Duncan

Yeah I agree, it's nice to read how things really happen to most people who DIY

Just FYI if you want to manage costs, you can run the manual on the stock auto ECU, I did for a while until I got annoyed at the inability to up the boost without annoying the standard engine. If you are determined to change the ECU, I'd go aftermarket, link or haltech to save the stuffing around And any attessa controller will work, the cheap ones do 99% of what the expensive ones do. Just remember not to use RWD only mode as it is no good for the xfer case clutches

how good is 20 years of skyline You could start with finding the model code of the gearbox (unless someone here knows to post it up), then just look for a second hand one; most likely if you can find one it will be the cheapest way to get back on the road. I think a manual conversion is likely to be surprisingly expensive to get parts, so not worth going that way unless you really wanted a manual. 3rd option, consider selling it if you just want a car. It is probably worth a bazillion dollars (or at least a few thousand)

Well, it is period, so no surprises

On that....I believe there have been a number of threads on here detailing the issues with those adapters not fitting and working correctly, it is worth a search.

Well, welcome back. Unfortunately I don't have, and don't know where to get, the M35 manual, I only have the C34 one.

FWIW I've got a 34 GTT console in my manual swapped stagea, it is a perfect fit and good trim match

Mantic are totally legit, they are a performance sub brand of one of the big Australian manufacturers (clutch industries perhaps? I can't remember). I've also found them good for questions if you have any Why pay GTR tax if you don't need to?

Yes, but the weird thing is, a standard 33 gtst runs fine with that fuse blown, while at least some aftermarket ECUs need it (it was actually absent from factory in S2 which is even weirder.) I've never traced the wiring for it though

Yep, you need a new seal

so, got the R34 cable from Just Jap today (yes, 4 days to a rural location, still waiting for the Amayama order I paid for early April...) I haven't had a chance to check length or fittings yet, and may not this weekend, but I note the r34 cable moved to a metal instead of plastic, fuel door thread.

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Nissan

Nothing is quick these days, is it. Are you setting the diff backlash or do you need to send it out again?

top of my head, approx m4x 6mm. You can confirm the thread by threading any m4 bolt in there. BTW don't snap one off when you assemble the engine, wish the engine builder had known that back in the day.

Yep I'll check the length is same or longer and try and swap it over as plan A, because that gets me sorted and means I have a spare (borken) 32 one to look at alternatives over time...will report back

That explains a lot, I had been wondering if you were actually an AI, its getting so hard to tell these days

Still, it can probably chirp second

whoa, you have a skyline?!

No, definitely just go a set of splitfires to suit your engine, no need to change to something expensive. https://justjap.com/products/splitfire-direct-ignition-coil-packs-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-stagea-rb25de-t-neo If they are original, it is probably worth just changing to new ones, but keep in mind there is no guarantee that is your problem (or that you only have one problem). Good, properly gapped spark plugs and good quality (no cracked connectors or bad wire) coil pack loom are other common issues BTW GTSBoy we've learned about the 2nd and 4th most common issues today, I'm intrigued as to what #3 and #1 are?

So, that is a pretty good description of a missfire, which can have many causes. Most likely is a spark problem, either coil packs or spark plugs. Best to start by changing the spark plugs. If it doesn't go away, unplug the coil packs one by one with the engine running and see which one doesn't make it worse.

Thanks for the tips guys, the good people at just jap have an r34 one on the way https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boot-lid-fuel-latch-cable-fits-nissan-skyline-r34-coupe Once I've got a new one working I'll look into disassemble the old part and see possibility to getting a run of new ones made up, it is obviously a thing

Yeah good call....I'll have a look into possibility disassembly. I think it would be a pretty common failure, 30yo brittle plastic That or I need to find someone who just reshelled a coupe race car 😛

I'm no wood elf, but I was stripping varnish off some old furniture the other day, initially with paint stripper then sanding it down. Varnish clogs sandpaper like crazy, long before the actual medium is blunted. I discovered this stuff, which is basically just a softish rubber stick, as long as it is not too glazed it pulls the varnish off the paper and makes basically like new again https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/g183

The other progress I made (no pics either) was on the driver's door handle. For years it hasn't closed properly, so I took the opportunity of the door being apart to pull it out and have a good look. Basically, the main parts are cast aluminium, and I can only think that at some stage I jumped in or out in too much of a rush and have managed to bend the moving part of the assembly. Probably when the car was on fire one day, or I was grumpy about doing *another* engine It was very tricky to get into unbend it in all required directions because the handle is permanently attached to the housing (they have welded or press fit the pin that holds the 2 parts together). A combination of g clamps to pull things back together and a bit of dremel time on the 2 cast parts that are meant to *just* slide past each other but were hitting pretty hard in my case, has it all working smoothly again now

Onto progress instead of anti-progress. I found myself wondering if this is really a race car anymore, because when I found out new door seals and moulds are available (door and chassis sides), I went and bought them. So, last 2 weekends was doors off (man they are heavy), door cards off, give everything a good clean and grease. Old stuff looked pretty crap, although they were sealing OK I figured if they have a mid-life refresh at 31 the car should easy outlast my racing career Gift for future Duncan, both window motors are now marked with polarity to put them up or down with a battery Both doors clean and new seals in place