Murray_Calavera

Yeah they look like they should fit no problem. I would think about getting something a little larger though, around 1000cc just to keep the option of E85 available in future. While those injectors can do 400hp on E85, they'll be close to their limit at that stage. Sorry can't say if those injectors are good or not, never heard of them. A set of Injector Dynamics ID1050x Fuel Injectors are only about $100 (USD) more then those ones and are a proven thing, I'd be looking at going with a set of ID1050x.

Yep, that's why I prefer to ask what size turbo and what their MPH is if they have taken it down the 1/4 mile.

Let us know what tyre size your running when you report back

I think we are talking about different things here. I'm talking about a 100% stock car, stock side mount, stock exhaust, stock boost levels, everything factory. And this is assumed, the car never sees the track (the car is 100% stock after all. I think it's almost a guarantee that someone that drives their Skyline on the track, the car would not be 100% stock). Now this 100% stock skyline that is not driven hard, is there still value in a Nistune or standalone? Also worth mentioning, I'm not saying I don't think it's worth getting an ecu/Nistune. At this point in time, I'm still on stock turbo & stock injectors. But I do have a haltech, IC7 dash, I/O expander box, haltech wideband, flex sensor and a dozen other sensors. I'm usually the first person to say get an ecu - but for a 100% stock street only car? What's the point?

If you do get an ecu for your stock-as-a-rock gtt, I'd be interested to see back to back dyno results. Even better if the tuner is happy to print you out a graph of the stock run with the new tune laid over the top. We are not talking about a car with bolt ons, running 10psi then getting an ecu. I really can't see a 100% stock car benefiting much from an ecu. The many other benefits of having an ecu, I'd be surprised if the owner of a 100% stock car cared about the features the ecu provides. I'm very happy to be proven wrong with data though and keen to see the results.

Unless your going to upgrade your turbo and fuel system, there isn't much point in 'tuning' your stock car. The factory have already done an amazing job tuning your stock ecu. If those small mods you mention do include chasing more power, then I'd look at getting a plug in ecu from either Haltech or Link.

Can't you just get this here? https://www.haltech.com/downloads/discontinued/ Am I missing something?

I haven't gotten around to it yet but I'll play with those numbers when I do and see if it's the same for 33 gtst.

It's a 4th gen Subaru Impreza. I'll eventually get to the bottom of it, when I do I'll post up the outcome.

I think the problem with cheaping out on the ecu is, you'll likely want more power in future. You've already said you had originally planned to keep it stock... I think once you're at 300kw, you'll be saying the same thing again. Maybe just 400kw and I'll be done... To future-proof yourself, I'd say look at something around the Haltech 2500 range.

My 2c This is only ever worth it if you skip the stock GTT step, e.g. put in a forged RB25, big highmount turbo, big aftermarket brakes, etc etc Install parts that if you had a stock GTT, you'd end up replacing anyway. Go big or buy a real GTT and leave it stock.

Something like this? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENMHNGTzR1OWRwYms/view

You could lower your base spring pressure to say, 0.5 bar and then use a 4 port mac valve and run a very progressive boost by gear. You could setup your traction control. You haven't said why it doesn't work, I'm guessing you need a non-powered wheel speed sensor. Stickier tyres as mentioned above. Actually I think this has all been said before, this thread and your recent tyre thread.

Yeah ok, you don't have much flexibility with such a high base spring pressure. Boost by gear won't really help with that What do you need to do to get the traction control up and running?

Yeah that's the plan at this stage, thought I'd pick everyone's brain here over night while waiting for tomorrow to arrive though.

I thought this as well, however all 4 calipers have been bled and the rear partition hasn't been touched at all. As each caliper was bled, only the front partition drained.

"G4" doesn't give us enough info, there are G4 Fury, G4 Xtreme, G4 Thunder... etc I'm trying to work out what is your base spring pressure and max boost pressure and if your ECU has traction control functionality. If you turn boost control off, how much boost does your turbo make?

Hi all, So I was doing a major service on the Mrs Subi today, I went to flush the brake fluid and found something interesting. The brake reservoir has a partition in it. I drained the front accessible partition, no fluid drained back in from the rear partition (the levels didn't average out). Next thought, perhaps front/rear brakes use front/rear partition in the reservoir. Nope. Put a litre of fluid through it starting with bleeding the back, nothing drained from the rear partition in the reservoir. I checked the Subi workshop manual, nothing is mentioned about the rear partition that I could see. I read the sections on the brake lines, master cylinder, ABS Sequence Control and VDC Sequence Control. The brakes bled up fine and work perfectly, but I really want to flush the rear partition that is filled with old fluid which is noticeably darker. I've uploaded a photo from the workshop manual to show the partitions. Edit: does anyone know what the rear partition is used for? If all the brake lines were completely flushed and it wasn't touched, when would the rear partition be used during normal operation?

Your base spring pressure is 1.2 bar? What is your max boost? What type of Link ECU do you have?

What is your gate spring pressure? Maybe try playing with boost by gear and pulling boost out of first gear to help you with traction. What ECU do you have, do you have traction control?

Hmm the Velo seats are ADR complaint which is a good starting point, if it's only the drivers seat I'd kindly explain to the officer that the rear seat can be accessed through the front passenger seat. Using GTR seats will depend on what you want them to do. I currently use GTR seats, have a half cage and harness for the track. I still can't wait to get fixed back seats in. If it was a street car only, GTR seats are amazing. Good compromise on support and comfort.

Are you happy to use fixed back seats? Going fixed back saves you a heap of cash and you can get it done for well under $2,000. A set of bride rails say $450 ish, a nice Velo seat say $1,100 with plenty of beer money to spare. Fixed back seats can be comfy too, there are shit fixed back and nice fixed back, you'll just need to see what works for you.

You could start here - https://www.nittotire.com/competition-tires/ Or here - https://www.federaltire.com/en/products_detail.php?class=Federal-Motorsports&products_detail_sn=3 Or if you have $$$, here - https://www.racedivision.com.au/products/yokohama-advan-a050-motorsport-tyre?variant=22653045112917

Maybe consider a 2nd set of wheels that run semi slicks. Bust them out for when you want some grip. Trying to tame 500hp with street tyres is asking a bit much.

haha fair call. Thought it might be a neater solution then moving the heater controls and installing gauges. You can display anything you want on the dash and have multiple displays to cycle through etc Do you think the display itself is hideous? or the layout on the display? If its the latter you can change the colours to anything you want and there are different types of display layouts as well.