KiwiRS4T

If you are fitting an N1 pump and like to sit on the limiter read at least the last third of this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?&hl=sk+oil+control

So how many breathers does your rocker cover have? 2 pipes going into a catch can and one into the turbo inlet? You need your cam covers to vent to the catch can which needs some sort of baffling and then the catch can should vent to the turbo inlet. Also maybe do a compression and/or leakdown test if you are worried about the state of your engine.

If you decide to go the R33 GTR diff (4.1) let me know as I am after a 3.545 diff. Do you really want a 2wd GTR? There are plenty of AWD GTRs with dry sumps.

Do you have a manual or auto?

If Microtech have tested your ecu and can't find a fault sounds like you need a good dyno operator. it could be something else or maybe the ecu is failing under load conditions that can't be replicated on the test bench.

Don't knoiw how your Greddy works but I use the Link plus a Mac valve to control boost. It uses the air temp sensor and map sensor and is probably much more programmable than a stand alone boost controller. I would think your Haltech would do the same. You just have to buy a Mac Valve and then you can sell your boost controller so $$ in your pocket.

Ticket from a public weighbridge? Letter from a Nissan Dealer Do you have access to a workshop manual (hard copy or on-line)?

Forget the "head drain" - read the last 10 or so pages (or the whole thread if you have time to kill) of the oil control thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?&hl=sk+oil+control

But they're mostly massive power engines destined for the drag strip rather than street or track.

ECU looks interesting. But no need to change intake manifold to make 400awkw

Ideally you should borrow or hire a tool to put a proper bead on the end of each pipe.

Yep get a Nistune or Link, bigger turbo, injectors, afm if necessary, fmic, fuel pump, exhaust and a good tune. If you want an RB30 later you can transfer the head and all the other bits.

Yes the LEDs on my Display Link can be programmed for a shift light so the Link/Vipec software does have that capability.

Why do you need to remove the manifold to remove the O2 sensor? Is it very hard to reach? Normally you would just unscrew the old sensor and throw it away (unless you have recently renewed it) and then screw in the new wideband sensor. There should be no reason to revert to the old sensor as the wideband sensor generally has the ability to also provide a narrowband signal if you need it for some reason. But if you have to remove the manifold then put the new bung in a place where it can be reached without having to remove the manifold and just plug up the old bung.

Its a damper to control pulsations in fuel pressure as the injectors open and close. Quote: Without an FPD the fuel pressure will fluctuate (at a frequency higher than your fuel pressure gauge is capable of displaying). If the fuel pressure is fluctuating everytime the injectors open and close then they are not metering fuel as accurately as they could be. But others say I've binned mine and the car runs fine. I've still got mine and my car runs fine too. Do you need one? No idea!

I have a second hand R33 heater core for my S1 Stagea which should fit any C34 Stagea and probably a number of Skylines as well. I was going to fit it using this excellent tutorial: http://www.skylinesa...he-dash-at-all/ but after pressure testing the cooling system I found there was nothing wrong with it and the water under my carpet was the result of a blocked drain from my air cond. Price AU$180 includes postage to any street address in Australia or New Zealand. It appears to be in good condition (brown stuff in pic is old foam not rust). O/A dimensions are 185 x 193 x 37mm core 194 x 150 x 25mm.

You've done all the hard work. Just flatten out the cardboard and draw around it ...cut out the shapes and then bend!

I have a second hand R33 heater core for my S1 Stagea which should fit any C34 Stagea and probably a number of Skylines as well. I was going to fit it using this excellent tutorial: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/280174-removal-replacement-of-heater-core-skyline-the-right-way-without-removing-the-dash-at-all/ but after pressure testing the cooling system I found there was nothing wrong with it and the water under my carpet was the result of a blocked drain from my air cond. Price AU$180 includes postage to any street address in Australia or New Zealand. O/A dimensions are 185 x 193 x 37mm core 194 x 150 x 25mm.

My Sinco manifold was custom made for me and cost about $400 more than the basic 6boost. Its about 3 years old and as well as being my daily I do about 6 -10 track days a year and it has been flawless. Mike from Sinco makes manifolds for a lot of drift cars, drag cars and circuit racers as well as street and show cars so his designs are well tested and proven on the track as well as on the dyno.

That's a very impressive time and 2wd as well! I'm afraid I haven't come across that problem yet but as above Robbie from Rips will have all the answers.

A while since I did some metalwork but I think for soft metals such as aluminium you need coarse not fine teeth. This is a nibbler - they are quite expensive or you can (like I did) get a cheap attachment that goes in an electric drill from a store such as Bunnings: http://www.makita.co.nz/products/detail.lsd?item=JN1601&-session=Makita:7694CC8C02dc220C0EsKHxACAECB

Please be sure to report how you get on - I want to put an R34 diff in an R33 front sump.

Rips does his own awd adapter for the Powerglide - holding over 1000 awkw at least on his megawot build (formerly in a Stagea now in a GTR in the UK)

Yep you can get quite thin aluminium which is easy to bend and cut with some tinsnips or a nibbler if you have or can borrow one.

Yes cardboard is flammable. Aluminium would be fine. Some people use Perspex which you can bend with a heat gun. Or you could use one of your deflectors with the stock airbox and maybe run some extra air into the airbox from behind the headlight.