Duncan

While I agree, they are kind of expensive if you take into account that you may need intermediate spring seats (between the main and helper spring) as well as the springs. and the labour assuming its not DIY You could just lower the car so they are captive to get through the pits..... I wouldn't swap out working zeals for new bilsteins, they are a reasonable shock and its not really an upgrade unless they needed a rebuild anyway.

Love it, what sort of condition is it in? Good ones are pretty much impossible to find these days

Spot on. Exactly the same issue happens in the front upper arm, particularly 32 gtr, when you add castor for the same reason And good on whiteline for sorting out replacements with no trouble.

I probably have one (not sure exactly what that line is) but am not in Sydney until tomorrow night....let me know if you are still looking. Is it the whole set of pipes that go around the back of the head for wastegate actuators and turbo water feeds? Or something else?

Assuming they mean adjustable traction arms, they definitely can make a difference to both binding and bump steer...when you change the length of the main upper arm but not the front/traction arm you change the geometry.

Align RightNew thread is here:

Good to see this thread, keep everything civil and on topic and I'm sure there'll be no problems.

Well, I'm no mechanic, but I think it snapped. Must have been an exciting moment.....

ummmm, but the difference is that you may actually notice the handling difference from a sway bar?

Both posters are most likely due to the seal around the tank lid, not the actual fuel lines themselves. Lots of shops don't get the lid right if they have been in the tank to change to pump or inspect the level sender. Take the cover off inside the car and undo the large plastic ring, a large bladed screwdriver/pry bar and gentle taps from a hammer will do the trick. Then inspect the rubber seal for damage or cracks (it's probably OK), then carefully reseat it, spray some wd40 on the plastic ring and carefully screw it back on. Because it's such a large thread its easy to cross thread it which will make it seem like it is sealed properly when it isn't.

where are you? no location on your profile....

wire brush on a grinder will do it. plus brake cleaner and scrubbing in tight corners

and give the fork a wiggle too, if the pivot is broken inside the box you'll get those symptoms

The key pic internally is to take the inside of the hole you can just see in the first pic. Assuming its a mechanical centre there are ramps inside that determine if it's 1, 2 or 1.5 way, they look like |/, \/, or a halfway between those 2 respectively. Also there will be a ratio stamped on the main gear as well, something like 37:9 which is the 4.11 diff. edit, cancel that, I can see you have that in the 3rd pic I don't know how to tell the brand of the centre, others might, but personally I don't think it matters too much

Thread closed. The behaviour in this thread is unacceptable.

And it has. This thread is locked and the troll is banned for now. Feel free to discuss turbos, just keep the personal crap out of it.

Chris at craved did mine too, great job, he used a heat radiating powercoating

thanks mate but I'm pretty sure its the same source (pdf manual) that I had....check out p777 the detail isn't readable and the one you posted doesn't say which fuse is which, it just shows there is a fuse

well, judging from his youtube, he not only sped through a school zone, but did it sideways on the grass.... ....so, fun, presumably.....

yeah and the outer rods ends off the hub. but it's all pretty straightforward.

Firstly, if anyone has a readable copy of the GTR wiring diagram I'd love a copy! Fuse 7 (IGN) seems to connect to: Exhaust temp sensor HICAS computer Steering angle sensor A/T ECU (GTS4 only) I take it that the actual issue is that the car doesn't start with that fuse blown? If so there is more to it than what I just listed, like I said the diagram in the PDF manual is pretty much unreadable (its on page 777 if you want to try, top leftish marked IGN #7 10A, also joins to 20 on page 780 (also top left, marked IGN #7) but none of HICAS or the EGT sensor is required to start the car. BTW it's very likely your EGT sensor is also disconnected, it lives in the cat from factory and is not reinstalled in most cars when a custom cat/zorst is installed. Plug is probably unplugged under your passenger seat somewhere Also it's possible the fuse problem is not the cause of your car not starting, could be a goose chase...

Yes

holy shit! great work doesn't even start to cover that! what was the firewall from, out of interest? And is it a totally custom dash?

I mustn't have been clear enough. No chatting in FS threads, if you want a discussion of different blocks start a thread to so so elsewhere. Next off topic or chatting posters will be warned and/or banned.

While its an F50 not an M35, I have a very similar screen and software, still in jap, and I use it all the time on the fuel economy screen. No need to be aggressive in dismissing the questions from a new member just because you don't agree....why not just make your point politely and leave it at that?