Murray_Calavera

I did a bit of google-fu and couldn't find anything that would fit Not being a round hole and being wider then the average wiper/antenna delete kit is making things hard.

Hi all, I was hoping to get some ideas around deleting my antenna. I was getting rust around the antenna and I've never used the radio, so it's time to go! My current thoughts are, clean up the rust, then either get a fabricator to weld in a metal plate for a factory finish, or to turn up a 50mm or so plate and either use an o-ring or seam sealer and bolt it down (similar to the common rear wiper delete kits). Does anyone else have any ideas? I've attached a photo of the rust situation.

What fuel pump did you end up using? The old check valve would have been built into the pump and it sounds like your aftermarket fuel pump doesn't have a check valve. If your going to install a check valve, I'd install it as close to the fuel pump as possible.

When you get access to the ECU, post up screen shots of your fuel tables for: Base fuel map Prime pulse time table Post-start enrich table Cool temp correction table This will give us a good starting point. Also if you could log all the data for a cold start and upload it here that will be a massive help too. You won't break the engine mate, take small steps and you'll be fine. We can help you along the way

Ugh, bloody locked ECU's. Have you asked the tuner for the password? Seeing as you have a wideband, you could sort this out yourself very easily once you get access to the ECU.

Do you have a wideband o2 sensor?

Swap the current sandwich plate for the one with sensor ports on it?

You could eat off that!

I get why you asked the question though, plenty of cars don't need to pull the motor out to remove the sump. We are just lucky I guess lol.

Sorry mate, sump out is engine out.

It's an acquired taste for sure. I really like it but I think it's just because when I look at it, all I see is how much time and effort goes into it.

From the Hypergear website. G2 is happy with the stock ECU and stock fuel system. G2 high flow is capable of making up to 230rwkws. It is happy to hold factory boost, recommended for Rb20det engines and Rb25dets working with factory ecu and fuel system.

If your car is stock and you want to keep it stock, would you not just get another stock turbo if your current one has failed? If what your saying is you want an upgraded bolt on turbo that is so small it won't need any supporting mods or a tune, you might find G2 highflow is what you're after. See link below - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/nissan-rb25det-turbocharger-standard-high-flow-service/

If I was going to build something similar to this, I would want to have the oil control issues sorted. Replace the factory oil pump gears with something decent + oil restrictors + extended/baffled sump + breathers from sump to catch can. Unfortunately that build doesn't have any of these issues sorted. It's your money but I'd say do it properly and spend the extra $$ or just cheap out and do a cheeky refresh, new bearings, MLS gasket, throw in some head and main studs, whatever machining is required/oversized pistons etc. This isn't an exhaustive list but you get the idea.

When you said R33 I didn't think you'd be chasing a NEO. $3,500 is getting up there as far as machining costs go for a basic build. Have they given you an itemised invoice so you can see where that money is going? If your building this thing yourself, a basic refresh won't cost you $15k.

There are still good wrecker motors out there. I would expect that you'd be able to find something decent for around the $2,000 to $3,000 range. If you can do the swap yourself that would be the cheapest option. In a perfect world, you could then rebuild your old motor yourself without any pressure to get it sorted urgently.

100% shilling.

So do you have an oil temp sensor or not?

Do you have an oil temp sensor/ECU or a oil temp gauge? What sort of temps are you seeing at the moment?

Yes indeed, especially when translating an abstract idea it is miles ahead of Google Translate.

Just a FYI, coming from someone that can read Japanese, Google translate does a terrible job of translating Japanese.

Hey mate, I'm pretty sure I used the factory water line for the one your describing. The water line I made up goes from the turbo to the block and you can see it in the above photos. Let me know if there was something in particular you need more details on.

Polyetheramine.

You might also struggle to get a racing harness engineered. A few that I've spoken to want the harness to automatically retract the way the stock one does. If you're 100% set on doing this and keeping it legal, find an engineer to work with first and follow their guidance.

Get the diff and report back. You'll probably find the diff is enough to keep you happy once it's in.