Murray_Calavera

Touch wood, after nearly 20 years of track events, I've only ever been left stranded once due to a mechanical failure. That tow from Wakefield was around $600. So buying a tow car, trailer, paying for rego and insurance on both just so I can tow the car home in the event of a breakdown never really made financial sense to me. Plus I've never really had anywhere to put said tow rig and trailer. The downside is, I drive with a lot of mechanical sympathy for the car. So I'll be staged at the drags and a part of me really wants to launch the car as hard as I can... but I never do. Or I'll be at a drift event and the situation really calls for a big clutch kick.... but I'll just let the car straighten and next time out I'll just try and use a bit more weight transfer and a little hand brake. One day I'll adopt the "fkn just send it" mindset and I'm thinking this might be a solution for me - https://www.shannons.com.au/roadside-assist/overview The roadside assist is very well priced and you get unlimited tows home from the track (within 100km of the track).

If the clips cannot be installed, I'd say the most likely issues are either, incorrect installation or a build up of brake dust which is reducing clearances. Brakes, as I've been saying this whole time, squeal when you don't install the required shims (which also includes all of the other brake hardware, clips, springs, etc). Look at all of the millions of factory cars driving around and none of them have squealing brakes. Our skylines are no different. Correctly install all of the factory brake shims and hardware and then report back if they are still squealing.

So you didn't put the clips in?

I have a feeling you are missing some of the brake hardware. Yes you might have shims and the retaining spring, but there is still more hardware. Have a look at the link below. See those clips, without them it could be squeal city. Are your shims genuine? https://www.efisolutions.com.au/brake-caliper-shim-hardware-kit-front-r32-z32 How about your rear brakes, do they have all the required shims/hardware? https://www.efisolutions.com.au/brake-caliper-shim-hardware-kit-rear-r32-r33-z32 Have a look at the parts diagram in each of the links, make sure you have everything. Have you bled the brakes?

I have no idea what they charge, but if it's cost effective, maybe send some brake fluid off for testing? https://www.savantlab.com/applications/brake-fluid-testing/ If it's reasonably priced, might be worth the peace of mind.

Using 2 different coloured brake fluids makes it very easy to do a complete flush as well. Say the proper fluid you want to run is yellow. Start with a cheap yellow DOT 3/4, then flush with a cheap blue DOT 3/4 and then finally use the brake fluid you want to actually run, keep flushing until the blue is gone.

Get it welded up by a decent welder. Check it for straightness after it's done.

Yeah, I didn't really think about my example for more then a few seconds before typing it out lol. It was meant to be a visual aid, probably should have gone with something like, "picture all the skyline's at the track that empty 2L of oil into their catch can after each session".

Where does your PCV valve live and what does the P stand for?

Have a think about what you'll do if it's case that as you chase the rust back with the wire wheel, you end up with a hole. Hopefully the rust isn't that bad, but better to have a plan in place for if you find yourself in that situation.

If I had to guess, I'd say you are missing some/all of the factory brake shims. In addition to the above - when was the last time you bled the brakes? It could be as simple as your fluid has turned to jelly on left side causing them not to work.

100% agree with this. Our poor datto's should really be getting compared to E30 or E36 BWMs for a fair comparison.

Here is an example - https://www.3m.com.au/3M/en_AU/p/d/b40067001/

Trying to stop it from getting worse = use fish oil Band aid fix = wire wheel / light grinding to remove visible rust, use rust converter, reseal and repaint Proper fix = you go digging and keep chasing the rust, all metal with rust is cut out. New metal is welded in. Seal and paint.

I'd be looking at MCA or Shockworks.

Correct, it's not superficial. It's very common unfortunately I just went crazy with the fish oil in my car and am doing lots of fingers crossed nothing gets worse. When the time comes I'll start hitting up workshops like this - and have everything restored better then factory. When it comes time to pay I'll just close my eyes and give them a credit card. http://olschoolgarage.com.au/

As a rough guide - Street driving? Every 5,000km. Track use? Some do it after each track event.

What frequency do you run yours at?

Yep, use the factory wiring. I haven't checked the pinout for your ECU, but I'd be amazed if it wasn't setup to use the factory wiring for the MAC valve.

Your high boost setting should be tuned to be completely safe to use. Your ECU should have engine protection setup so that you shouldn't have to worry about anything blowing up if something was to go wrong. (but hey, not all tuners bother setting up engine protection. My car had a Haltech pro plugin when I bought it, and whoever tuned it previously didn't bother setting up any engine protection). Just had a quick look at the Link CAN gauge manual, looks like it's just the normal CAN wiring and an additional +12 volt if you want the gauge to dim when you turn on your headlights. Very easy to wire up.

Ok nice, makes sense. As you are paying for labour/tuning, I would just have the boost set to 23psi and forget the missile switch or any other method of turning it down to 18psi. That small a change in boost levels will have only a minor effect on how the car actually behaves in the real world. Power will go from what, 360kw down to 330kw? If the car was being used on the street, I dare say you couldn't tell the difference between the two boost settings. And paying $400 to have a near useless option, oof that's painful. When I'm talking about a CAN gauge, I'm talking about something like this - https://otakugarage.com.au/product/link-can-gauge-oled-52mm/ I would get a CAN gauge to monitor things like boost levels, AFR mixtures, fuel pressure, oil pressure, coolant pressure, oil temps, coolant temps, air temps, etc etc. Some of these things might not interest you now, however it might in future and you'll always have that option available to you. You can't make changes to the ECU though the gauge, you'd want a CAN keypad for that - https://linkecu.com/link-can-keypads-have-arrived/ The keypad will allow you to cycle through options that the tuner has setup in the ecu. For example, multiple boost levels, say 12psi, 18psi and 23psi. Having a range like that could be nice, however if it's a street car I can't ever see you turning the boost down lol. The keypad can also be used to say activate antilag or launch control etc. Ok the TLDR version - When the car is tuned, I would only have 1 boost setting which is, all the boost. I would use the ECU to control the boost with a 3 port MAC valve. I would buy a digital dash or CAN gauge and bin every other gauge currently in the car.

Sorry, I don't think I understand what you are trying to tell me. So your currently thinking about having a missile switch, with switch off = 18psi and switch on = roughly 21/23psi? But you also said you don't want to control the boost and will never adjust the boost levels, what do you want the missile switch to do? Ok, you would like to know how much boost your running on a digital display. I think this is a terrible reason to buy an eboost. The money would be better used being put towards a digital dash (or CAN gauge if you love your factory dash cluster). No need to worry about seeing a lower value on the gauge with this setup, the value on the dash/CAN gauge is the same value the ECU is seeing.

@IM-32-FK What is the lowest boost and highest boost setting you'd like to run? What is your reason for wanting to control the boost? (e.g. track driving and wanting to lower the power if it starts to rain) How often do you think you'll be adjusting the boost levels?

I wouldn't mind reading more rant, that was quite eye opening.

Oops double post.