Transmission Lubricants

[Owens]

Copy and paste from earlier in the thread, you will have quite alot of shockproof left over if only doing both diffs:

Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre]

Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres]

haha nahh I'm doing all the gears. So 4.1L of Shockproof alone for the gearbox.

See my previous posts

[snozzle]

Just put a low km gearbox into my GTR and its all smooth and quiet but ive noticed that when its cold, 2nd gear is abit notchy, not exactly crunchy but not 100% smooth either.

I paid roughly 100 bucks for nulon 75 85 gl4 oil thinking it would do the job great but I dont believe its doing its job very well!

ive been recommended castrol syntrans 75w 85 but its $37 / L ... There is also Castrol VMX-M which is also 75w 85 for $48 for 4L .........

If i do go for the syntrans, will i have smoother shifts or is it simply just a more durable oil ? If its not going to give me better shifts i think im going to stick with the VMX-M.

Both oils are GL-4 btw.

[R31 POWER]

Snozzle. I had redline light weight in the 33 with unknown kms. Smashed in some castrol syntrans or syntrax (the pricey synthetic one) and it was fuxed. All gears felt like crap. Crunching, grinding all with NORMAL driving. So i dumped it ($100 worth of oil) and put in the light weight that i saved

All sweet except it now crunched going into 5th hmmmmm.

Fast forward 8 months or so of this and i had enough Put in new light weight and it's crunched once into 5th in 3months instead of every couple of days. I say no to castrol!!

[CrimsonLey]

Subscribed

[Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR]

Hi Guys,

After reading all 6 pages, I worked out what I will do on my R32 GTR.............

• Engine Oil - I will stick with the Nissan 7.5W/30 Oil
• Transfer Case and ATTESA E-TS PRO Actuator - Nissan Matic D
• Manual Gearbox - Redline Lightweight Shockproof
• Front Differential - Redline Lightweight Shockproof

Rear Differential ----------- This is where I get stuck........

Should I put in the Red Line '80W/140' as Redline recommends or the 75W/90?

I'm worried that the 140 will be too extreme compared to the factory specifications?

Your thoughts?

Thanks,

Bob.

[Duncan]

the redline heavyweight is fine for the rear and front diff, but not realy necessary for street use. I would just run any reasonable LSD oil in them both. Redline go to a lot of trouble to explain that their oil has "special" properties that mean it's SAE rating is misleading.

FWIW, I also would not use redline in the gearbox unless you have noticed some crunching from the synchros. If the gearbox is fine just use a regular gearbox oil. The redline formula was changed in the last 2 years and it now breathes significantly from the box leading to lots of leaks/overflow/top ups even if the box is filled to the correct level. Also redline do not recommend it for gearboxes with synchros.

For the transfer case and actuator, I personally would use Castrol Transmax Z, I have used it extensively without problems, and it is cheaper than the genuine nissan stuff.

And finally...I probably wouldn't use nissan engine oil either - there are lots of better oils out there. Depending on klm on the motor, I'd be using 10w40 or 10w30 in any good fully synthetic oil.

[Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR]

the redline heavyweight is fine for the rear and front diff, but not realy necessary for street use. I would just run any reasonable LSD oil in them both. Redline go to a lot of trouble to explain that their oil has "special" properties that mean it's SAE rating is misleading.

FWIW, I also would not use redline in the gearbox unless you have noticed some crunching from the synchros. If the gearbox is fine just use a regular gearbox oil. The redline formula was changed in the last 2 years and it now breathes significantly from the box leading to lots of leaks/overflow/top ups even if the box is filled to the correct level. Also redline do not recommend it for gearboxes with synchros.

For the transfer case and actuator, I personally would use Castrol Transmax Z, I have used it extensively without problems, and it is cheaper than the genuine nissan stuff.

And finally...I probably wouldn't use nissan engine oil either - there are lots of better oils out there. Depending on klm on the motor, I'd be using 10w40 or 10w30 in any good fully synthetic oil.

Thanks Duncan,

I appreciate the feedback.......

Mark put a complete range of FUCHS oils through my car and I'm not sure if there are better alternatives?

http://www.fuchs.com.au/ProductRange.asp

You know him pretty well. Would you leave it or change?

Car only does 1500 kms per year and NO track work.....

Bob.

[Duncan]

haha well I used to be sponsored by Fuchs so I may not be the best to answer that

With a lightly used car like yours I think any reasonable oils are fine, and that includes Fuchs. If you are having a particular problem then you mught need a specific solution - but if all your fluids have been changed in the last 12 months I would not worry about anything except oil changes for years to come.

[BTC89P]

Hey Guys

I know im probably repeat some stuff but i cant find what im looking for. I have an R33 GTR and looking to do

the manual trans, Transfer, attesa and rear diff. I have a mate that can get me the oils but he just needs to know

the viscosity's for each part any help would be great.

Thanks

Kile

[MoeJones]

R34

4-Door

1998

RB25 DE NEO(non turbo) automatic

any recomendation for

tranny

diff

??

it's a daily driver

been searching all over for this info, maybe someone in this thread knows

[ssxRicho]

Fyi im using

Diff nismo 1.5 - penrite limslip 85w140

Gearbox stock - redline lightweight

Car does 20 ish track days a year. Change it twice.

[privatealpha]

My 25 gearbox would crunch going into 5th gear when loading up 4th.

Changed the oil to Redline Lightweight and it no longer crunches.

Seems to work alright, price is steep though.

[Bulldogjet]

Earlyer someone asked about "smurfs blood"

I use it in my stagea, my mates s15 and my mates r32,

I had issues with 4th gear and after using shockproof light she is smooth.

Since then that's all I use

[Bulldogjet]

Earlyer someone asked about "smurfs blood"

I use it in my stagea, my mates s15 and my mates r32,

I had issues with 4th gear and after using shockproof light she is smooth.

Since then that's all I use

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

what would you guys recomend for an rb25det gearbox that has seen better days? 90-140 or whatever it is???

[Booki]

I have read through this thread several times, and still end up confused on what product of oil i need to put in my GTR's rear/front diff's and transfer case...

Can somebody just tell me exactly what i need to buy from my local supercheap auto/auto barn/repco!

I did my Gearbox oil the other week, and used Castrol VMX-M. Seems all good to far, and shifts a bit smoother then the old oil that was in there!

Please. Somebody, just tell me what i need to buy......!

[ARTZ]

My mechanic changed mine revently to vmx-m when he did my clutch..it previously had vmx-80 with 500ml of nulon n90 additive.

I think it was better before as its a little notchy now...

From what I am told vmx-m was designed to help fix crunchy mitsu boxes..

If it feels a little rough add some n90 it should improve a little..I'm going to have to try Smurf blood next time just out of curiosity

[battery]

My mechanic changed mine revently to vmx-m when he did my clutch..it previously had vmx-80 with 500ml of nulon n90 additive.

I think it was better before as its a little notchy now...

From what I am told vmx-m was designed to help fix crunchy mitsu boxes..

If it feels a little rough add some n90 it should improve a little..I'm going to have to try Smurf blood next time just out of curiosity

I had a notchy rb25 box a while box that I ran vmx80 + g90 in and then swapped to shockproof, vmx80 + G90 felt much better.

Edited July 9, 2012 by battery

[89CAL]

Not sure if I'm going to get some weird looks from this but anyway

Took some inspiration from the VE SS' today and thought I would trial some ATF in the RB25DET Manual box (VE SS 6 spd's run ATF as standard). So far its a bit nicer then the Syntrans I had in there (not bashing the product, it did have a bit of crap through the oil, has served me well before that)

The ATF was free and worth a try so I'll see how its going in a week or two. If its no good might make the switch to Redline or Syntrax. Gearbox was rebuilt only about a year ago with new syncros on 2nd and 4th, but has been crunching 4th for the last few months. So far its not as crunchy, but see what happens over the next week

[Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR]

Ok....... This whole fluids thing has been doing my head in over the last few months.

I had all my fluids replaced about 6 months ago but I'm not happy with some noticeable gear noise within the gearbox/drive train.

I have a JDM R32 GT-R. All Stock with rebuilt gearbox in excellent condition.

I am revisiting the whole thing in line with factory specs. I've spent a fair bit of time trying to tick all the boxes for each component.

After researching all the specs and talking to some gearbox specialists I am flushing EVERYTHING and putting the following in the car:

Engine Oil - Mobil 1 10W/40 HIGH MILEAGE Formulation.

This is not available over the counter in Australia but a guy brings in in from the USA and sells it on Ebay.

Here - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mobil-1-Engine-Oil-High-Mileage-10W40-6-Quart-/180651266349?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0fa7912d

Front Diff - This was tricky. I wanted an 85W/90 weight, non LSD formulation that was compatible with hypoid differentials.

I ended up choosing Liqui Moly Hypoid Oil SAE 85W/90.

Gearbox - I'm going to try Penrite Transaxle 75. It's a 75W/90 Semi Synthetic premium performance oil.

I'm happy to compromise a little bit of smoothness in the shifting for a quieter drivetrain which I've been told may occur.... (I'm hoping)

Rear Diff - I'm going for Penrite Limslip 90 which is a 80W/90 LSD gear oil.

Transfer Case and Actuator - Nissanmatic D. I'm not interested in taking risks so I'm just going to fill it with the OEM recommendations.

This is all happening on Thursday so I'll let you all know how it goes.

If anyone thinks I'm committing suicide please let me know before then.

Cheers,

Bob.