WMDC35

T67 25g 10cm would usually make 20 psi before 4k on a 25 although with a bit more compression and vct than you're running, td06h/sh 25g was usually around 300rpm later, t67 with 8cm was only marginally more responsive but down around 30kw up top. Be surprising for the l2 to not be more responsive than sh especially on a rb20, although old news I'm wondering why the sh with the 20 comp haha, maybe the sh worked better with 8cm than l2 with 10cm.

Back in the times when they were popular it was usually td06l2/sl2 20g, td06h/sh 20g wasn't something you seemed to see around?

Yep, need an r32 or z32 ecu or time for a new ecu, nothing cheap about keeping these cars running these days.

It's a blue plug 33 ecu/loom? Probably the easiest way is to use all the 33 ancillaries on the neo, not ideal but works, nistune be a good idea, if it's alloy cas you'll have to reverse the wiring and coil mounts might be different, otherwise wire the neo loom in.

Assuming it's not the very late s2 wiring diagram/harness you've used, you've reversed the wiring for the cas from s2 to suit neo?

More DIY, less labour costs is the way most of us save some/spend some less money lol.

I haven't had much to do with them but if you bore it to suit rb pistons 86.5 etc then there's not much difference, if you can use an 85mm piston then would be thicker bore than a 30

There was a couple of gtr's at the last gtr Cootamundra day running rd28 block

Usually the RE5 auto cars had the 3.5

The 25dd & 35de have a different vct setup, 35 rev up has the same as 25dd

If the noise is just off idle then goes away could be loose cambelt

Usually it happens again as the problem that caused it originally wasn't sorted properly, better off to put an import motor in than repair it. The gauge won't show it's hot with no coolant because the temp sensor is dry, if you suspect it's losing coolant in the future try the heater on hot as they usually lose water out of the heater core early on so if doesn't blow hot it's losing water.

This is what most people do, you have to grind the fins on the bottom of the sump for a bit of clearance. R33 is front sump, not many rb cars are rear sump, z31 rb20 is rear but haven't seen any others.

Are they +22, +24?

You could probably use the z32 tt manual speedo drive gear to sort the speedo out? OEM 300ZX (Z32) Twin Turbo Manual Speed Sensor Pinion Gear (TT) - Z1 Motorsports - Performance OEM and Aftermarket Engineered Parts Global Leader In 300ZX 350Z 370Z G35 G37 Q50 Q60

There's 1 in the 25 dyno results a couple of pages back

Usually when Nissan is ground off it's just for wheel clearance.

Selling up now? Had enough?

Probably be ok, if any issues you could just run a bit more power/boost for the low boost.

/\ Another vote for cam timing, double check it's timed up using all the right marks, guess is it's way out.

Genuine type x aero kit, impossible to get though

Manual non turbo r33 speedo drive should sort it, electronic drive for the 20 box

Just plumb it in before the throttle body joiner Definitely go DBW with the g4x if you can

Plenty of high end race cars run no bov, also the 20det c33's & a31's had no bov from factory

And CVT's that "shift gears"