Duncan

450 is a fair bit. I'm running 400awkw through a nismo coppermix twin with no issue, still a little bitey compared to a single plate...

Looks great. I also did a tidy up of the "add a bit here and there" wiring a couple of years back with proper connections, labelling etc and it has been much easier to install and remove, troubleshoot and much more reliable

It's a little late as the back plate is already on, but you can prepack the pump with assembly lube (or even vaseline apparently) to help build pressure quickly on start up too.

Basically, the standard ECU and the IMPUL ECU are effectively locked to a single tune. The ECU works within a set of known parameters, looks at the inputs, processes them and decides what outputs. One (well 6) of the outputs are the fuel injectors and they are fired based on revs, load and some other small adjustments like engine temp, oxygen sensors etc. With an non-programmable ECU, every input and output has to be exactly the way the factory expected, and so does the engine system itself. So, you can't change airflow meter (input), injectors (output) or turbo (engine system/ total airflow). Also, everything has be in good working order, eg the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator need to supply the expected fuel pressure and the coils need to supply sufficient spark. Keep in mind you are dealing with cutting edge electronics from the early 90s. You need to purchase and have installed a fully programmable ECU to get more than about 10% more power. Your profile doesn't say where you are so it is hard to recommend, but in Australia Nistune (basic), PowerFC (basic but with a display), Link or Haltech would be the go. But the big factor is that it needs to be tuned, and you need to pick an ECU your tuner is comfortable with or it will cost much more while they learn it.

It's a cosmetic choice so up to your preference, but I get the cam covers, upper timing cover, twin intake pipe and plenum done. Couldn't find any good engine bay pics but they make it come up nice

Yeah LEDs are readily available for gtst/n1 style reflector lights, but the GTR projector ones I don't know something that fits. I ended up changing to reflector style

If you have oil pressure gauge already plumbed up you have the option of plugging the oil sender port (generally 1/4 BSP) and then plumbing the sensor into the fuel feed to the rail, you would need a T fitting (2x 5/8th barb and 1x 1/4 BSP) which are readily available

assuming it is not overboosting.... I would change the fuel filter and if possible check fuel pressure under load.

what's your VIN#, (BNR33-xxxxxx) I'll look them up

I don't have the part# handy, but all 4 (LH/RH door and cabin side) seals are listed on efisolutions.com.au https://www.efisolutions.com.au/search-results?q=r32 seal

There are 2 switched on the gearbox, neutral and reverse. It sounds to me like the neutral switch has been wired into the reverse lights. I can't see from the other pics if the reverse switch is fitted or just blanked off somehow. You don't need a neutral switch in a manual so worst case if you don't have a reverse switch installed you can move the neutral switch over (both switches are functionally identical, just in different locations on the box)

those seals are available new from nissan

squint

You need to pull the plenum out and paint (or even better powder coat, it lasts much better) If it is scratched on top, wait until you see underneath.... Also, do the top timing cover and cam covers at the same time as the car will be off the road.

Congrats on the win!

It needs to be custom made, top mount manifolds and turbo ranges mean the dump pipe shape will be custom

Original thread is here:

hahaha I don't see many of these any more. It is a Raceworx ATTESSA controller, we sold about 50 of them around 10 years ago. send me your email and I can send the user manual across, also let me know what colour and how many times the light flashes and we can work out if it is still operational or not.

well, I've always figured, your car, your choice! It will have minimum 2x the go compared to a stock L24 so you should notice the difference....

Welcome Bird! What engine is in the car now? BTW, I knew Western Australia was planning to secede, but who would have imagined they would join the US!

Yeah the Z brembos definitely have a different offset for the disc to R/S stuff, but I'm sure JJ could hook you up with the right ones...hell they even had them for my F50 Cima

yeah I always use safety squints when using the press, and have a collection of big sockets and random bits to try and get the parts to sit the way they need to. They are a PITA but still easier than taking every job to a shop I've never used HFM 2 part rotors, but have used both the DBA ones and ATTKD/D2/whatever ones and they have been fine. They never seem to quite deliver on being cheaper at replacement time to just do the ring though

Also, thanks for the massive effort translating this soviet_merlin. I'm not really in a position to up and download GB myself with satellite internet but if you have any idea on how best to host it I'm happy to help.

When you say "picked it up" do you mean it is new to you or it is back from a shop that changed something? The required plumbing is pretty simple, anything else that is open needs to be blocked off. You need a post throttle body pressure source to the boost controller (in this case the Link). There is a nipple on the back of the engine which is suitable, the stock line from there runs to the standard boost gauge sender on the firewall (you would also T to this for any boost gauge/logger etc). It is mentioned but not marked on your first diagram You then need a plenum (pre throttle) boost source which goes to the boost control valve inlet, and then the boost control valve outlet is attached to both wastegates (the green line). An alternative (much shorter) option is to take this source from any point after the 2 turbo outlets merge and run straight to the boost control valve mounted on the passenger side, then back to both wastegates, this can reduce spiking due to the shorter runs There are separate vacuum feeds to the carbon canister, fuel pressure regulator, BOVs, brake/clutch boosters and also PCV, AAC etc, none of them should need to be touched. But any vacuum line that is open to atmosphere needs to be blocked. The "water tube" has separate lines with both water and air so it is a misleading name.

great info, thanks