sweefu

Another vote for should be fine. I'd be curious to know why it's sitting like that though, those could be the wrong diameter springs for your coilover.

Is that what you look for in a tyre?

I haven't heard of the Meister coilovers but HSD are fairly tried and tested. In my experience HSD have a good build quality and all spare parts are available locally/separately, so you know there is good support. Even if a damper wears out you can replace that too (~$180ea). My only problem with HSD is they didn't provide a mount for the ABS line on my S14 front coilovers, this could have been easily added but they didn't. HSD would be my pick in the low budget coilover category.

ROH Modenas - awesome wheels mate. Good luck with the sale!

Those coilovers have base height adjustment, so I think the OP was trying to undo the lower locking collar, allowing him to screw the entire shock body down lower into the bottom foot to change the ride height.

Another vote for yes.

Soaking it in WD40 will help but they look very clean and 4000km is nothing. Are you sure you're pulling it the right way?

I'm a bit unsure about the lightweight shockproof gear oil Can anyone confirm if it's a GL4 or GL5 specification lube? I've been told GL5 oils are bad for RB25 (or similar) gearboxes because GL5 additives are bad for the brass synchro's, it can cause the teeth to wear prematurely I don't know how much truth there is in this, but I've switched from the LWSP to MT-90 (GL4) to see if there is any difference. I ran LWSP in two of my previous gearboxes, my most recent gearbox was an RB25 and the dog teeth/synchro teeth wore before anything else, that box had LWSP in it (previous owner and I both used LWSP in it) Anyway, can anyone else shed some light on this?

I swear my RB20 box only took around 2 (?) litres. But as GTSBoy said, no where else for it to go unless it's pissing out somewhere.

Maybe because of how well it sticks to stuff. I had a patch of lightweight shockproof stick to my chassis rail for about 8 months before it finally wore off. Having said that, right now I am running a mix of 75% MT90 / 25% lightweight shockproof in my gearbox without any issues. I'm going to use Amsoil next time so will update with any problems (if any) from mixing.

Don't go to Bunnings, go to a bolt shop.

Pretty sure they are all M10x1.25, should be a standard metric fine thread M10 bolt. I've got the info saved on my computer somewhere, I'll have a look around and post again if I can confirm.

Looks great man, I love R33 GTS-T builds. Will be following closely. What sort of events will you use the car for?

It might be a bit more of a gap than you'd like but it will be fine.

Yep, same.

My bad! I didn't read very carefully.

R33 uses BM44, from memory the Z32 uses BM44 also but I can't confirm if the bias would be the same or not.

Bump

I pay $50 to machine a flywheel too, I haven't had rotors done before but my brother was charged $20 - $30 ea from memory.

$7 to machine rotors? Madness!

Barrel Bros do the best work, mate they look killer!

Did you go to the Port Melbourne (or similar area) store? I was at Costco two weeks ago and they told me they were discontinued.

No wiring

Bump, very thick castor rods here, as new!

Hey guys, few things for sale 1. KTS Adjustable Pillow Ball Castor Rods. I bought these from Japan in December and used them for 1 track event only, they were then removed and stored in my garage. They are in as new condition, the plastic wrapping was only just removed to take pictures today. They are very thick and beefy units, nice and strong. The rose joints move very freely and are as new. Fit R33/R34/S14/S15 and probably others too, $200. 2. Steering wheel boss kit to suit R32/S13/R31 non-hicas, unsure what else it might fit. Comes with near new class 12.9 high tensile bolts. $30 3. 4x114.3 wheel spacers. 15mm bolt on (1 pair hubcentric, other pair not) all require new studs/nuts. $20 each pair Happy to post anything, just send me a message for a postage quote. Cheers.