to toss my I/O Expander and wire it into the IC7... I wanted to get it all done at the same time. Update came out, unfortunately it's rather buggy. I had to turn off I/O Expansion as I kept losing my Canbus connection on the IC7 with it on. I've never really been impressed with Haltechs firmware support as every version always breaks something, but it seems to have gotten worst over the last few months. Oh yea and still nothing from Speedtek...