Mag86's Skyline Project

[Factory 5]

somehow scored a complete R30 sedan, 5 speed with a L24e, ported head, custom cam.... not running.

$50 bucks pickup

just spoke to a workshop, the said they will get it towed to their place, put the engine & box on a trailer for me, then keep the car for parts...

now i'll have enough engine spares to start a race team!

im still looking for a place that i can strip all the goodies out then give it to the workshop... as im still keen for some more bits but i can store any more 'wrecks' at my house anymore (there is actually a clause in my lease that i do NO mechanical repairs etc on the property....) but the landlord is a LITTLE sympathetic, having owned 2 280zx's in the past he love his dattos still (he said if it was a holden or falcon he'd evict me...)

anyway anyone have a paddock or workshop i can borrow for a weekend???

[Factory 5]

Hey all,

Bit of a late update.

I now have in my hands a beaut R33 SMIC that i will modify the in/outlets to use as a front mount. Thanks to Mr.G for that.

Also recieved a set of RB25de injectors (270cc top feed 0-ring type)

I will be needing a custom fuel rail for these, bit of a bummer as most quotes i get are $200 to $350

I am gonna investigate into buying blank aluminium extrusion from efi technology, and getting a mate who's a machinist to drill the injector holes for me, $68 a meter aint too bad!

Any suggestions to help make this fuel rail are greatly welcomed.

Also tightened up the slack in the steering box... fk me it drives liek a whole new car now!!!

the plan is still to get it regoed, so saving a few bucks for tyres and pads etc...

cheers,

Andrew

Edited January 31, 2008 by MAG86

[blind_elk]

Also tightened up the slack in the steering box... fk me it drives liek a whole new car now!!!

How'd you do that?

[rsx84]

why not just use the rb25de fuel rail, moddify the fuel lines rather than the fuel rail??

[OUTATIME]

theres a nut on top of the s box that u loosen and then using a big flat head screw driver tighten it up (clockwise) then lock it again by tightening the nut. just presses the gears together and stops free play...sorta

have ya tried forcing fuel hose onto the injectors? alot of ppl do that with gtr injectors on rb30's. but its sounding gd now, moving along nicely...

[Factory 5]

some good ideas there!

yeh hoe outtatime explained is how i did it... followed directions from one of stagefumers threads...

might try the hose forcing on the weekend

[Factory 5]

well i thort i better get onto some of the things holding rego back, exhaust manifold gasket one thing to do.

bloody hell were these cars put together by left handed midgets or something?

its the 3rd day in a row and i still havent got all the manifold bolts out.... the worst thing is im gonna have to put them back PLUS take it all off again for when i go turbo

one idea i have is to just put the turbo manifold on, then make a dump pipe connection from the exhaust to the flange on the manifold, so then all i have to do is take the connection off and replace with the turbine!

speaking of turbos, i scored a rebuilt high flowed VL turbo off a dude in sydney, should match the 2.4 litres nicely i reckon

i have spoken to a few workshops about the o-ring injectors, apparently there is no problem if you dremel 1 or 2 mm off the 'shank' before the o-ring to give some bite to the hose.... problem solved!

AND

got some info about the L20et ECU. (from an expert of course)

It is an older ROM chip (8K ROM) plus 1K RAM. The HD46506 is an older version of the A/D converter used in the R31 (HD46510) which takes AFM inputs etc and converts to digital signals.

You are also restricted in the ROM image using just the flap AFM due to the older ROM program in these ECUs. They cannot be remapped to use larger AFMs.

If you use the R31 ECU which is a near straight plug in then you can use an RB30 AFM which is available easily and will measure upto 200rwkw (or adapt later on for Z32 VG30 AFM)

What can be done is remove the 8K ROM chip from the L20et ECU and transplant the fuel/timing maps from this into an R31 image for you so you can start tuning from that

so this means it is highly possible a RB30 ecu can be modified to run a L24e (+t) or any other L series for that matter, with the optical chopper wheel type dizzy

if the distributor can be grafted onto the origional dizzy shaft that would be a good base too.

argh too many ideas..... im just gonna stick with my L20et ecu until it gets fried or i need more power...

[skybt1]

well i thort i better get onto some of the things holding rego back, exhaust manifold gasket one thing to do.

bloody hell were these cars put together by left handed midgets or something?

part of the reason why i went with an rb30. I hated working on the Lmotor.

[rsx84]

took ages to get the L20 turbo manifold off when the engine was out of the car let alone if it was in.... rb FTW

[OUTATIME]

yea their a bitch 2 do. was easier when i had the head off lol

but just socket set and extentions got em off in under a hour.

sounds like been doin some research on the ecus lol. sounds goin full after market is easier. rb30 l24 ecu plugs r fair different tho. 31s run 3 plugs and r30s just 1 big one. unless mean l20et loom, think their 3 plug?

Edited February 19, 2008 by OUTATIME

[Factory 5]

yeh well if i blow up this L24, i have 2 spares to use up, so once theyre all f*kt i guess i will go RB... or SR20det....

of course the plugs are different!

the L6 loom will need the RB plugs spliced onto the loom, then they will plug in.

im sure the RB30 has a built in CAS in the dizzy? gotta figure out if the signal is the same as the L20et dizzy.

if not a mate said he can make the RB30 dizzy join with the L6 dizzy drive shaft from the oil pump by fabbing up a custom shaft...

im looking at getting my own tuning gear as this looks cheaper than a megasquirt or a delco808 setup.

The whole RB30 gear will surely cost me less than $100 (afm, loom, sensors, plugs, ecu, dizzy & cas blah blah)

also the RB30 system is capable of over 200kW, plenty for an L24 in my books!

ya never know, if this works out i might even make a few and put some kits together for the rest of the poor L-Jetronic users!

[Factory 5]

Well just a quick update...

2 weeks ago i did a big run from melbourne up to lake eildon via the marysville black spur (a few 100 km)

giving it some serious stick the whole way!

on the way home, got stuck in a group of 20 cars going 15km/h through big twisty hills

temp guage went spastic, really hot

car started detonating/pinging on light to moderate acceleration... it didnt know what was going on

pulled over, heater hose looked liek it exploded, coolant all over the firewall and a cranky wife in the passenger seat...

got towed, left it for a few days, then towed it to the datto workshop for a professional diagnosis.

he said to get new hoses, a coolant flush, and new coolant!

the head got hot enough to pre-ignite the fuel mixture, causing the pinging... i though i had fooked it properly!

so spent an hour or so flushing it through, new good coolant ($40 worth) and she's all good

did another twisty run with 'sneeze inc' car club... not a problem at all!

did very well in the twistys, kept up with the redtop HR31's with ease...

And for the turbo conversion, well all thew parts are there, just finalising a loom.

Have access to one in the USA, but the guy is in trouble as he is in houston, so his workshop got mangled up in the hurricane... BUGGER

Have too many ideas too, just gotta stick to the original plan. Boost the L24.

all in all haveing lots of fun, very reliable.

cutting the top of the airbox off helps too, plus advancing the timing and running premium, and removal of the aircon belt (its not hot enough fr it yet)

Long live the R30

[Ghostrider]

What you do to the airbox?????????

[Factory 5]

its a spare one i had...

still have the original in the boot

nice purple manifold to go on laters too...

[noddle]

its a spare one i had...

still have the original in the boot

nice purple manifold to go on laters too...

um, warm air from the engine bay...

[Ghostrider]

test

[Factory 5]

ok i put a stock airbox lid back on... PLUS the stock intake duct....

it is quieter than the chopped mod one, doesnt rev up as quick, but is more driveable... can stay in overdrive at 70km/h up a hill!

definilty has MORE torque than the chop top one.

so the moral of the story is... ghetto style NZ mods suggested by rednecks are NOT cool....

[noddle]

ok i put a stock airbox lid back on... PLUS the stock intake duct....

it is quieter than the chopped mod one, doesnt rev up as quick, but is more driveable... can stay in overdrive at 70km/h up a hill!

definilty has MORE torque than the chop top one.

so the moral of the story is... ghetto style NZ mods suggested by rednecks are NOT cool....

I'm looking at pulling air from a 3 - 3.5 inch hole near my headlights (HGC110 - 240K),

when I was doing some logging with megasquirt a month or so ago, at nights, the out side air was about 7 degrees, but the intake air (going into the engine) was about 17 / 18 degrees, the air was taken from the engine bay.

This was on the highway at about 100-110 k's, I would think around town it would be double.

my intake is the same as Mag86s, but with out the funnel (duct from over the radiator )

Nigel

[Factory 5]

looking at getting a megasquirt 2 v3 for my ride...

$300 for the kit landed within 5 days!

also have access to a dyno and a wideband... plus a good tuner at $30 an hr

now to stop busting things and start saving!

[noddle]

Here are two picture to show what I'm talking about, the red oval is where I'm planing to get cold air from

I have my MS all finished, just need to pull my finger out and put in to run the engine, I'm running this wide band

http://14point7.com/Widebands/JAW_1_03/JAW_1_03.htm

Nigel