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Modified R32 Mounts here...as per the recommendation in this thread and in the RB30DOHC guide

We also spaced down my subframe but ~8-10mm (plate) and my sway bar by about 3-5mm (washers)

LOADS of room in a 32 except for at the cam cover & or FMIC cross pipe where it goes over the clutch fan.

quick note for people who use teh 32 mounts in the 33. the original mounts are 70mm and the 32 mounts are 46, so you are 24 down on the bottom end. the top end you are high about 14mm (38-24). I was able to bring the top end up to 19mm using a aluminium plate which helped make all the cooler pipework line up nicely, however still not clearing the swaybar, so a 10mm plate on the bar should clear it, which should also keep the drive line only out by 19mm,.

Plazmaman Plenum is an issue for bonnet clearance, and the ASR circuit sump equally on the bottom end.

Edited by SilverECR33
  • 1 month later...

Can have a sucked in?!?!?! Anyway was trying out he antillag the other day. 25 head and 30 bottom. It has cp forged pistons and precision h beam rods. Metal head gasket etc. Made about 10 psi at only 1500 rpm. I was like "yeah man crank it up!". Saw about 28 psi at 4000rpm. Would have made it earlier maybe. I should mention that the afr for all this was about 10:1. I'm like "hmmmm" I wonder what will happen if I completely unwind the boost controller. So I did. The gauge goes to 30psi. It stopped working at about 40 psi. Car went a bit higher than that. 45, 50 maybe??? Judge by the vid bitches. Anyway the front and the back welshplugs in the head fell out. Front one was easy to fix. Cam gears off and tap the flamin mongrel back in. Ya know how the back on gets in aye. Bloody head off or hole saw through the dash. Note to self...dont try out crazy antilag boost when ya bored. That hunting aint what it seems It's me on the throttle keeping the oil there bitches.

http://www.youtube.c..._id=8R2QXeSzOPs

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

just about to start my 25/30 build (25det head.) and i am planning to run it on e85.

has anyone run it on e85 out of curiosity? if so i assume it was safer tunes with more power compared to 98??

(did a quick search and i think only 1 person has)

cheers.

quick note for people who use teh 32 mounts in the 33. the original mounts are 70mm and the 32 mounts are 46, so you are 24 down on the bottom end. the top end you are high about 14mm (38-24). I was able to bring the top end up to 19mm using a aluminium plate which helped make all the cooler pipework line up nicely, however still not clearing the swaybar, so a 10mm plate on the bar should clear it, which should also keep the drive line only out by 19mm,.

Plazmaman Plenum is an issue for bonnet clearance, and the ASR circuit sump equally on the bottom end.

just in regards to my earlier post, there was no way spacing either the bar mounts or engine mounts enough to clear the ASR Competition sump without causing other issues ie, bonnet not closing or bar not working properly. therefore a custom bar had to be made by www.mako.com.au wish I did that first as its only $70 more than the whiteline bar..

i wish I had just got the 800$ baffled one for street/performance use.

Edited by SilverECR33
  • 8 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Same lifters unless the cam has a smaller base circle than the standard cams. You'll need to find the cam specs first.

You will need to check your valve clearance after replacing the cam.

  • 1 month later...

does anyone know what timing tensioner stud is most common to use? & a part number?

i'd call the engine builder that built the block but they are closed down now :)

need to replace mine as the threads looking abit stuffed, its been relocated above the water pump!

cheers

Just get another genuine RB26 tensioner stud. It depends however what thread was cut after the machinist drilled the new hole. You would hope they used the same thread but you'd best check first.

Need one in a hurry? Go to Bunnings and get the right threaded bolt that has the same or longer shank length as the stud that came out, cut off the head of the bolt and cut a new thread on the head end, fixed!

  • 2 months later...

Hey guys
ive had a decent read of this awhile back, but now im actually midway through the build i cant find the part about the head drain and sump mods

just wondering where abouts you can run the head drain from the 25det head.
tap the block where the 25 would normally go on? tap the turbo drain with a large t piece? ( im guessing this is a shit idea due to the crank case pressure affecting the flow)

and the common tap the sump, with this method where is better to tap the sump? up higher/lower? towards the front or rear? cheers.

Oil control thread covers it all.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

Its not a drain, its a breather......

Maybe start from about 10 pages from the end and read forward.

Always above oil level, regardless of drain or breather idea.

Stock turbo oil drain is above oil level, obviously to be a breather it needs to be above the oil level.

Edited by GTRPSI

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