Roy

Engine is meant to have new GTR valve springs. No signs that there is anything wrong with the engine at the moment, Seems all setup related. Not really a problem...just a combo not really working well together....which is to be expected when you throw 500cc at a 2L setup. I am with you...the only thing that helps with the disdain I have for this motor is that its cheap and looks like an RB20, so is 2/3 the recipe of an RB20

"I would do it again"..."but I am sorry and apologised to the team and meant it" Its good to have someone to hate in sport. Thanks Seb “Had I understood [the coded Multi 21 message] and had I thought about it, reflected on it, thought what the team wanted to do, to leave Mark in first place and me finishing second. I think I would have thought about it and I would probably have done the same thing. He didn’t deserve it. “There is quite a conflict, because on the one hand I am the kind of guy who respects team decisions and the other hand, probably Mark is not the one who deserved it at the time.” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5rxYjk_eFE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hikMrZwojs

The sh1t coming out of Vettels mouth the last 24 hours. He is upping the ante and assuming the Schuey crown. Seems the nice guy mask has been dropped and Horner and co's reaction or lack of reaction has empowered him. LOL, game on. $100 that Webz and him clash at least twice more before year is out

I doubt a 6 throttle setup would make any different to spool and response. Throttle response would be sharpened but i doubt its going to make any significant difference to where the turbo spools. If you run the std RB25 inlet then I can see it adding lay even it if does sharpen throttle response. I have a Blitz adaptor kit which I plan on using but no way I am putting that on and testing differences. That will be going on my other motor and its going to be very different so will never truly know. But my engine builder has put 26 internals into a few RB25s as he sees that as a better street setup than going to RB26 mostly due to the NVCS and the long runners of the std RB25 plenum. That all said, squeezing that air into an 8cm housing makes a difference...how big I dont know. Will throw up the graph of the 1/2-2/3 tune to see how it looked. It was way more responsive than a GT-RS on an RB25etc

Not meaning to be cryptic other than the fact that I now swim in muddy waters with a farking RB25 The 20G (Will refer to it as that) is the same old turbo I have run since 2003. It is a 55/65mm 12 blade turbine. It is running the 12cm housing The 73HTA (Will refer to it as that) is a little bit custom. It runs a FP 73 HTA compressor and a newer 11 blade version 55/65mm turbone. I am going to swap the 20G 12 cm housing onto this turbo so this is going to be a good bacl to back test The T67-25G runs a 10cm and is all as Trust shipped it. Ditto my TD06H-25G (Will refer to it as the 25G) with 10cm. That means the T67 has a 54/61mm 11 blade turbine and the 25G has the largest turbine at 58.8/67.2 12 blade turbine I am hoping the 73HTA turbo gives me better than T67 response and the same, if not more power. Ultimately thats what I am hoping. It is being back to backed with the 20G just to understand the differences between all the turbos and its a relatively easy bolt off-on proposition. I expect the T67 is the fall back option if the 73HTA doesnt work out, even if lack of performance can be put down to the 12cm housing. Posting in this thread as Kando do so many Mistu based turbos seemed the best place to compare the results of Mitsu based turbo combinations

Thats the trick...std manifold. They do mess with performance rather badly. I know people rate them and say they work...but from a performance standpoint jn my view they dont work But understand the many other reasons why you may run a std manifold So I suspect a car with an aftermarket exhaust manifold on E85 could live with an 8cm housing longer then a car running the std manifold. I think the other catch is I dont think the backl pressure and heat woudl allow a 98 setup to work well either.

Would love to be down there kickign tyres and buying cement mixers for everybody! Enjoy you lucky buggers!

Horner is almost a big a flog as Vettel. Come on Mark...dig deep. You have to think Webber is goo for a podium but get the feeling tis is going to be very tight with Lotus, Fezz, RBR and Merc.

Nope. Trust 3 bolt

LOL...really? Something very different between our setups then. I was hitting 18psi at 3,200rpm or something stupid and show was over with the thing losing its pull over 6,500rpm. It was mega grunty with the 8cm housing. And that was with cams at 0 and only a 2/3 tune. I like the way the 12cm drives but on a very rough tune with no ignition the 12cm housing has generally added 800-1,000rpm to response. Would be far easier and nicer to drive with the way it delivers its power. Will see if we get any of theloss in response back with the changes we made today....the car got pulled off the dyno due to another car needing some urgent work. Will keep looking for a 10cm housing but think the T67 will go on before a find the right sized housing for the 20G. That will be the real test as I am pretty sure we have maxed out the compressor on the 20G so the question is will the billet wheel flow more with the TD06-12cm vs the T67-25G 10cm . That will be the real interesting test. Smaller, lower flowing turbine with a 78mm cast compressor wheel VS a larger higher flowing turbine with a lighter, smaller billet 73mm compressor with the larger 12cm housing. I would go straight for the proven 10cm if I had one so ...no other choice then to waste tuners dyno time with my games

LOL, You would be surprised that its not really that many. And the mods I have done to my car in total only add up to maybe 3 sets of semis. Mods are hopefully not consumables. Over 2k for tyres is scary. So...if anyone wants a set of 295/35/18 AO50 soft compunds that have only done two sessions at Superlap last year on an EVO then hit me up. I was going to try and squeeze them onto my car but the cost of new rims etc means I dont care to do it anymore

I must admist I was having long , close looks at your car. I really like how you have done htings. I think there is a definite thinking to how to build a car when you are a frustrated engineer that wants to drive and build cars for a living Not always the easy way, or the quick way OR the the cheap way....but he cool way

The phonecall I just got from Racepace said they doubt the box will make it through Phillip Island. Mostly due to the twin plate Exedy it now has in front if it....its not the power as RB25s are poop and dont seem to want to make any !

Ok, So have wasted time and money thinking about the RB25 and 20G setup and leaning on it for all its worth. I want to be sure that walking away from what has been a champion turbo is the right thing to do. Also will give a good baseline for other setups being trialled So by the end of the day will be interesting to compare: RB20 RB25 TD06-20G. 8cm 12cm Cams Std 256/8.5 Tomei Fuel E85 E85 Both engines run the same inlet and exhaust manifolds. As it is an R32 RB25 it does not have NVCS will be interesting if the better breathing hot side, bigger cams and bigger engine will result in more power then I was making on the RB20

If the RB20 didnt split that heater hose then i would never have put this engine in. This was the "too cheap to pass up in case I got EPA'd engine" that I hoped would never get used. Anyway. So after a Saturday of wasting Racepaces dyno time with fiddling with the 20G and 12cm housing...we are pretty sure we have run out ofcompressor but simply couldnt get thet thing to hold boost. So knowing the Hypergate only had a piss weak 11 psi spring I have grabbed 3 more springs and should be able to find a good combo to get the gate to hold about 19psi...and us bleed what we want from there. So cam gears are in. Tomei 256/8.5mm cams are in. 12cm housing on. 19psi springs in the gate and she is rolling onto the dyno still with the 20G as we speak. Plan is to get a good baseline for the 20G to back to back with the T67 and 73HTA. All this testing is a ball ache, but the engineer in me loves it

Re the Hypertune swirpot Risking posted. I am 99% sure it works fine and there is absolutely F. all difference but technically you shoud try (space permitting) to have the inlet tangent to the circumference of the swirl pot about half way up. You should then run the outlet from the centreline of the swirl pot from a lower point then the inlet. Ideally the bottom but not going to happen on an RB so lower is generally acceptable.

The 265s are ok on 9" wheels. They sit nicer on 9.5 but fine on 9". I was kind of hoping that the 295s could squeeze on a 9.5.Have ou got any pics of the "bulge city" Hopefully the hards last 300-400 track days

So I have slapped on some hard compund Hankook Ventus TD Z221 for Phillip Island. I also have a set of 295/35/18 AO50s but think I am in for all sorts of trouble to get them to fit my car. Has anyone fitted the 295 AO50s onto a 9.5" rim ? Or do they really need a 10" rim?

Looks like you got to it just in time. Would be a very cool daily

Out of interest, I appreciate that no two engines are alike but any thoughts on the Tomei 2.8L kit vs Step 0 or Step 1 HKS Kits?

More expensive/fast tyres that I cant afford. Unless they are bringing out used edition that are half the price $100 slicks for the win

I never noticed a huge difference when I was changing cooler piping and didnt run a BOV with my bush bearing turbo that was borderline too big for a 2L. I think the trick is really how it is fuelled/tuned as the momentary rich/fouing fuel levels tend to cause the thing to bog down more then a drop in shaft speed. But like all things its probably a number of small compounding causes that ends up in a measurable drop in ideal performance.

I think just line everything up at TDC and reference the std markings in the block and timing backing plate etc. Belts can skip a tooth and flop around the crank pulley and when you tensio it back up be a way off where the old markings were. Best go on the block markings and not care about the belt

The compressor wheel is not a positive displacement pump. Its a centrifugal pump...air can pass through its tolerances. When idle a positive displacement pump generally acts as a check valve. A centrifugal pump can be blown through. A twin screw supercharger is a positive displacement pump. An engine is a positive displacement pump when there is no combustion as the turning wheels spin the crank that displaces fixed volumes of air

Yep...and then there is the KE in the wheels.