Duncan

well that's the thing about bleed related problems.....everything in the system sensor-wise thinks it's working OK and it tries to send pressure to the actuator, but none arrives. So generally no errors but no 4wd = bleeding issue

In my experience, bleeding at the transfer case resolves 80% of 4wd hydraulic problems.....but it would still be easier to do them both at once than to find out you were in the 20% and had to start again

The pump and accumulator for the transfer case are on top of the rear diff and a real pain to get to. The relays are in the boot under the rear trim next to the boot lock (a pair of black relays together). You may simply have a bleeding issue, there are 2 bleed nipples on the attessa line (one at the rear of the transfer case, one hard to find one above the rear axle); start the car and open the nipple it will bleed through (remember to fill the reservoir in the boot first)

wow. he clearly knows his shit and there is good info in there....but did no-one watch the video before posting and suggest it could have been made clearer? anyway....I'm not saying there is no benefit to something I've never tried, but in 10+ years racing the skyline up to 1 hr enduros I've never had pad knock off, nor have I had a wheel bearing fail. Maybe the z is different to the skyline setup though. I've had plenty of brake problems over the years with boiled fluids, over temp pads, race pads not working on the street, master cylinder leaking etc etc, but never pad knock off. I suspect the skylines just have nice big wheel bearings....not that I ever had the problem in the evo (6hrs) or daewoos (1hr) either

Next steps now that all the major components are in place is to mount a couple more things (dash, intercom, video cam, rallysafe, terratrip etc) and then run all the wiring for all of those + the new sensors for the haltech. But at least it's finally progressing, and I should get more time over xmas to make more progress. In the meantime we also solved one of hillclimbing's major issues......how to get a decent coffee in the middle of nowhere. Thanks to nissan's designers for their usual over-engineering to make that possible....there is a 140a DC/DC converter that is powered by the main battery. As well as coffee the system can provide about 8A@240v for a bit over 24 hours on a fully charged battery for things like keeping the house running in a blackout.

Other than that, the engine bay loom is in place and tidied up, including some new saddle mounts for the starter motor/alternator loom. Also you can see the new kill switch unit in the bottom right (black box with red writing), it is a solid state relay that disconnects the earth from the battery, and sends a kill signal to the PDM or ECU when the internal or external kill button is pushed. Should be more reliable than the usual big switch + pull cable that I used to have I've also added a new grommet in the firewall to deal with some of the new wiring without having to run it through the wheel well. That was a real pain because the firewall is double skinned there with body sealer in between I've also installed the boost logger required for production cars....yes $700 for a unit that logs boost and can't be used for anything else. awesome.

Next up was mounting the ECU etc in the passenger footwell (still in mdf because the carbon fibre fabricator hasn't been around recently), and the power distribution module under the centre of the dash

Also did some mounting brackets so the oil cooler is now properly held in all 4 corners (the workshop that did it originally only had it supported at the top) And I've built a bracket to an LED light bar for night events while everything was apart. 2 uprights into the reo (cut down gudgeon pins because I have so many around) and a second support back to the bonnet latch to make sure it all stays straight (and allows a little up/down adjustment). It will have to run without the grill in place with the light on but airflow is still good which is more important Oh, and I've fitted the new n1/base model headlights with LEDs

RIght-o, time for another burst of updates now my unplanned week off contract is over..... A few years back when I had a rush of castor-rod-break-itis, it really brought home how unprotected the main wiring loom in the driver's side wheel well was. So I took the guard off and have mounted proper cable tie saddles nice and high so I can easily remove/reattach everything there. Once again the rivnut tool was awesome Not so the "stainless" fasteners that we put in a few years ago, they were all rusted in place and one required an easy out to remove (the hardest one to get to of course)....cars have a way of making simple jobs hard...

Well I've got to say I've never used them, and had wondered the same. But for me it feels like a solution to a problem I've never encountered.....

I think it's funny how the 2 simplest corners (that and Hell) are the ones where all the mistakes happen.....the taxis are the same....

What, unexpectedly flashing back 8 years? I wonder if any of those parts ever did turn up....

Good to hear, enjoy the new shocks

OK, got it now. You've got the nut off, but the shock is still in place, and you are trying to remove the "bolt" that the bottom of the shock is on. So it's actually a stud, not a bolt, and it's not meant to come off. Just pry lightly between the shock and the upright to push the shock off the stud. A big screwdriver or small pry bar will do it, dead easy.

Thanks for closing the loop on the problem...hooking up the release bearing on a pull clutch is a fiddly bloody thing

Well, take it back for sure to have them have a look.....my first guess would be the pedal bracket may gave snapped which is related to, but not caused by, a heavier clutch... But it could be a bunch of things.....

well I can't see any pics or detailed specs on their website, but since they are at a similar price point to all the other big brake kits (Attkd, G4, D2, Ksport etc), I'll hazard a guess they are the same/from the same factory....in which case I think they are excellent for the price.

Good driving! And I love the way that car picks up speed...even up the hills...must have been fun

well there ya go....I've been using them for years and noticed absolutely no difference!

They look like the same as the AP 6 pot/G4/Attkd/D2 whatever pads to me....like GTSboy said trace them and see. Discs look harder since they are 10 bolt (m6?) and obviously we can't guess the PCD from a pic. Measure the offset and check them against the DBA catalogue to see if anything else will fit? Very likely you will have to change the hats as well, not just the rings I suggest talking to Matt at RaceBrakes in Wetherill Park, he will be able to work out what does or does not fit.

Nismo engine mounts are identical to standard engine mounts in size. Apparently they are a little harder but I've never noticed the difference

if you take the cas out and spin the shaft with the ignition on, do you get rpm on the adaptronic, and injectors clicking? that's the easy place to start

I totally don't understand that pic. Are you trying to remove the shock? If so could you provide a pic of the bottom of it?

I just go to Gary's or Gordon and get raped like everyone else. Sometimes when they are a control tyre there is a discount of something like $5 per tyre so they are only 550 each. The guys with the fastest tyres (Z221 and A050) know it, and charge accordingly. second tier tyres are much cheaper at about 350-400ea so if you don't need outright pace go for something else. The official distributors have a nice tight monopoly. Yes you can import them if the even doesn't need marked tyres (most control tyre events do) but how long are you willing to wait....

jesus that car is slow....how'd you stay awake on conrod? you'll have more fun with something with a few more ponies