Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

up to you but remember "you get what you pay for"

The classic line.

But this time I have to agree.. I usually don't but in regards to turbo's its really true.

You might as well pay a little extra and get something good, that is known to be good.

Piece of mind, and will probably be proven by other people to be a good quality product, that shows positive results.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180509-turbo/#findComment-3283026
Share on other sites

jeez, 1.32? No boost until end of 2nd gear, beginning of 3rd gear or something?

1.32 isnt TOO bad on a 20b. the exhaust they produce is equivalent to a 3L.

ive seen a few of those turbos die. i think its the oil feed through. if you put this on make sure you get a 6mm oil feed made up for it. everyone i know thats failed has used the standard lines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180509-turbo/#findComment-3283632
Share on other sites

my 2c

Don't buy it :nyaanyaa: I'm with the others:

Manifold - will crack within a few months, face won't be straight, will need a bit of modding to fit

has the tube supporst on the wrong side!!!! so they won't stop it cracking, will need to spend about $150 on welding to actually make sure it doesn't crack, better off spending that money on something decent

Wastegate, looks like an XSPower Tial Copy, they are crap, I've heard of alsorts, mostly stuck spring/wastegate flap, which is bad especially if you are running high boost

Turbo - looks like the "T70 MonstA" off trademe, it's another XSPower styole copy with "geniune garrett internals(yeah right)" and will fall apart, which could take our your engine...

stay well clear, $700 would buy you a Greddy manifold or something similar, I'd then go get one of the highflows off this forum round 1100-1500 with internal gate, or if yuo really want external, buy a tial 38mm or 45mm and get that put on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180509-turbo/#findComment-3283751
Share on other sites

buy a bolt on hiflow and forget the manifold and wastegate. a bush bearing hiflow can be had for under $1000 and will bolt right on and make 250rwkw, it will look stock and retain nissan housings. it may not look "fully sic" bit it will work :nyaanyaa:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180509-turbo/#findComment-3283777
Share on other sites

The guy who bought the kit with the 1.32 ex binned the turbo and fitted a gt35r, the car has been running with the cheap arse manifold and wastegate for 2 years now without cracking the manifold, makes 309rwkw @16psi, the key is to brace the exhaust so the manifold doesnt take the weight

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180509-turbo/#findComment-3284706
Share on other sites

post-17846-1186978755_thumb.jpgpost-17846-1186978709_thumb.jpg

give it a go if you wanna rebuild

manifold will be fine

its the turbz you gotta worry about

did bits of your compressor travel the whole way through your cooler, intake piping, plenum, and into your cylinders? on an RB25?

no way !!

i didnt think that would happen :thumbsup:

Edited by Munkyb0y
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180509-turbo/#findComment-3284758
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...