Kinkstaah

Thank you for posting a pic of Sparco R100's - I was thinking of putting those in. What rails did you use? There's an ebay mob selling a kit, but I never got that far. I wanted the black leather ones 😛 How do they work/fit/comfort wise? Looks like enough clearance.

Thankyou for that last update, I went measuring based off your previous post (cause it looks great) and I was thinking the differential between the fronts and rears was a bit weird for it to fit so nicely. Looks awesome dude

Pretty much all of them have thermostatic plates for above 80C or so (which is technically a bit low) If you actually get your oil on the street above 120C then a bigger concern is not dying/going to jail. LS yes RB no Get a gauge to find out how hot your oil is/how hot it gets before buying something to address an issue which may or may not exist. Generally speaking, if you want an oil cooler you want it for the track, so fit the biggest one you can physically fit and move everything else out the way to fit it. Any other use generally requires no oil cooling.

If you haven't already, def throw this on FB/Carsales. I suspect 25 is on the low side and if hype is real, could get much more. could

The thing is, the air temp sensor gets hot in traffic. Upwards of 70C. It took a good 15-20 minutes of highway cruising (!) to get it back down to about 35C. This is on a 25C day. The stock ECU absolutely will pull fuel, timing, and knock. The air actually entering the engine is not 70C. Map sensored cars really soak bad, at least they think they are soaking bad. v8 cars are way easier to manage traction that turbo cars. You won't need a throttle stop. I need way less traction control intervention with the v8 than I ever did in any of the turbo setups.

You are right though, the rear end of current mercs with its downward sloping general depresso is the most old man design element I've seen recently.

Another "Because I had issues" Do you have a means of logging your IAT after doing that? Heatsoak on the sensor is a big problem with OTR's, yet they also add power. In my application it wasn't really an option and I had to buy a faster reacting IAT sensor from the USA as the GM one takes minutes to cool down to the air temp it's actually sensing.

That is very nice indeed. I hope it doesn't need to be removed. That would be sucky.

Easier to just put a motor in? https://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php/ls1-gen-iii-packages-mainmenu-21/235-ls1-383-efi-long-engine-with-cnc-heads-562-hp 383 means less cam, but you have an auto anyway. Why not 6.3L? No intake problems. Save yourself a few thousand too. Not the only places that will build up a motor too. Quite a few joints around that will just supply you with a built ready to go LS1 with heads/cam/stroker that you can throw in and away you go. Def cheaper than doing it incrementally with cam, then heads, then intake, or boost etc. Boost is always going to be less reliable. And you have things like joiners, belt, IAT problems, fitment issues and casual illegal extra items in the engine bay. I've pretty much sworn off ever going boost for those reasons. That said... pretty different application!

You know you can buy a crate built motor that makes 350kw for less than that, yeah? And it's N/A?

Did the ADR approve the seats and the rails? (i.e were they a factory option?) If not, illegal because seats not officially tested in a crash etc.

Mate has a centrifugal charger with an atmo bov. Vrrrrr -TSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. Sound like real old school public transport. I.e a steam train.

I would also like an answer to this. All I ever heard was "Yeah no good idea because its an OVERDRIVE GEARRR" but I don't actually know why. Also hardly any other option. Drive on a track that maxxes out at 200kmh? 3rd seems to be the first gear to go in Skyline boxes for some reason. I don't remember anyone ever exploding 5th due to it being overdriven but maybe someone will chip in.

That sounds about right for that power at that track. (allowing for some accuracy with the speedo in general).

I can't remember. Did you put a cam in yet? Otherwise there's other considerations to be made for boost. You can't just boost a standard LS to 370kw, you need springs and pushrods and other head.. stuff, to make it actually work and not be a floaty mess. Centrifugal charger is the simplest, best way to go if you can retain your accessories. Less of an issue as you don't want track work, but running a FMIC and keeping intake charge down is cool and a major advantage of them. People say "lol but then you have nothing down low" but you have a v8. It has plenty down low.

Cooler? Nothing - Unless your IAT actually changes as a result of it. I've seen people spend big on an intercooler for an 0kw difference. IWG to EWG will make a considerable difference as this actually changes boost. Presumably though if you're already MAP based going from say 16PSI IWG to 16 PSI EWG won't change much, you're more likely to notice that your 16PSI is actually holding rock solid to 7500RPM whereas it may not if 16PSI was your target on an IWG (i.e as hard as you could max it out). You may notice something by holding boost better. Most people go EWG when they cant hit their desired target with IWG.

Do you have a 2nd SR20? Because you did say 'reliable' and 300kw, and 200k on it. The smart answer is be happy with the T28 and make 200kw or thereabouts and enjoy it. There's so many options for all of those categories and any of them will work. I.e Injectors: Any of them bosch based, thousands to choose from Fuel Pump: Anything Walbro (525 or whatever they are up to) - Make sure your wiring is up to the task, it will need upgrades. Cooling: Any FMIC will work of any decent brand. Some fabricators can avoid cutting up your battery tray and going through the kframe instead. Worth asking. Coil pack: R35 conversion kits are all the rage. Yaris coils less so. Could do new OEM (cheap) or Splitfires (OEM). Just get used to misfires on a SR20 basically. Stock gearbox? Will it take 300kw - I know the S15 6 speed doesn't - I don't know about the S14. RB25 gearbox is common upgrade. 370z CD009 boxes as well. Turbo - G25 550 if you really only want 300kw. Go external gate. Manifold? Anything that suits that. Surely 6 boost has something. Surely Full Race has something if you truly don't mind spending extra. Smaller is better because lines and clearances to them not melting will make you sad otherwise. ECU - Anything that the tuner can tune. Tune it yourself I say, because no tuner gets everything 100% - Noone pays the hours to get everything perfect. Why do you want 300kw? Have you done 100 track days and want to knock 1-2s off by upping the power? No? Just want clout somewhere? Cheapest way is to not mod a car and photoshop up a dyno graph. Will be happier. You won't get much change from 20K for this. And then your engine will explode. Sell the S14 while COVID Prices are high, this is the smart answer if you want a fast, well performing, reliable car - The cash the sale gets you is the fastest and easiest way to get it.

Re: 4k NZD GT (if actually real, I suspect there's hidden costs here that will come out to very similar total costs of GT's in your area...) Thing is, if you had all the parts, all the know how, and all the experience to do an engine swap, you'd definitely pay the 20-25k NZD and get the GTT. Parts availability and Prices are shit now. What's your time worth, too? Be better to buy that cheap GT then put something else in it entirely. Like a LS. Then you could also just buy my LS converted car, and save money. The sensible options have been laid out for ages, from years of people exploring these avenues with experience Listen to them lol Or don't, and make the same mistakes they/I did.

Are you sure you don't want to go manual? If you do, I have a fresh T56 with 6 neutrals, all ready to go after my track day today!

Ye, this is also a symptom of having combustion gases (not turbo boost, but still sorta kinda boost in a way) in your coolant. Typically through a gasket but in my case it was through the block 😮 I recently bought a rad cap funnel kit and oh man they are great. Should have been the first tool I ever bought.

I think with 2020 prices (demanded, not sure if sold) you'd be better off buying a new mustang or something 😛 I doubt nowadays anyone savvy would be letting go of any of the skylines (let alone GTR's) for anything under 40k it seems.

All of the advice above is valid. Consider a 1 way diff instead of a 1.5 way if you're shopping Nismo. I had a rare working viscous center and honestly it was nothing but a downgrade to go a mechanical diff. Note: Rare working VLSD, and I suspected it would stop working plenty fast. 300kw and full throttle in 1st/2nd gear is just not a thing in a Skyline on road tyres. You must learn to threshhold accelerate 😛 You can make it 'better' (bushings, diffs, tyres, turbo choice/how boost gets ramped in) but it'll never be fully eliminated. The best answer for this is boost by gear which is an option on most modern ECU's if you want to just plant your foot in any gear with no consequences 😛

Or the brakes! But generally yes the bars at either end affect how the pedals rotate the car 😛

Due to my lovely partner working for Ultratune, she called in a favour at Bob Jane (after I went there incognito and they couldnt help me, though they tried) They then offered to smash sockets for $50, then found a 7 sided 17mm socket which they gave to her to loan out to me for free. This took many many hours of not quite fitting, attempting to smash sockets on again, but we eventually got it settled like this. Behold our special tool Yes, the power of a cut up hose clamp and sticky tape made it get 'stuck' enough to break the nuts loose and now my wheels are again free. I will be very happy to pull them off again soon to swap the fronts and rears and put in some track day brake pads where my car will definitely not break and I will have a fantastic, happy day.

This is a 1 way 😛 Good example though! 😛 but yes when selecting a diff.. "1 way" or "1.5 way" or "2 way" is very much like "Stage 1 turbo". There's not really enough information there.