GH05T

very unlikely to be the cause of your problem though.

are you talking cheap vynal wrapping, or actually getting cf overlayed? why not get in the group buy thread and see if they do the parts you want in proper CF reproduction.

slap

also. well done on the purchase. put picks up when you get it and get a build thread going when you eventually get bitten by the modding bug and weekend it. also well done for doing the right homework and thinking about the things which need to be thought about

i dailied my 32gtr up until now. its not hard to do if its a good car. however im now modding mine more so its a weekender. simply because when you mod you break and you work on it/ wait for parts/ wait for funds/ break more shit/ rinse and repeat. over 300atw and daily and 25 yr old race car don't go easily together. trust me.

need a dedicated forsale Nazi

step one - stop smashing that level of boost. your gonna lean it out and kill it fast. fuel blockage will not cause high boost, plumb the lines back into the actuators/ boost solenoid properly, if you don't know whats going on put it back to stock and get it right. it might just be bleeding to nowhere and free boosting

that's the most random set of pictures to sell 3 cars.

surprise

what are the dump pipes you have?

I usually suggest sticking with a more "classic white" the newer whites have a bit of blue to them and are a bit starker/ brighter, but the classic flatter white looks better on older cars. IMO

love the look when all the wiring is hidden. I saw an stock "looking" engine in a 33 which had a full tuck. it looked so nice. took me a few seconds to figure out why it looked so good stock. them im like, oh yeah no shit everywhere.

sjy... you need to put atleast a ballpark price that your happy to spend,

yeah its literally open it up, heat up the joints with a tiny bit of extra solder and your done, mine looked fine, heated them up and just literally dabbed extra solder on it to make it liquefy and that's it. solved all my problems which were identical to your description.

definitely bad solder joints in your afm, cut it open and resolder them.

it would be a very sharp nose for the big stagea.

yes. its going to make a dif..................... gtsboy beat me too it. its gonna make a difference in the air intake which is a huge part of the tune. but yeah whats the gain your looking for? unless your planning to use a chewap chineese shit your spending like $2000 including labour + the cost of a retune. at minimum for no benefit. I could spend that much more wisely. but to answer your question.. yes

jesus christ Borci, let it go man, why are you sticking so hard to your guns? nistune is fine, personally if i was spending money to push to 400 i would like some safety features, i would go maffless as resolution may become an issue. there is a good argument to go haltec and a decent argument to stay nistune. there is still a good argument to go and spend allot more and get a motec or something. BUT your banging on like he should rip out a nistune and spend money on a used pfc like a bad used car salesman, where was your valid point in this thread before you filled it with shit and arguments?

lol

maby a haltech and sell your amfs for half the cost of it?

the afm plug solder points will almost always look solid, mine did. I resoldered anyway and fixed my issue, very similar issue, costs you nothing and is very common.

ugh, so good.

would you consider separating the wheels from the tires? they are good but simply will not fit under my car

ah, cool. im just contemplating crowbarring them under the 32....

are those rims the same specs front to back? from the pics im guess no?