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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Car was just at a dyno day at Powertune so I wasn't controlling the runs.. I did tell Chea to run the car with different boost settings, but at 1.6bar it bled down to 1.5bar. Ended up doing 1x run at 1.5 bar and 2x runs at 1.6bar... I'll upgrade the FMIC and then hire out a dyno and pump more timing through the motor. Adam at Powertune did say my manifold was glowing red by the 2nd run. Signs of high EGTs and/or flow restrictions.. probably won't get round to doing any of what I said till February.. barely have time to do anything with the car these days lol
  2. Alrighty, part where everyone gets excited.. Details: Hypergear SS2 45mm Turbosmart External Gate off Housing (thanks scotty_mn35) E85 1.6bar boost, made more power on 1.5bar IAT shot up to 50 degrees, subsequently lost 3 degrees of timing (I take 1 degree off every 5 degrees above 35) Stock motor Stock manifold, stock plenum Timing Map: Dyno Reading at Power Tune: Virtual Dyno Reading (Using Log File on the same run at Power Tune):
  3. it's just excel I create pivot tables with filters then create graphs from it
  4. When the car was on the dyno, I left the laptop logging data. Looks like the intercooler is unable to keep the charge temps low (I have a GM IAT sensor just after the FMIC). I'm using a HDi core with Plazmaman "swept back" piping.. the FMIC measures 600x300x76mm. P.S. I'll scan my dyno sheet tomorrow at work
  5. better intercooler, I found that my intake air temps shot up to 52 degrees towards the end of each run and subsequently the ECU was taking out 3 degrees of timing (I set it like that so I don't kapow motor)... Turns out the HDi intercoolers are ok, but cooling wise they aren't that great when you're putting through 1.6bar of boost.. when I did logging on the streets with quick squirts in 2nd and 3rd gear intake temps were great, but the true test is when it's off it's chops in 4th on a dyno. I'm seeing if it's worth getting a 100mm Plazmaman cooler OR just a ling long dim sim 600x300x100..
  6. Side feeds are gay when you go into the bigger capacity region.. I learnt the hard way, and here's an article I wrote on how to get top feeds into a R33 using the stock plenum... http://www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/ don't think Andrew's kits fit under the stock plenum
  7. Spotted MAD-33R at Milsons Point this morning as I was walking to work
  8. ....... yes that is the truth On another note, decided to strap my shit box to Powertune's heart breaker dyno.. only made 315kW... however I did notice my manifold was glowing red, meaning it needs MOAR timing I logged all three runs too on my laptop and transposed that data into Virtual Dyno and used a lower reading "mustang dyno" setting and it was showing 345kW... Another guy with a R34 GT-t said his car was making well over 360kW, and only put out 320kW.... so I'm pretty happy with my results overall considering it was all self tuned & self built. I'll take a snap of my dyno sheet tonight for lulz. So (again), I've decided to keep my car - this means more mods.
  9. Go on E85, lean outs result in misfires not kapowed motors (well 2 out of 3 instances)
  10. Fine, I'm not going to lie. I wanted gate LOL Fek all those Honda homo vtecs, I has gate... Don't be mad
  11. did you just blanket timing across the map? I started off with a decent 98 map then just went Ctrl + A and Page UP x5 LOL.. of course that was just to get started
  12. Log your voltage with your ECU, see if the voltage drops as you drive in the higher rpm area. I had a similar issue where my car would splutter and shit whenever it was warm. Turned out my alterntor was cactus and voltage dropped to 12.2 volts after 4000rpm or so
  13. +1, get the high flow - meets all your requirements and lighter on the pocket. I got the SS2 because I wanted a dyno queen LOL
  14. Just sell it and buy something more modern.. but the time you buy the cable and/or datalogit etc.. blah blah blah and find out you need inputs for your wideband/flex sensor/secondary speed sensor you'll just end up selling it anyway
  15. sounds like you got some horrid dim sim soy chicken with fried rice special turbo.. just do yourself a favour and buy a Hypergear turbo for Christmas At least you'll have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year with better response down low lol
  16. Nismo GT is great, allows you to adjust the torque by popping out the RHS Axel stub. I used the non GT version before and it was great and npw on a KAAZ 2 way which I find pretty aggressive compared to the Nismo. Then again the nismo was worn (used diff)
  17. Sounds like a laggy car
  18. the QFM pads are good for street use, and around windy roads.. however they are not what people say a cross over pad for street and light track, etc. At Wakefield, after the 1st lap you can feel it fading away, by the 2nd lap you can really feel it.. after the 4th lap it feels like you've got no brakes at all. However, I have a mate in a S15 Silvia and it seems to hold up ok. After we both changed to Project MU HC+, the difference was day & night on the track... just one thing though, they squeal like crazy!
  19. I found that Bendix Ultimate & Project MU HC+ chewed rotors the quickest.. I would say Intima SR & QFM A1RM are about on par... in 2nd place As you increase brake pad performance, the rotors suffer.
  20. add some octane booster gives you free boost
  21. EBC is light years ahead of a gauge & a dinosaur t-piece. 20k car and using a 20$ t-piece/bleed whatever it is.. kinda silly if you ask me
  22. I was referring to base timing, with the TPS & IACV disconnected and the idle adjusted the base timing must be set to 15 degrees
  23. IBTL haha... I run 1.6bar on a stock motor, with stock cams, with stock manifold and stock plenum
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