GTSBoy

You need, at least; Knuckles/uprights, lower control arms, upper control arms, traction rods, dampers, springs, hubs, brakes, subframe to chassis bushes, diff bushes, handbrake cables, hydraulic brake lines, upper and lower balljoints, wheel bearings, any bushes that don't come with whatever arms you buy. You quite possibly need all the fasterners for subframe to chassis, diff to subframe, arms to subframe, brakes to uprights. You can buy aftermarket arms, brakes, bushes etc, but you will need original parts for a lot of the above list. You probably should just buy a complete subframe, with suspension arms etc, to make sure you can get your hands on all the things that you don't have that you probably can't easily get individually.

So you don't even have hubs? Well, the list is easy. You need everything that you can't see. Earth straps are exactly what they sound like. Braided wire strap with eyelet crimped on each end. Used for linking things like subframes to the chassis for electrical continuity purposes.

What do you want to but for it? Paint? Bushes? Arms? Brakes? Diff? Driveshafts? Earth straps?

Yeah, "amplifier" is a bad word used by (even) Nissan to describe something that is not actually amplification in many of these control boxes.

No engine problem can be related to the diff. It's either a diff problem or an engine problem but not one that involves both. Unless it has got the shitty A-LSD in it, in which case you're best off burning the car and claiming the insurance.

You're fishing, aren't you?

No, you don't need the sleeve for what you want to do. You only need the sleeve if you drill out the hole, and want to "undo" that mod later. And, I very clearly described what to make the sleeve out of in my previous post.

Or, option C. Get or make some replacements for the inserts with the threads you need. That's what I did when I put R34 calipers on R32. But if you want the quick, easy and perfectly fine option, just bang a drill through the mount hole. if you even need to go back, you can just sleeve it with a short piece of 14mm OD 1mm wall tube.

Nissan oil pressure senders are to be trusted as much as the Iranians trust the Israelis.

Whilst this is all true, it will conflict with MCA's approach, should you go down the path of getting coilovers from them. They are very much more in the "control roll with spring rate" camp rather than "control roll with bars" camp. I can see the benefits of both approaches. Loss of independence side-to-side from using big bars is a negative. Hasn't stopped me from putting big adjustables on though. But then, mt spring rates are only in the 5kg/mm range.

You going to be using stock ECU, or aftermarket?

Hmmmm. But perhaps a bit further off the ground to keep the Regency boys on side. Plus or minus a few other things that won't fly here, like the bumpers, cage, possibly the wheels.

Just draw one up with the required holes on paper. Then transfer to suitable piece of ally and cut the holes and shape the outside. Take you 2 hours, max.

No, the actual question is what is actually wrong. Then you can worry about whether you can fix it. Then you worry about how to fix it.

Well, it's either a mechanical/physical problem (say, with the mode door), or the 30 year old electronics are going to f**k.

You can't really break a timing belt by "thrashing" an engine.

No, you can take them out, and take them to someone who can test and clean them for you. You can't clean them at home.

I would be more than surprised if any Splitfire was more powerful than any other Splitfire. There is no real difference between a Splitfire made to suit a vanilla 25 and a Splitfire made to suit a Neo25, except the physical fitting. Your research is faulty. Whoever is saying that one is stronger than the other is smoking crack. (And it is not that hard to work out that if you have a Neo engine, you need Neo coils.) And if Kudos are really wanting over $800 for a set these days, it is madness to even consider buying them when the step up to some R35 coils is not that far.

ATTKD.

Yes. And no. What Ben is trying to say is that the sync timing is not the idle timing. Manuals (RBs) should idle at 15°. Many of the autos idle at 20° because it makes them have a little more torque at idle which is needed to keep the engine working against the load of the torque converter. The sync timing just means that the ECU knows what the actual engine angle is. The actual timing that is run at any moment is then simply what one table or another in the ECU demands. 4000rpm and 20 psi of boost? Likely to be about 20°. That's 20° exactly, because the ECU knows where zero is (because the ECU was told where 10° was).

The MC most certainly could be bypassing. It could also be too small! You have a lot more piston area at the calipers now.

Um.....the sound you're talking about comes from cams.

You have damaged your turbo. The only question is "how close to f**ked is it?"

No. The TCU is in the ECU. They accept Nistune just fine and can continue to run an auto or a manual engine with no troubles. What you are thinking of is certain combos of autos with separate TCUs and PowerFCs.

It's a bit small, even for a housing location. Even a 40mm might be a bit tight.