Dose Pipe Sutututu

RB25DET NEO seems economical hahaha.... Well it did hold up pretty good at 1.6bar, only started spewing coolant like after lunch. The rest of the afternoon, kept it running at 1.3bar and my mate actually did 12 laps with the car and came back with still same amount of coolant. So I'm hoping there wasn't too "much" damage done. Good science experiment for me hahaha...

But most ECUs have a failsafe, so if the ethanol sensor fails then assume ethanol content is 0% or whatever you set it as. I'm running a flex sensor now too, drove to Wakefield yesterday with four jerry cans. After the track day, drove to 7-11 and filled up with 98 and drove home. And unrelated, I chopped two R34 GT-Rs down the straight at Wakefield...

sigh.... weighing up options now: Be sensible and run less boost Be a tight wad and apply more torque to factory studs Just replace with ARP headstuds New motor

Timing would be on par when WMI kicks in - however E85 would give you more linear torque coming onto boost.. where as WMI has that "jump" in timing when it comes on and off. I sat in zoom's car on Sunday and the torque coming on when the WMI kicked in and timing ramped up was insane.. literally neck snapping action... where as E85 you have crazy timing all round so the power/torque is more "linear" per se.

hahaha.. that involves a cost, however in saying that has anyone successfully removed the head studs and replaced them without taking the cams out? I know the factory cams has a indent/recess so you're able to slide a socket/extension down. If I was to remove the head and redo the head, I might as well just buy an used RB25DET NEO motor.

After some SAU searching, looks like I have the same issue on a completely stock RB25 with 23psi going through the motor. Was at Wakefield yesterday and after the 4th session noticed my overflow was spewing out water however the water temps never went past 95 degrees. Straight away knew the head was lifting, dropped the boost a little down to 18psi and it seem to be ok. Car probably saw about 9 sessions with each being driven hard - still manage to drive the car home in one piece. So now a question, can I just simply just try re-torque the head down without removing anything and just hope that it won't lift the head? I'm trying not to spend any money on the motor at all as I'm pretty happy with the power/response etc. (money to be spent on suspension instead).

^ just remove any enrichment for water temp over 60 degrees, easy enough

Alternatively ao to Western Clutch at St Marys and speak to Scott. He will sort you out, he stocks NPC clutches too and is able to modify the clamp pressure like how Doug at NPC does it.

stock water temp sensor through adaptronic & external water temp digital gauge

why would it run a higher temp? lol R34 thermostat opens at 82 degrees so your water temp will be close to 90 R33 thermostat opens at 77 degrees so your water temp will be close to 85 or so I prefer to run a lower temp one simply because when you're on the track there's a greater range before water boils. I'm using a 62.5 thermostat lol... but that's no ideal for a street car because your oil temp is too low (even if you have an oil thermostat as the oil temp is relative to the water temp due to the heat exchanger). Also R32/33/34 thermostats are the same size... I made the mistake of fitting a R34 GT-t thermostat in my R33 and kept on scratching my head on why the water was always close to 90 degrees.

PH just shows what the maximum boost you've hit for that setting, just take your car for a spin and your PH will displayed again

just go external gate and never look back (just under when flames shoot out)

Correct, Daniel used to work at BT Motorsports but then moved to Bridgestone at Liverpool. They still do custom wheel alignments when Daniel is there however their clamp doesn't fit around wide tyres. I brought my R33 with 255 R compounds all round and they couldn't get the alignment tool to sit on the wheel properly. So their manager suggested I go to BT Motorsport (they own both).

me too, I actually hate my R33 but it's all I can afford that's fast and reliable lol

yezzz... credits: http://www.spoolimports.com/project-car/turbowerx-4-0-litre-skyline

say what? lol

bring it to BT Motorsport, like $65 and they dial in whatever you want.. pretty cheap IMO. FWIW, I run 8 degree front castor and 1mm toe out each side up front.. rear has -1 degree camber and 0 toe. Car is planted as fuark.

put motor in a R33/R34 then lol R33 both have dual airbags, ABS, pyro pre tensioner seatbelts.. no creaks

I've owned 2x R33s.. both of which had lock bars both of which either had the bulb removed or depinned the wire on the ECU, both had no issues.

Hallos, I have a 2 year old Bosch (genuine) 85AMP alternator for sale. Comes with a spare near new genuine Bosch regulator too. If you're wondering why there's a near new voltage regulator? well I thought the previous one was faulty however the it turns out my sense wire on my harness was severed so it would come on and off charge. What you will get: Bosch 85AMP Alternator Bosch Voltage Regulator (spare) Bosch to Hitachi harness for sense & dash light wiring - this also means it will fit R31 and VL commodores too when the harness is not used. This shit bolts straight up and provides 5 more amps than the factory RB25 alternator and 15 more amps than the RB20 alternator.. will work on a GT-R too however you'll have 5 amps less than the factory alternator. Price: $80 Location: Canley Vale

Connect up a timing gun and pull 2~3 degrees out of the base timing so at idle you're reading 12~13 degrees of timing. That should be more than enough to keep your motor happy on 95RON equivalent with a slightly bigger turbo.

After cat is always a little leaner (pretty normal).. I prefer to do all my tuning with the wideband attached precat OR a hollowed cat. AFRs are good, IAT is getting towards the warm side but still ok.. on the dyno after 3~5 consecutive runs it would get quite warm ~ hot. Timing is pretty low, I'm surprised you're getting knock... unless there's an exhaust restriction and/or a faulty CAS. Have you checked your base timing? i.e. locked the timing say at 15 and used a gun to double check the timing?

Install an intake air temp sensor (if you don't already have one), Andy has them for pretty cheap and the adaptronic is already prescaled for the GM sensors. Could be high intake temps that are causing the car not to take timing. Another thought is a dud CAS. Run your car on the street and log a 3rd gear pull and post it here.. would help to see what's going on provided there's a wideband and an IAT connected.

install the haltech, I'll put together a base map for you with o2 feedback enabled - but you need a wideband connected to it.

Just get a C63 AMG (hopefully when our import laws are relaxed)... that's what I will be doing.