Duncan

Glad you've made some progress. Apart from visual inspection of the main hoses, you could spray a little start ya bastard/ether/brake cleaner on any suspect joints; if idle rises you know the extra fuel made it to the inlet so there is a leak there. They can be hard to find though. I'm not familiar with idle control on rb25, but what did you do to that valve, just clean it? You might need to reset an idle screw if it has gone form dirty to clean

So firstly, while I have a link in the Stagea, I'm no expert, and the software is almost as bad as the Haltech plug in software so it is a bit of a challenge. I am not sure that there is an order required between TPS calibration and timing. There is on the standard ECU but since you can lock timing in the Link I guess you can do either order. The TPS raw voltage doesn't really matter, what matters is the Link knows the closed and WOT voltage, so I'd do that calibration process first. The timing is locked when that timing screen is open, so make sure it is open when you are trying to set the base timing. I've only ever done it by getting the CAS into the ballpark (if it's marked) or starting at the middle of adjustment, starting the engine and then adjusting to get to the target (15o in your case). It may be possible to do when cranking. And yes, absolutely you need to return after changing the turbo. Same boost but bigger housing is more air which will require more tune. However, off boost at idle it should not make a material difference so that is not your issue. I should add, you need to make sure you don't have a mechanical issue like an air leak before chasing ECU issues. An air leak is the most likely cause of a high idle.

Is this an rb25 (single manifold)? On Rb26 I've had this issue where each factory 3 cylinder manifold has shrunk a little with the heat cycles and I've needed to grind out the hole for the studs a little....I would not be surprised if you could have the same issue but more so with a 6 cylinder one.

Yes, you can block off the end of a hose instead of capping the nipple on the plenum, same same. For many years the standard way was a suitably sized bolt, hose clamped or cable tied in place. The right way to do it would be one of those vacuum caps straight on the nipple as posted above. It is not impossible to get to, you just need tiny hands and to hold your tongue right while you try and do it. The Haltech expects a mac valve to be installed in the location of the stock wiring, so just cut that and wire in the new plug there. But as said in post 2, the standard ECU works differently and you may have issues if you switch the boost controller before you switch the ECU

It's not an exact location, but the general location will be under the dash, probably just to the left of the steering column, mounted on the dash support bar. and like GTSBoy said the physical clicking will be easy to follow

They really have not given you enough information to install this kit. Are there any tiny tiny numbers on the pressure switch to determine which is 1,2,3,4 that way? Diagram shows pin 1-2 are a circuit and 3-4 are a circuit, so assuming the switch is normally closed (I think it is because the switch turns off when target pressure is reached) you can use your multimeter to identify which 2 pairs have continuity. If it was factory wiring you would guess the red wires are 12v and white wires are earth but this is aftermarket so all assumptions are off.

Well, you go to Triggers - Calibrate - Set base timing. In that window you set whatever base timing is convenient and the ECU locks it there while you have the window open. In your case it sounds like you want to use 15o so change that if it is not, then using the timing light and adjust the CAS until it is at 15o. Be aware that it is common to get doubled readings from a timing light using the loop at the back of the engine, so you may have accidently set the base timing to 30, not 15. Under Options there is a TPS Setup item that helps you calibrate the TPS if you think it has changed. Even so, I am not sure that running as badly as you are saying is just a base timing issue. I guess start with that but it sounds like something else is not right.

Isn't this already in place? All the Euro cars with the inconsiderate drivers and error lights on the dashboard are required to pay for Euro plates in NSW?

He said what everyone was thinking. Surely bluetooth is the answer, even for internet radio if necessary

I've had a properly sized rubber hose without a clamp pop off the standard fittings, specifically the boost reference at the back of the post throttle balance tube which I was using for the Haltech MAP input, at 1.3 bar I run cable ties on all of those small hoses for safety and reliability (they are too small for any sort of useful hose clamp, factory had those little spring clamps which are just a form of decoration)

Cubes are great city cars. We had one for a few years with hectic autech exhaust and lowish springs. You'd be the coolest mum in the school queue by a long way. Just stick with the regular auto, the CVTs were problematic

Sorry to say, it is very difficult to get the hose off with the turbo in place because the 2 hard lines don't have much gap between them, it is highly likely to split the rubber hose. Unfortunately taking the turbo off will be easiest.

When you changed across, did you re-use the factory oil return pipe? I thought there was a physical difference between factory and garret cores, which is why these exist: https://justjap.com/products/xtr-turbo-oil-drain-adapter-garrett-t28 If it fitted up fine, I can only suggest pulling the oil drain again (real pain) and checking the gasket and mating surfaces

Yep at around 400kw the standard box is near its limit, some people kill them straight away, some people must be nicer and never have a problem. I'm running a standard 32 gtr (awd) box in my stagea at 400kw Unless you really want to spend money on it, stick with the standard box until it breaks, and then put an aftermarket gearset in it (either syncho or dog depending on how unfriendly you want it to be on the street).

I'd respectfully suggest that "strongest" isn't really enough to provide useful advice. What sort of power or torque are you thinking, and what sort of use (street, drag, race, burnouts at summernats??)

OK, must just be me again. Other than daily latest content email, I've not received anything for posts or topics since 10:53 on 20-Sept, would generally get 30-50 per day. Also didn't receive notification of your mention in this thread for example

Ha, well no progress lately so no updates. Given another upcoming wet summer I've been out on the tractor with the grader blade trying to get some driveway drainage in place, which in itself is an interesting challenge. And once that is done I'll have a few months of weeds to get ahead of for the same reason. My guess is progress on GTR will be slow until later in the year. Kell is off to Great Tarmac Rally in a couple of weeks with Mel in a shitbox wrx instead.

Hey @PranK is there an issue with email notifications? I seem to be missing some or all post and/or forum emails which I assumed was just me again....but I noticed someone else mentioned they had missed a notification too?

I hope they are willing to replace if it fails at under 4000hp (is that wheels or fly?)

I'm really happy with it as a zoom around the countryside car. Not a race car but it handles OK and goes well. I was a little nervous about the battery thing too, but figured replacement is possible if necessary. I did get the car taken to a dealer before shipping to be checked out for any errors and HV system issues on the basis that it would be half the price to fix anything before it left. They said the batteries were in great condition, but of course who would know Ultimately, it would be hard to tell if they weren't OK unless you were paying a lot of attention to how often it is in electric mode. It starts and stops pretty seamlessly so if a battery was dead and it did so 1/12th more often I'd never notice. Incidentally, in the full EV Leaf this whole thing is much easier. There is software called Leafspy that reads the EV can and provides detail on the health of individual batteries, so you could get it checked before auction in about 2 minutes and have confidence in what you are getting

It is looking great But I'd be running the standard, not nismo thermostat (even for track use). Assuming you have sufficient cooling, it just runs too cool with that

Sorry but those results are a good example of bad news, it won't be just a test issue or similar (unless you can't repeat the result on #4). At a minimum head comes off but more likely it is a broken ring land because valve issues most often give 0 compression

Maybe.....but I've been lifting my 32, stagea and previously 33 with the front tow points for years, never had the slightest sign of damage. Tow hooks are actually a very convenient spot for low cars because you don't need to get the jack far under the car

well, you should put proper semis on them for the khana next year, some soft yokos A050 or hankook Z221, they are just mind blowing compared to street tyres

f**k, someone would have felt a bump when that happened!