Duncan

actually I was just poking around under mine today, and I have a black box with lots of wires between the fuse box and the driver's kick panel, its a kind of super interior box which beeps, does central locking etc etc. why do you think the problem is under the dash. do you know what the error code actually is?

umm I guess you must really like that dealer.....personally I would not be OK to pay the premium of a dealer mechanic to have them ask me for info about their car. I wouldn't mind helping a local mechanic if they asked the same question because I don't pay more for them to have this sort of info (yes I get it's not locally sold....but still....) Anyway I have the PDF manual if you want it.....about 3,200 glorious pages in japanese.....send me your email address and I can send a link BTW very unlikely to be a wiring problem if 1/ the trans doesn't work, and 2/ consult says why it doesn't work. I'd just change the faulty solenoid and see what happens

It was probably Pete, he's got form

Dunlop Sport Maxx RT (in 235/45/18 and 245/45/18) Dry : 7/10 Wet : ?/10 Value for $ : 8/10 Just bought these for both the Stagea and the Leaf, excellent value for a performance road tyre at $210ea fitted. haven't tried them in the wet or on a track yet but so far they have been very grippy for a road tyre, a bit noisy of course

what he said....you are about to fall into a religious war between 2 camps 1. no or stock sway bars and heavy springs vs 2. upgraded (whiteline adjustable) sway bars with much lighter springs. I am very happy in group 2 but have never really tried 1.....to me it makes sense to use the lightest springs possible to get maximum traction (the harder a spring is, the less time the wheel will spend on the ground over bumps) and use sway bars to manage side to side roll.

hmm I saw a remarkable vision from Mark Clair with one of those but I'm not really convinced they are more than a mind bending gimmick yet.....will be interesting to see how more vids look.

the system will drain through when you disconnect the lower end of the lines you are replacing. if you do manage to empty it all out (probably unnecessary) you will need to bleed the system again to getting it running properly. Lift the front wheels off the ground and turn them from lock to lock until you hear the pump sounding happy instead of angry

then you have some sort of battery earth or alternator issue, an auto elec can test and repair the alternator

Good to hear the brakes are sorted. The gearbox is almost certainly just due to breathing. Ever since they changed the formula to remove the carcinogens it has breathed like crazy. I just leave it at whatever level it decides it should be after breathing out the exces.... Cam seals may still be the cause, particulary depending on the quality of the seals and the little rubber pieces under the cam cover bolts (and making sure they are not overtorqued causing pinched seal). Also if its an rb25 head it can leak from the VCT solenoid. Not sure about the manifold nuts because I've never really had a lot of trouble. I'd guess it is a bit banana shaped...next time it is off put a straight edge along it

Great to see SAU putting together teams for these events, they are an awesome way to get a heap of track time

Either alternator, battery or just wiring to the RSM (including bad earth, dont just thing about positive side). Yes around 14v depending on how cold the car is, and yes a multimeter at the battery when stopped (~12v) and running (~14v) is the next step

lol I don't remember them rolling off the showroom floor quite like that....

Maybe give them a bell....it says for Auto but I can't see transmission cooler fittings? Or doesn't the stock one have a transmission cooler in the radiator? I'm running one of their cooling pro ones in my stagea but it is manual

wow. how do you end up with powder coat flakes.....coater must have been a real butcher

Don't know what size he needs, but they are very cheap semis at $420 for 235/45/17. By far the best bang for buck mod if you are trying to drive up a hill fast on cold tyres.

Cams allow L2NSJ licenses from 12, not sure if the club has further rules for entries

Track only car doing hillclimbs? Definately not Rs3s. I'd go soft Z221 Hankooks. Haven't run them myself but Neil has tried Federal Softs, Avon soft slicks and the z221 softs and rates the hankooks best.

Enough gents. Back to the topic.

or why not go outside the brand but in identical style?

put something bigger on it then, how about F50 Cima?

C34 is 14mm. Not sure about M35. But you really you have at least a set of spanners if you own a car

Agreed it sounds reasonable. I think there is little feedback because everyone just lives with the harder steering, its very usable....

yes, and quite the opposite, it made amazing power and won the national championship. Imagine a poor old RB trying to breathe through twin 27mm intakes

its a grey plug next to the fuse box under the dash on the driver's side

Right now we are talking. I take it that is a holden auto? NFI about fit there, there tunnel is not huge. The motor fits but apparently having headers, a starter motor AND a steering rack is a big ask. All of the r chassis rear ends are pretty good strength-wise compared to any average car, and there is a lot that is interchangeable. Personally I'd go with the gtt rear end and see if something breaks. If it does take a 32 or 33/34 non vspec rear end from hub to hub and throw that in. Only issue might be difference in ABS sensors. And you may want a different ratio as GTSBoy said