GTSBoy

No, I think you miss the point of what I said. It's the same engine. The clutch manufacturer knows what engine they're making the clutch for. They therefore know the likley characteristic rev/torque/power characteristic of the engine. A stock engine will to X torque at Y rpm and make Z power out of it. Make mods to it so that X increases and Y changes and you get a different Z.....and the clutch manufacturer can still choose to rate that clutch at the new Z number because it is likely tied very closely to the new value of X. They're not talking about "here's a clutch from a 20L diesel engine that can handle 300HP and 3000ft-lb, it is therefore rated to 300HP on a Honda K20. Because that woudl be silly. The opposite would also be silly with the K20 clucth on the diesel. But if they say, here's a stock clutch for an RB25 and it can handle ~350 HP, and here's a better clutch for an RB25 and it can handle 700HP, then there's a really fair bet that the better one can handle about double the torque.

So, either the knock sensor(s) is/are shagged, or there is a metric f**kton of mechanical noise at one end of the engine.

Fixed that for you.

Wiring problems.

Time and effort spent should be put into the best engine possible. 304 is not that. Nothing really "wrong" with it, except that it is hugely less good than a big LS.

No, because the original would be too small for either rotor. It is possible to bend the cover back away rather than cutting it (that's what I did to put 296 and them 310mm rotors on a 280mm car). The offset change on the disc itself with the Z33 rotor might mean that you don't need to do anything. I can't remember which way the disc moves, but if it moves outward then there's your magic.

I posted in your other thread. I did it many years ago. It is trivial and it works.

As Rusty said - it was originally R12. If it hasn't been converted to R134a, then that's what it will be. But if it has been converted to R134a, the fridge mechanic will be able to tell, because you have to put the right valve converters on the Schaeders and you MUST by law put stickers on in the engine bay advising the change.

RB25DE box is same box as RB20DET. So cable speedo drive or electronic senders will cross-pollinate between them. The 35DET box is a completely different box, so the speedo sender will not work with the skinny boxes. As Robbo suggested, the 4cylinder box's speedo drive should be same enough with the Rb skinny boxes, but there's no guarantee that the output speed will be correct. It might be, but I don't know for sure. Keep in mind that the electronic speedo sender in the box sends an AC signal to the dash. The dash converts that into a ~5V PWM square wave signal for the ECU. So all 3 parts have to be correct to get everything working perfectly. Sometimes near enough will be near enough.

Just put them on the same LSAs as any other 264° cam, or choose an LSA halfway between the typical 256° and 272° cams' specs. Tighten or widen the LSA by a degree or two depending on how you want the engine to work.

That's perplexing - that he couldn't/didn't find anyone who wanted to continue the business. It's not like there's a dozen competitors in Australia.

Yes. The rotor ends up in a different place relative to the hub face (and the caliper! if you try to cross Z33 rotors with GTR calipers.)

I might have to crack the sads over that.

No. GT-T rotors are only 310mm diameter. GTR Brembo rotors are 324mm diameter. You cannot put a GTR Brembo on a 310mm rotor. Just repetition for repetition's sake. But.....GTR Brembo rotors aren't thicker. They're all 30mm. Only the 296mm GTR rotors are 32mm. Right?

Ammeter is a function for measuring current on your typical multimeter, which can be had for ~$10 off eBay or your local Jaycar equivalent. Find the fuse that runs the tracker. Remove the fuse, put the ammeter across the terminals where the fuse was. Now you're in the circuit and can measure the current it's pulling.

I would have said Century. If it's only a month old then it should be fine, unless you have somehow managed to drain it flat too badly too many times already and killed it. Why don't you do the current drain test?

While that's true in general - on a particular engine, retaining the same mode of induction (ie turbo(s)), then the relationship between torque revs and power remains fairly constant. More power = more torque at about the same rpm.

No.

Logical place to start would be to consider the button to be broken. Nothing lasts forever.

Although - why anybody would want Poncams when Kelfords and Camtech exist is probably the bigger question.

There used to be 264/264/8.5 cams for the RB25. They were definitely a thing. I don't know if they are still current or not.

First point - you know you're wasting time and money, right? There will be no benefit from this except to make the horrible dak-dak noises louder. Second point - what year of Impreza? They are not all the same across the 25 year history. Show a photo of the engine bay in question? Third point - Here's a photo of a pod in an Impreza engine bay, as taken from a google search for same. The box between the pod and the intake pipe is the AFM on that model. Fourth point - Here's a photo of a probably more recent dak-dak. Note that you cannot see any AFM. I think they have it integrated into the airbox on these. If yours is like this, it might be a bit of trouble to replace the airbox and relocate the AFM, which might not want to be separated. I don't know - I had a 2010 Forester for many years and never lifted the bonnet, so I wouldn't know where the AFM was.

The answers to at least one of your questions will depend on why you want to replace the headlights. What is wrong with them? f**ked lenses? Is the back of the housing OK?

Not necessarily "normal" behaviour. But there might be nothing "wrong" with the tracker. It's far more likely that your battery is crap and can't tolerate what would otherwise be a completely acceptable current drain. Put an ammeter in the power lead to the tracker. Report how much it's using.

That's sad. Any decent private workshop down here has at least one good scan tool.