GTSBoy

What country are you in?

ABS is not rubber. ABS is a hardish plastic like PVC. Anything that is rubber with studs will very likely be genuine.

R32 doesn't have a cabin air filter. Waaay too old for that.

Did you mean retune? If so, then not likely, no. Unless it was tuned on the ragged edge with the spark failing to burn all the fuel. In which case someone would need their arse kicked anyway.

Well, regardless of what the actual problem with the pump is, you cannot make more fuel out of thin air with a rising rate reg.

Follow the wires.....

Don't go LED yet, unless you're willing to experiment and perhaps fail. They're not quite reliably good enough just yet, especially on conventional reflector lamps. Don't put 100W globes in there. Even if you have put a full set of relays in to take the load off the headlight switches (dash binnacle and column dipper), it's not a good idea for the lamps themselves. And if you want to know what type of globe is in your car, pull the bloody thing out and look at it.

Not true. Stock Neo turbo will hold 12 psi to the redline. Mine certainly does.

I would strongly suggest, that like most early automatics, the reverse switch is bundled up with the inhibitor switch in the shifter.

Don't need to see the Nazi staff car or the cruise liner. But more of the Porsche and 280 please.

This (the visual inspection) is worth nothing compared to having a fuel pressure gauge on it when it goes lean. Easier on teh dyno, like Kinkstaah said above.

Your plan is valid. But, be careful about binning the dash. A number of things rely on the speedo generating the speed signal. You'll need workarounds for any of those that are still functioning on the car. You also need the charge light function. Maybe there's a couple of other things too.

Ohhh. I only read "to ditch the auto ECU" and being part of the plan.

Seemed like a fair assumption. Your Accord Coupe says "US model". You are on posting with the army talking about buying a Skyline. There would have to have been 2000 such posts from US army guys on here over the last 20 years. Mostly when they are posted to Japan. And you refer to Skylines as "Sky", which is odd, and the sort of thing we might expect to evolve in a place (like the US) that vaguely knows about Skylines but has been starved of them.

Yes.

Yuh, they will both do the job (although I'm not speaking for the Haltech 2000 specifically. You might or might not need a different model). But what is your plan for a TCU?

I'm also leaning towards fuel pump issue. Not completely dead, but not doing well. Even with the 1 in 10 it works story.

Dirty math using a better estimate of maybe 2-3% where many don't get the treatment that they need to survive.

Now it sounds like a bleeding problem.

So, when did the brakes become spongey? After you did that?

Don't buy "refurbished" MCs from eBay. You don't want a kit. You don't want a mechanic. You want a brake specialist, exactly as Kiwi said. You take YOUR MC in there and they fix it, and they give you a warranty. If you take it home and install it and the pedal is still f**ked, it is very much more likely that you've got another problem, not that the MC is still faulty. And then you start to think about your caliper seals, etc. They can and do, but that leads to a hard pedal, not a mushy pedal.

These discussions are hopeless. The OP is from the US. So the first task is to work out what is meant by "wheel horsepower" anyway. It would be safer to start by specifying that the power wanted is 30% or 50% or some other% more than stock. With the knowledge that stock power was originally 187 kW at the engine (or whatever it actually was on a vanilla 25). But one thing we do know is that RB25s will handle being run at close to 100% power increase for many years. That's a step up from ~140 rwkW (as measured on a typical Aussie roller dyno) up to somewhere between 260-300 rwkW. If the OP's 450 - 500 HP numbers are US inertial roller dyno numbers, then the upper end of that range is in excess of the believable safe range, and the lower end is probably close to the top of the believable safe range. If the 450 - 500 number are engine HP, then it's a piss easy walk in the park.

I have an R32, so no triple gauge to start with. But in that location I have EGT pre-turbo, boost and oil temp. I consider those to be a sensible selection that will tell me most of what's going on. Could obviously add several others, but wouldn't want to make the car look F&F.

No. Not feasible. Go below 5mm at your peril. More is better.

Just measure the diameter of the barrel and subtract 355mm from it to see what radial space is left. (and of course, divide that by 2 for the number you're really looking for). Then you can ponder which calipers will fit in that gap, and if perchance there was room for a 5 or 10mm larger disc as well. Oh, plus the running clearance you're happy to live with.