GTSBoy

Technically, it was /thread at post 2.

Non turbo? Non LSD. 99% of the time.

There's.... a.... whole.... thread.

Relays are easy. You provide a dedicated (and fused) power supply cable to the relay (onto one side of the switched contact in the relay), with fat enough wiring to handle all the current that the load will use (which is one, or all 4 headlights, depending on what you choose to do). You use the original wiring that used to power the load to switch the relay. That generally means cutting that wire and placing the load side of it onto the switched contact of the relay and the incoming side of it onto the coil trigger of the relay. Provide an earth for the coil (so the original wire will run the coil instead of the load). When you turn the circuit on, the circuit simply makes the relay run instead of the original load, and the relay now supplies power from the new feed to the load. The current required through the old original wiring (to run the relay's coil) is massively less than the original load's current draw. The relay will have better contacts in it than the old switch, so should last for many years (and is easily replaceable, should it ever start playing up). The new fat power supply puts max volts onto your headlights, getting you the most light you can out of the bulbs. Win. The only time relays in headlights can be tricky is when there are complicated changeovers between high and low beam. Not really an issue in old Skylines though. As I said, I simply put one relay directly behind each globe, so they are all switched on by their original wiring, but powered from a separate feed to each headlight. Each relay has it's own fuse in it to handle the load, and there is a master fuse in the main fusebox where the headlight power is found anyway.

Did you bypass the coolant around it? Does he live in a cold enough area that this will cause grumpy cold start running?

ah.....the "P" word. Useless imbiciles. I stopped considering them as an option in the 1980s.

I have 4 relays. One behind each bulb. f**king easy to install them that way - no real re-wiring required except running power out to them.

You're going to need heat shielding between the two (exhaust and turbo outlet). Those o-rings will be nitrile, buna or something similar. You can google up their temperature limits, but I think you can take it for granted that with a black surface absorbing radiation of a f**king hot manifold, they will get damn hot. I would wrap the clamp in fibre insulation (think thin kaowool blanket) and then some reflective tape, and try to get a sheetmetal radiation shield layer in between that and the manifold with an air gap either side.

There is a complete Neo for sale on this forum right now for ~$2.5k. Barras are f**king enormous and heavy. Great if you want a drag car. Shithouse if you want a normal car that still handles. Any rebuild should not be to factory spec. Should be decent rods and pistons at the very least.

Check alternator function.

But but but......RB26!

Yuh, it's hard to believe that anyone could think that anything so cheap and nasty could be built anywhere other than ChinaBay.

That'd be 2nd hand though, not new yeah? No point in comparing apples with chimpanzees. The desirable Nismo diffs are up around $1800 new.

39654+A holds the CV on the shaft. The big one holds the CV together (I think).

What sort of dumb shit statement is that? I wrote, "4 out of every 6 are usually f**ked in the box."

Ugly AF. HKS not known for ugly in the same way that Veilside are, but also not known for elegance in the same way that Nismo are. This one is verging on Veilside ugly. This one is verging on VL Commodore levels of strap on Tupperware stupidity. Would not bang now, nor would ever have frothed over it 25 years ago.

Circlip assembly. Easy enough.

Handling is worse with a stiff diff. More understeer. Traction is vastly improved over the VLSD poobag. Cusco have some better options than KAAZ. Nismo have better options again.

You need to read what I wrote.

Yuh, you are confusing it/yourself. I initially read Steve's post the same way you have. Stop and read it again. Imagine pulling the inner CV joint off your R3x axle and throwing it over your shoulder. Do the same to a 350Z driveshaft but toss the shaft and keep the CV joint, and then jam the 350Z CV onto the end of the R3x axle shaft. Et voila, you have gotten rid of a CV that has 5x1 bolts and replaced it with a CV that has 6x1 bolts, on the same axle shaft that you always had in the car. Now this axle will connect to a diff that has 6x1 flanges.

You wot mate? Looks like pox. Rear wing wraps forward to make it look like the failboat line of an R33 rear end. Front bumper looks like it belongs on a tupperware Camry. Unnecessary plastic cladding on the lower half of the doors. Front lower corner of the side skirt is just plain big, bulky and ugly. Conversely, the back end of the side skirt is nowhere near as vertically deep as the Nismo one, despite all that sideways bulk required to implement the (probably) non-functional air vent. Regardless of whether that vent is functional or not, it's not needed to feed the brakes anyway. Face looks like this

That's cool. I didn't know the CVs would transfer to the older shafts. Opens up a whole world of possibilities.

The outer case is the same outer case that the original Nissan diff was in. Nismo does not supply the housing, just the internals. Same as any diff.

They are unreliable cheap arse copy factory #876 Chinese crap. 4 out of every 6 are usually f**ked in the box.

Just take the head off and find out. This internet diagnosis thing is bullshit.