Duncan

well the sad fact is that cold start tuning is a little fiddly compared to the easy stuff (full throttle power runs). Lots of tuners don't give it enough attention and I'd guess that's what happened here. The good news is it is easily fixed by a competent tuner with a little time, and there's nothing wrong with PFC capabilities...

do you mean it idles low initially, and then the idle rises as the car starts to warm up? that's not a problem with PFCs, its a problem with your tune, or air or fuel mechanical system. it may be running too rich until the water temp rises and pulls fuel out, is it also missing at first?

One other thing, no-one will have them in stock. You'll have to order them in...

i'm not aware that there is any english workshop manual for 33 gtr as it was only sold in Japan. The most common PDF is for 32 but is generally the same. I printed the PDF because I prefer paper in the garage, about 800 pages.

I used genuine on my most recent build, but I've previously used cut down lengths of rubber hose and they worked fine too. Changing the 20 year old ones is a good idea....

I ended up going with these....not the cheapest but not expensive either....http://www.blingworkauto.com.au/product/jw-speaker-h4-hilo-6200k-led-bright-white-headlight-bulb-for-toyota-hilux/

Changed the FPR across, it struck me it had been on there forever without being changed over. Now I've looked at it I'm happy I checked it out..... Got some more done on the fuel system; subframe back out with Neil's help and the flex sender mounted up Started making up the lines and fittings. t fitting for the fuel pressure sender and the secondary filter are here, it will be mounted next to the surge tank where it's easy to remove and clean. Lots of others still to do of course Pulled the fuel lines off and cleaned them, mounted the -6 compression fittings on either end of the feed line. Also replaced the pump, it's been in there a long time and is a little noisy.

hmmm I have some slack update periods. Actually I have some slack working on car periods as well of course. So, some updates from the last few months. I mentioned earlier I had some 18x9.5 +12 rays for the car and they weren't a good fit, so I ordered some forged BC rims in 18x10+22 which should be the actual right offset for a GTR. Oddly Rays only make wheels in 9.5 or 10.5 which is too small or too large for targa rules. BC make them to order in any size And they are nice and light too, look like they will be strong enough to bash on things Also decided to replace the broken headlights I'd had in there for 15 years, I picked up a pair of base model 32 lights AKA N1 spec. Had to get them from Japan through Jesse Streeter / Yahoo auctions since I coudn't find a decent set locally. I also bought the brackets from Kudos that hold the gtr grill in They came up nice after a clean and paint I switched across to LEDs too, will see how they go

lol, you mean other than a major PITA? I'll check something out but I don't have access to anything other than retail couriers

They're called waist moulds. And this is now in WTB

Sure do, and they're mighty purty......

Hi mate, I'm not specifically familiar with G35 onto R34 swap, but generally the 32/33/34 series stuff is interchangeable but 35 and later use a different offset disc and caliper that may or may not fit. So G35/V36, M35, Z33, V36, Z34 etc all interchange but not necessarily with an r34. If you are able to do a trial fit I'm sure the v35 stuff would be much easier to find in canadia than any of the other ones except perhaps a Z32 aftermarket big brake kit

Onky just realised that's a 5 door 1600....unusual! We've been dragging the Leaf all around the state for the hillclimb champs, since the post above we've been to Grafton, Tamworth, Raymond Terrace and off to Canberra next weekend. Still going great, and yes we only get 250 to tank.....effortless but thirsty!

While I agree, they are kind of expensive if you take into account that you may need intermediate spring seats (between the main and helper spring) as well as the springs. and the labour assuming its not DIY You could just lower the car so they are captive to get through the pits..... I wouldn't swap out working zeals for new bilsteins, they are a reasonable shock and its not really an upgrade unless they needed a rebuild anyway.

Love it, what sort of condition is it in? Good ones are pretty much impossible to find these days

Spot on. Exactly the same issue happens in the front upper arm, particularly 32 gtr, when you add castor for the same reason And good on whiteline for sorting out replacements with no trouble.

I probably have one (not sure exactly what that line is) but am not in Sydney until tomorrow night....let me know if you are still looking. Is it the whole set of pipes that go around the back of the head for wastegate actuators and turbo water feeds? Or something else?

Assuming they mean adjustable traction arms, they definitely can make a difference to both binding and bump steer...when you change the length of the main upper arm but not the front/traction arm you change the geometry.

Align RightNew thread is here:

Good to see this thread, keep everything civil and on topic and I'm sure there'll be no problems.

Well, I'm no mechanic, but I think it snapped. Must have been an exciting moment.....

ummmm, but the difference is that you may actually notice the handling difference from a sway bar?

Both posters are most likely due to the seal around the tank lid, not the actual fuel lines themselves. Lots of shops don't get the lid right if they have been in the tank to change to pump or inspect the level sender. Take the cover off inside the car and undo the large plastic ring, a large bladed screwdriver/pry bar and gentle taps from a hammer will do the trick. Then inspect the rubber seal for damage or cracks (it's probably OK), then carefully reseat it, spray some wd40 on the plastic ring and carefully screw it back on. Because it's such a large thread its easy to cross thread it which will make it seem like it is sealed properly when it isn't.

where are you? no location on your profile....

wire brush on a grinder will do it. plus brake cleaner and scrubbing in tight corners