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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    I have trouble believing that all 4 of them are crook. Go down to the loom plugs for each sensor and check there. Follow the linked doc.
  2. GTSBoy
    Don't worry about the shifting guide. You can change up at any speed between idle and redline. The only question after that is whether it will have enough torque to swallow much throttle opening in the next gear> RB20s have little torque, so the answer to that question will be "no" unless you're above about 3k rpm. And just to the right of the speedo is the gauge that will tell you about that. The km to mile conversions are correct enough. Everyone since forever has treated the conversion as 40=60, 50=80, 60=100 and 70=110, to within the accuracy that matters.
  3. GTSBoy
    Too vague. By "on the harness side", he means down at the sensor plugs. Because the 13-14, 15-16 etc tests are done on the harness side, up at the CU. I always resist this suggestion until it is proven that there are no other faults on the car that could fry your friend's ATESSA box.
  4. GTSBoy
    The numbers you have are not relevant to anything, see above post.
  5. GTSBoy
    You reported no continuity on the 13 - 20 wires. I don't trust that. That would require all of them to be dead. Although you do need to report only the 13-14, 15-16 etc pairs. Get a resistor of known value from your stash of electronics parts and tell us what the Fluke says when you measure it on the cont/res scale. If you don't have a resistor, get an 8 ohm speaker or something and test that. The 1-2 and 3-4 pairs were not to be tested up at the ATTESA CU either. They were to be tested down at the sensor plugs. So try that too, and report.
  6. GTSBoy
    Yes....but I already posted that Flukes are autoranging, so you don't have to choose 2k or 20k or any other resistance range. But if it has an Omega symbol on the dial, then it can do resistance. And I cannot imagine a Fluke clamp meter that does not have a resistance range. So what model is it? Ahhhhh. Just saw post on previous page. The continuity range is also resistance. So now we go back to your original reporting on what the sensors were reading. Wait one.
  7. GTSBoy
    Nah. Don't bother. At idle it doesn't need to be making max volts and charging like a mofo. If it's charging at all at idle, that's enough. What matters it what it's doing when its under load.
  8. GTSBoy
    No. Swaptronics is the last resort, not the first. A useful multimeter is $10 at Jaycar. What model? I've never seen one that doesn't do resistance, current, volts, etc.
  9. GTSBoy
    Blanking plate in the console. No speakers. Just to save weight in cars that were going to go to race prep. Same as other stripper spec cars such as RS Evos, etc.
  10. GTSBoy
    Fuses protect the wires, not the equipment connected to the wires. Hence, you size the fuse to the wire's capacity. 10A makes sense.
  11. GTSBoy
    This cannot be true. The very definition of a multimeter means that it can measure resistance. Fluke is the best brand out there. It is not possible that it doesn't have it. The red arrow shows you the resistance mode. Flukes are autoranging, so you don't even need to select the 20k range yourself. It will do it for you.
  12. GTSBoy
    There's not supposed to be "continuity" in the sense of a short circuit. The resistance across those pairs of wires is supposed to be between 800 and 2200 ohms. As measured with the multimeter set to the appropriate resistance scale, probably 20k ohms.
  13. GTSBoy
    The multimeter is the right meter. Just set it to 20k on the resistance scale.
  14. GTSBoy
    You're not supposed to test all of them to all of them. The original linked document clearly says check 13-14, 15-16, 17-18, 19-20. Expected resistance is between 800 - 2000 ohm. You do not do this with the multimeter set to continuity. You do it with it set to the appropriate resistance range. Which will either be 2k or 20 k. Try 20k first, as raw accuracy is not important here. If the circuit is open (infinite resistance) then you have a broken wire, dud sensor, something like that. If the resistance is drastically low, it's either a wiring short or a dud sensor. You can see the difference between harness faults and sensor faults by measuring at the sensors, as shown in the diagnosis tree.
  15. GTSBoy
    Note, the code rings get scrubbed with a wire brush. The sensor itself warrants a more gentle approach.
  16. GTSBoy
    Brake-kleen and a wire brush.
  17. GTSBoy
    Basically, yes. There are some return flow setups that are not as bad, but the majority suffer from the sharp turn and smaller core height. So once the air flow rates get up a bit higher, the pressure drop skyrockets. The pressure drop goes up with the square of flow rate, so once it become significant, it becomes numerically much worse with every small increase in flow. If you were running that turbo at 24 psi (at the outlet), to get 14 psi at the plenum, then you can see that you're actually working the turbo MUCH harder than it looks. That's why you need to know the data. Because if you're only losing 2 psi over the cooler, then you have to look elsewhere.
  18. GTSBoy
    That will be what Tao will say is your problem. What is the boost pressure at the turbo outlet while you get your 14 psi at the plenum? You must make measurements of what is going on.
  19. GTSBoy
    I bought my car last century.
  20. GTSBoy
    I have the high-rise armrest and the glovebox coolbox in mine. Both rare options almost never ordered. But my favourite part is the A31 Cefiro rear subframe. No HICAS. No wait. It's the Neo. No wait. It's the S15 helical diff.
  21. GTSBoy
    Mine idles as 60-650 all day every day. All it takes to get it there is to set the idle speed target in Nistune.
  22. GTSBoy
    Only unmodified examples can come in under SEVS. Assuming that you are eligible to import as a personal import, you would be well advised to google rules for personal imports yourself.
  23. GTSBoy
    That ^ is the correct colour for calipers.
  24. GTSBoy
    There is no way that that has been only 120k km since about 2002!!! Lolz. Also, it does not have GTSt seats in it, so consider that it might have been built up out of something else. I would check the VIN on the GTR registry. See what pops up. Nissan FAST also good for that. The car doesn't look too bad. The oil weep around the HICAS solenoids is not great. But there's too little else to go on.
  25. GTSBoy
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