Duncan

Just read that manual, the top 4 pins on the connector are the 4 i mentioned, and page 15 says just choose the "ECU mode". Looks like it should just work......

It's likely to be quite simple, generally a CAN connection only needs 4 wires (power, earth, hi and low CAN signal). If they say the dash understands haltech it's likely to be as easy as making the connection and choosing some sort of "read CAN" option on the microtech But i haven't specifically worked with those 2, I used haltech and iq3 dash.

Yes they do screw right off, but they can also seize over time and when they do they can twist until they break instead of undoing. Try a little wd40 over a couple of days, and use a flare nut spanner if you can. But odds are it's going to break and you'll need to replace it.

I did a bit of work on the wiring in Neil's radical as an example, the only circuits are: ECU and loom requirements including an ignition and start switch, fuel pump relay and wiring, ECU relay. Kill switch between alternator/battery and ECU loom (alternator connects to battery side of the switch so single switch kills all power to the ECU) Radiator thermo fan switch (water temp) and wiring Oil pressure, oil temp and water temp senders and wiring to the dash RPM, speed, power to the dash Brake light switch on the pedal and headlight/taillight switch There may be a couple of other things but that's about all, it doesn't have to be complex.

Well, I've never really run 2a much, and I don't know if you're looking at racing or only speed events....but from the regs.... Schedule A/B – no electrical requirements Schedule C (racing only) (h) On each automobile, other than those of the 5th Category, fitted with an electric fuel pump, the pump power supply must cut off in a maximum of six seconds after the engine stops; Can be a bit tricky depending on what else is in the car. Either the ECU must control the pump based on RPM or similar, or you can use something like an oil pressure switch to earth the fuel pump relay (with an momentary override switch to start the car) (i) Each automobile of the 2nd and 3rd Category shall be equipped with a battery isolation (master) switch which isolates the battery and stops the engine, and: (i) it shall be capable of being operated by the driver in his normal seated position; (ii) there shall be a second switch, or a remote means of operating the main switch, from the vicinity of the base of the A pillar on the driver’s side or, for an automobile with no A pillar, in a comparable position; and (iii) each external device shall be clearly marked by a symbol showing a red spark in a white-edged blue triangle of minimum edge length 150mm; This seems straightforward but I see heaps of cars that do not comply with “stops the engine”. Basic switches just isolate the battery but if you have an alternator the car will keep running. The switch needs some sort of additional circuit that stops the engine eg disconnect the ECU relay, fuel pump relay etc 2A open and closed sports car regs: 2. ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT 2.1 The component parts of a complete electric system, including generator, accumulator, warning apparatus and lamps, are compulsory. None may be of a temporary kind or addition. The entire electrical system, including lighting and warning apparatus, must be in working order at the start of the competition. The Supplementary Regulations may specify that these devices shall be in order during the whole of the event or allow for penalties in cases where the systems are not working at any time during the event. Nothing to worry about here. You just can't have things like external starters that some formula libre cars use in hillclimbs. 2.2 A self-starter in proper working order fitted to the vehicle is obligatory, and none of its parts may be removed during the event. Upon failure of the engine to start on the starting motor at the start of a competition, such car may, after the departure of other vehicles from the grid, be push started and in such cases a time penalty of one minute shall be applied to the car concerned, such penalty to be promptly advised to the car’s pit crew; but failure so to notify the pit crew shall nevertheless not expunge the penalty. Supplementary Regulations may require that other means of starting during the event be forbidden and provide for a penalty in case of the non-functioning of the self-starter during the event. Any check of the function of the starter motor will be made at scrutiny and/or in the pre-event marshalling area. So this means you need a s tarter motor and a battery at a minimum. Alternator is optional if you don't need to run longer than a battery charge and you are OK to recharge between runs if necessary. Otherwise you need the alternator and associated wiring like battery pos link, battery voltage cable, exciter/charging light in the dash, regulator (normally in the alternator) 2.3 The complete lighting system must consist of at least two dipping headlamps each of at least 125mm diameter or 160cm2 area, each of 35 Watts minimum power; and two tail lamps each of three Watts minimum power (both the above sets of lamps must be not less than 600mm apart) and at least one stop lamp of 20 Watts minimum power. If only one such stop lamp is fitted, it shall be in the central vertical plane of the vehicle. At the start of the competition, headlamps must be in effective working order and correctly aligned; the lens must be protected by a translucent shield. Pretty minor really, just need h eadlights with Hi and Lo beam, tail lights, 1 brake light. So the minimum setup is pretty simple really.

Well there's a mystery solved.....went to swap back to the powerfc to see if it would start the car....and found out the bloody haltech wasn't plugged in. I had dummy fitted the wiring to check for length and didn't come back to plug it in properly plugged it in and rpm (and everything else) started coming up ok, even the fuel pump trigger was working. On the down side it still doesn't start but since it's a untuned base map I'll do a few other checks before trying the PFC again

well according to your profile, " Member has not yet responded to email change validation email " pm sent

But all that aside, I finished testing all the extra circuits, flushed the fuel lines, shortened the oil cooler lines for a better fit. Fixed the standard dash coming on with ACC instead of IGN (setting in the smartwire) and the Haltech dash always being on (CAN power is also configurable in the smartwire). And I worked out how to dim the Haltech dash when the headlights are on, just need to run in another wire into the spare remaining smartwire switch input. Got all the way to trying to start it which didn't work..... Turns out there is some issue with the CAS signal (not sending) that I'll try and sort out next weekend, assuming that's the only issue running it will be off to painting. Also Neil banged together the switch panel, looks great, but I'll hold the pics of awesomeness until it's in the car.

Yeah I guess there are 2 ways to approach any track or race car. Almost everyone one SAU has taken the "add to a factory car" approach because a modern car just has so many damn systems to look after. Building/wiring from scratch is very unusual here and only really used with engine swaps, but would result in a much simpler system. I kind of look at mine as a hybrid because I ran under the "add stuff" model for about 15 years before this rebuild where I removed all the unnecessary stuff. But when you think about a GTR for rally use, as well as the obvious engine/ecu/fuel/ignition stuff, you've also got ABS ATTESSA power windows and doors with central locking all the road lights; parkers, headlights, taillights, reverse lights, number plate lights, indicators rally equipment and comms; intercom, terratrip, rally safe, car to pit comms for racing camera and charger data logger, gps, brake pressure etc to actually learn something about how you're driving instead of guessing zoomy stuff like boost control, boost logger, e85 sensor reliability stuff like logging voltage, fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp It really starts to add up, and that's why I gave up on the "add stuff" method and moved to the haltech/smartwire/dash setup to make life a little easier and more reliable

well well....I'm never really sure I trust 30 year old error/troubleshooting, but there you go, it was spot on with a very easy solution. Great to hear. you know it's possible there shouldn't be that many unplugged plugs in an engine bay

still, no reason you shouldn't be able to enjoy it anyway

well I hope it wasn't sold to you as an aussie delivered car.

wellllllll.....page C-67 says that the error code flashes every 3-4 seconds....so in theory it might be throwing code 1 which is front right wheel speed sensor. Should be easy enough to do a physical check of the sensor at the hub, the wiring to the hub in the wheel well and there is a plug where it plugs into the main loom in the engine bay on the strut tower under the throttle cable. CH-70 shows full troubleshooting for code 1. Or it's just misleading and the light is not trying to tell you 1

Also...is it the only gauge playing up? there could be some sort of earth problem

just have a look for the VIN number on the firewall above the motor. It will be something like BNR32-xxxxxx.

Hi mate, firstly, the 4wd and ABS lights won't come on due to a bleeding problem. But having said that, it sounds like you also have a problem with how the system was bled. Is this car new or have you always had this problem? To bleed it you should fill the reservoir, disconnect that plug which should start the pump, and then open the bleed nipple near the end of the transfer case. Fluid will flow (eventually...), once it is bubble free close the nipple. You may also need to follow the same procedure with the bleeder nipple above the rear driveshaft in the same line. As for the actual problem....when the ABS/4wd lights are on the error code should be flashing on the computer under the rear parcel shelf on (on the right) through a small LED. Check out how many times it is flashing and check which code that is in the GTR workshop manual.

well blow me down. there is a plugged hole on my spare block just above and to the rear of the oil filter block mount on the driver's side. And it looks like the right size for an oil pressure sender although I wasn't able to check

mixed luck today (sorry no pics again). Front brakes are on, and we went to bleed the system. The shiney new braided rear lines proceeded to leak like sieves, need to get some that are actually made properly I think Score 0 on that job. Imagine ebay letting someone down! Testing of the electrics went well, everything was working correctly with no grey smoke. Minor issues with the intercom (mistake with the plug/pins, sorted), the iq3 dash (always on, I've since found where to program that in the smartwire so it comes on with IGN), and the stock dash comes on with ACC instead of IGN (reprogramming smartwire needed). Score +1. Kill switch, ACC circuits (mostly new) and IGN circuits that I've tested so far are all working OK. Once all the circuits have been tested I flushed out the fuel lines, found a couple of fittings I hadn't tightened yet Still on that job, but once it's finished the car should be OK to start up and idle on the haltech base tune. Score +1/2

can you take a pic or describe better where you mean on the block? there is no location to screw a pressure sender to the block, in the standard setup it screws in to the oil/water cooler oil filter mount. there is an oil feed on the passenger side rear but it is generally a turbo oil feed and would be the wrong size for a pressure sender anyway

well I didn't really make a recommendation because it seems to me there are about a billion possible reasons and its very hard to work out which one over the internet. water temp is an input to how rich the ECU runs so there may be simply be a problem with your tune for cold start, or a problem with your water temp sensor. Is the ECU stock? I'm not saying you shouldn't gap your plugs down, that can help point to an ignition problem (plugs, coilpacks, ignitor, resistor pack, wiring). Just that a lower gap is not actually a good thing, it just helps tell you what part of the system is not healthy. Based on the description it could also be a fuel supply problem like a leaky injector as well, it's just hard to guess based on a post and I don't want to mislead you to spending money on a guess And yes, having a spark plug that's not in properly is a problem, but that doesn't mean you should try harder to screw it down; the plug may already be cross threaded. If I were you I'd have a good mechanic look at it

Can you pm me the email you're trying to use; likely you have an old account somewhere as well

lol I surely ain't downgrading to a BMW 7 series! It was just an interesting experience because I had never thought through that (obvious) link between the car's automated systems and the potential impact of a fuse... incidentally the car did throw 3 error codes when this all happened because as far as it was concerned I had tried to start the car without disarming the alarm properly (since that circuit was dead). Quite a dead end there because all the trouble shooting for those errors suggested one of the transponder keys had failed and sent an invalid code, not the issue at all

I don't have any direct experience with having gears cut, and would have tried engineering shops like you did.... But why do you need a custom gear cut? Do you want something special in gearbox or diff ratios? Surely it will be an expensive step

I've been having the issue with the previous reply appearing when I quick reply (although not always). In the reply box it says "your previous content has been restored" so I guess it thinks I never got to submit it, even though I did. Using Chrome.

Hey Martin you'll need to be more specific for us to check it out; which users, and exactly what is happening when they try and log on. If they get a message that they need to validate their email it will be easiest to try that first.