GTSBoy

While I don't disagree (I actually agree completely, except perhaps for most R32s not having H4 globes!) - just adding the relays doesn't actually solve all problems. The original headlight switches are intended to have a certain amount of current flowing through them. This current does what is called "wetting" the contacts. That wetting action is a big enough arc as the contacts make and break to burn off some carbon, basically keeping the contacts clean enough to keep working. When you remove all that load and get the contacts to just switch a relay, the current being switched is no longer enough to wet the contacts and they can start to build carbon. It can actually be worse/more annoying than the high current too hot scenario that we try to solve with the relays. The answer is to understand what is happening and deal with it appropriately.

Kudos. $40.

I dunno man. You've already done what's needed to put a 30 based engine in. The damage is done, the pipework is set up. At your power level you're really going to feel the difference if you drop 10% capacity.

I would agree, and is the meaning of my first post in your other thread. But, further to what Murray said, I would append to his sentence "assuming that the timing values being discussed are correct, and there's no mechanical problem causing the ECU's angle to not be the same as the engine's angle".

Just search eBay for the location in your car you want to put them. ie, R32 climate led or R32 dash led, etc.

What build?

Listen, this shit is very simple. Step 1: #1 sparkplug out. Step 2: Engine to TDC firing on #1. You will have to convince yourself that both cam lobes are facing away from the cam followers on #1. Use a screwdriver down the sparkplug hole to find TDC. This is done by marking the screwdriver against some feature (the edge of the hole for example) while the piston is rising and close to TDC, then rotate past TDC until the mark is back in the same place. Note the engine position at the pulley timing marks for both. TDC is halfway in between. If TDC is not right bang smash on the TDC mark on the pulley - there's your first warning sign. Step 3: Now that you know that the engine is mechanically telling the truth about TDC, the next paranoid step is to make sure that the cam timing is not 1 or more teeth out on eaach/either cam. Timing cover comes off the engine. You will have to rotate the engine several times until the timing marks all line up at the same time. If you cannot every get them to line up, there's a significant warning sign. You simply can't get the ignition timing to make sense if the cam timing is not. Step 4: Throw the PFC in the bin. Sorry, got ahead of myself there. Um, Step 4: After all this, it is just a case of the usual stuff. Using a timing light (properly) to check idle timing against what the PFC says the engine angle is. "Properly" means disconnecting the TPS and triggering the timing light correctly. If the PFC says 15° but the engine says 5° on the pulley, then you have probably missed something in the earlier steps. Step 5: Throw the PF ....ah nearly did it again. Step 5: Find a better tuner. A good tuner is not necessarily a good mechanic. There is no such thing as a "good tuner" if they are not also a good mechanic when you are trying to solve this sort of problem. Also, trying to fix this sort of shit while the car is strapped to the dyno is a dumbness, because it costs a lot more to fix strapped on a dyno than it costs to fix it on the other side of the workshop.

So, the top one looks like one of the original globes and the bottom one looks like one of the generic LEDs you can buy to put into these things off eBay.

Name a time when that hasn't been true.

Yes. 1ms worth.

Shit brakes too, by the way. That generation of Sumitomo calipers are flexy. You can hear them creaking under heavy brake application.

That's what he said.

For a motor that will feel better everywhere in all usage models, a 30. Every time. The only way that it is let down compared to a 26 is that elastic need for revs and the extra little buzz you get from running to 11ty rpm. But I'd rather more torque and power everywhere. Put the 26 block in the shed for later purity restoration. Although....in a 32, I am against the shitty mods you have to do to squeeze a 30 into the engine bay.

Yes. But traction arms is a silly name.

The big issue I have is when someone says "HP" I have no idea whether they mean at the engine, at the hubs, at the tyre/rollers or otherwise. And often when I try to find out, the response is "what do you mean?" But the beauty of the conversion between HP and kW is that it is 3/4 or 4/3, depending on which way you're going, which is dead easy. And if you're willing to accept a standard 25% roller dyno loss, there's another 3/4 or 4/3 straight up. So in that situation (and that situation only!) 150HP at the tyre is very close to 150kw at the engine.

Nice Tri-Y extractors, 3" cat, 2.5" pipe with a centre-offset muffler under the floor and a nice big 2.5 oval muffler at the rear. Same recipe as every other NA straight 6 engine.

PS is literally (enough) the initials of horse power in German. But it is only the automotive standards organisations that cling to PS (and all the French and Italian equivalents) in reporting automotive engine power. You can bet you're last Pfennig that the German engineers are all thinking in Watts and the SI multiples thereof. They just convert to PS as the document goes out the door.

You used to be able to buy these as plastic clip on additions for standard arms about 30 years ago, then (or possibly before) they started turning up on OEM arms as little deflectors to increase the normal force of the wiper blade on the glass. Intended to stop chatter. This was all with old style conventional multi-element spring type wiper bodies. The deflectors are purely aerodynamic devices for producing force. Not for snow, not for looks (because they look like shit because they make the wiper appear bigger). The new Bosch aerotwin style is a completely better mechanism for getting the wiper to press onto the glass and has the "aero" part baked into the shape of the whole blade body.

Enkei RPF (ie, RPF01) are not forged, but are very light and quite strong - largely because very top end non-forged manufacturing techniques and large number of spokes. Not outrageously expensive either.

Look standard to me.

CO contact cleaner, not WD40. Then if you want to lube it you need some dielectric grease to smear on the contacts to try to help stop them arcing and building carbon.

You can do anything. But the main question is "why?" Just get your local exhaust shop to build you a 2.5" system with decent mufflers. f**k that Jap exhaust shit up the arse.

No. The internet forums are wrong. If you put camber arms on the rear, you need to put the rear radius arms on too (they are NOT called traction arms!). If you do not, you will be wildly changing the bump steer curve when you change the length of the camber arm. The car will behave like shit. Correctly setting the length of the radius arm is not trivial though. You WILL need the help of a good suspension specialist, unless you are capable of making and using a bump steer gauge of your own. I've done it. It burns about 20 hours to get it right.

Speed signal from speed sensor in RB25DET gearbox. Speed signal goes to R33 speedo. R33 speedo converts that into speed signal that ECU understands and puts it out onto the wire going to the ECU. It's all in the workshop manual.

Are there people who actually care about the original paint colour of f**king Skylines? Jeezus titty f**king christ! It's a 20 year old dirty Datto. It doesn't matter what colour it is. FFS!