Duncan

I've been using the car regularly while the Fuga is off the road having the boot pulled back out from the hatchback it was changed into, and realised a few things needed attention. The main one is doing something about the gauges and head unit, but more on that once I sort out a final problem While I was there, I thought I 'd check out the shifter which had been very sloppy recently. Well, as they say, there's your problem..... Changed the shifter bush across to an old spare (ex race car like pretty much everything else in the Stagea), and sure enough it is much nicer now. Still need to sort out the cooling problem, it overheats when idling. I picked up a GKtech fan and RB adapter but it doesn't fit. If I can get that sorted and it doesn't improve things I guess a new rad is next on the list (it has new coolant and I've done a pressure test to confirm no leaks). I also have a rear main leak and a clunk under power that has been there for a while, but they can both wait until I have time and a hoist.

Great to hear, you've done this really quickly for such a complex project

Sounds like that G sensor isn't plugged in. Per the diagrams GTSBoy scanned, all wiring to the G sensor comes from the ATTESSA computer under the rear parcel shelf in the boot, pages CH-57 onwards in the 32 GTR manual cover trouble shooting the system, that is worth a read, but I'd start by removing the centre console and checking the G sensor is OK and plugged in correctly, and the wiring to it is not damaged. If it all looks OK you could check continuity between the G sensor and ATTESSA computer for those wires. In R32 it states 10A fuse #21 (4WAS) supplies power to that system Did this issue happen suddenly or were you doing something prior?

Top speed? Probably, as long as you are going downhill

Its never a good time to be single 😛 It *looks* like the front turbo seals are leaking, and I'm assuming you've had a good look at the rear and no such trouble. That rules out general problems like breather plumbing or really high pressure for some reason because the rear doesn;t have the same issue. Therefore....I'd drop the front pipes and check out the rear wheel of the front turbo for movement, and remove the front drain. Either the core and it's seal is in bad condition, or the oil return to the block is kinked or blocked preventing oil draining out freely

The standard pivot points have been known to snap with a combination of heavy clutch and heavy foot, and it is a quick/easy thing to change if the gearbox is off (and a real pain if not) No idea whether this one is actually stronger than factory, and I've never heard of anyone having a fork issue.

Funny you should say that, I spent 4 hours mowing the lawn yesterday afternoon.....with a 6" wide slasher

not sealed, but we've taught a bunch of kids basic driving on our driveways, we have a couple of klm, hard to hit anything. Plus if she wants a manual we have the old hilux, doesn't matter if it gets scratched.

Unless I'm missing something....can't you just unbolt and reverse your decat pipe to move the bung closer? I guess you are pulling off the front pipes to check the front turbo seal for a leak anyway

I'm not sure I really understand the concern, apart from any potential difference in wire sizing (amp capacity) there is no difference between 1, 2 or a thousand IGN wires.

Assuming you own a multimeter. Unplug the big plug to the key switch, and then in continuity mode check out which pins have continuity to the battery 12v in the various key states. Off, should be no continuity to BAT ACC, ACC only should have continuity to BAT IGN, ACC and IGN should have continuity to BAT Start, IGN and Start should have continuity to BAT

100% agree...owner might have turned down the boost to 9psi but got the 388 figure on a higher level eg 18psi

Yeah classy response for open government. An election is due in 6 months, so we can't do anything until then. Wish my job worked that way

Does the current owner have a dyno graph? It is a bit of an old school setup but probably around 400 rwkw. Where is the 100m wood installed?

jeebus. so the new bracket is plastic? seems like a great solution if it is thick enough to last long term, can the files for the bracket be shared for other?

That is awesome news. Now if only someone would make front guards.

Should-a stuck with twins....

As always, it depends how much you change at the same time as getting it fixed. But, I think GTSBoy was referring to any part of the car going pop, not just the gearbox, they are far from new these days.

well, for what it's worth, PWR seems to stand for "Probably Wrong Radiator"

lol remember when gearboxes were cheap and plentiful?

ECU really comes down to tuner preference, the general features are the same. Link will give you move $ for $ than Haltech but that is only a small part of the total cost. No idea which cylinder knocks first, although legend has it #6 might in an rb26 due to plenum design (more air at the rear)

It's not clear which one you are after from the pic, but aftermarket silicone will last better https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-intercooler-hose-kit-nissan-gtr-stagea-260rs-rb26dett

I had the carpet out of the footwell in the stagea yesterday, some aftermarket wires ran across the passenger floor and they had melted into the sound deadener/tar over the years....

"well, there's your problem"! pretty sure that counts as a major boost leak. You need to stay off boost until it is fixed, because your turbos will be making eleventy boost at the turbos

My understanding is R34 GTT is the only r chassis where the seats don't interchange with other models. You need replacement R34 GTT seats, or aftermarket seats with rails to suit R34 GTT only