Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NISMO PROTO GTX-1 2500R

(IVE BEEN MEANING TO GET THIS UP FOR AGES - APOLOGIES FOR THE DELAY !!)

HERE IS NISSAN'S / NISMO'S / OMORI FACTORY'S (WELL MINE ACTUALLY) 1993/1995 R33 SKYLINE PROTOTYPE SINGLE TURBO 2.5 LITRE REAR WHEEL DRIVE 4 WHEEL STEER NO ABS SPORTS COUPE "BITUMAN SNIFFING" STRAIGHT SIX THAT PROVED TOO POWERFUL FOR A JAPANESE DOMESTIC MARKET RELEASE. ONLY 3 OF THESE EACH HAVING SLIGHTLY DIFFERING SPECIFICATIONS WERE BUILT WITH THIS CAR PRODUCTION "NO. 2" (P002) THE ONLY COMPLETE AND INTACT EXAMPLE KNOWN TO EXIST.

BEST SUITED TO WIDE OPEN SPACES THIS CAR COMES INTO ITS OWN AT AROUND 170KPH (TOP SPEED 285KPH) WHERE ITS IMPECCABLE BALANCE OF RAW POWER AND CRISP "POINT & SHOOT" RESPONSIVE HANDLING CAN BE CONSISTENTLY ADMIRED ENJOYED AND RESPECTED.

POWER - 460PS

POWER - AT THE REAR WHEELS - 273.8KW

POWER - AT THE FLYWHEEL - 375KW

POWER TO WEIGHT RATIO - 0.19KW/KG

ENGINE HARDWARE:

RB-X GT 1 BLOCK - NISMO INTERNALS - 600CC NISMO INJECTORS - GT-R FUEL RAIL AND INJECTOR CRADLE - CARBON FIBRE COLD AIR INTAKE WITH APEXI AIR FILTER - TRUST TD05 JOURNAL BUSH TURBO CHARGER - CUSTOM NISMO INTERCOOLER - EXTRUDE HONED PLENUM - PLUMB BACK BLOW OFF VALVE - NISMO 4.2L PER MIN. FUEL PUMP - SPLITFIRE IGNITION SYSTEM - APEXI POWER FC ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM - GREDDY PROFEC SPEC B II BOOST CONTROLLER - OIL COOLER - 3IN FRONT PIPE - 3IN STRAIGHT THROUGH MANDREL BENT EXHAUST SYSTEM WITH 4IN FUJITSUBO CANNON - Z32 AIR FLOW METER - APEXI ELECTRONIC BOOST GUAGE.

DRIVETRAIN:

GT-R GEAR SET - EXEDY CERAMIC 3 PUCK CLUTCH AND LIGHT WEIGHT FLYWHEEL - GT-R AXLES - NISMO 1.5 LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL WITH 4.4 FINAL DRIVE RATIO.

SUSPENSION / BRAKES:

BILSTEIN TRACK SHOCK ABSORBERS FRONT AND REAR WITH TANABE SPORT SPRINGS (LOWERED 20MM) - GT-R STRUT BRACES AND SWAY BARS FRONT AND REAR - BREMBO GT-R BRAKE CALIPERS WITH DBA 5000 SLOTTED ROTORS FRONT AND REAR - NISMO MASTER CYLINDER BRACE - ENDLESS COMPETITION BRAKE PADS.

WHEELS AND TYRES:

17IN X 9IN R33 GT-R WHEELS - DUNLOP SPEC-R 245/45/17 TYRES.

BODYWORK:

NISSAN GUNMETAL PAINTWORK (KH2) - GT-R STYLE FRONT BAR LIP AND GRILLE - GANADOR AERO MIRRORS - GT-R REAR WING ASSEMBLY WITH N1 CARBON FIBRE BLADE - BADGES DECALS AND IDENTIFICATION PLATES BEARING "NISSAN" "OMORI FACTORY" "NISMO" "GTX-1" "2500R" "RB-X GT 1" "P002" AND "PROTO".

INTERIOR:

GT-R FRONT AND REAR SEATS - NISMO STEERING WHEEL GEAR KNOB AND PEDALS - APEXI REV/SPEED METER - GREDDY TURBO TIMER - DEFI OIL/WATER TEMP/PRESSURE GUAGES - KENWOOD KDC 2020 HEAD UNIT WITH 600W AMPLIFIER FRONT SPLITS MIDS/TWEETERS REAR PARCEL SHELF 2 WAY MIDS AND BOOT MOUNTED 10IN SUB WOOFER.

WELL I GUESS THATS ABOUT IT...... OH YEAH !.....

SORRY - BUT ITS NOT FOR SALE :down:

CHEERS MALCOLM :D

post-9783-1208757733_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208759372_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208759749_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208760061_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208760410_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208761168_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208761710_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208776274_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208762118_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208762262_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208766628_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208766885_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208767672_thumb.jpg post-9783-1208767805_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208769982_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208768097_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208768231_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208768362_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208772495_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208768563_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208768687_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208814951_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208815107_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208815308_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208815469_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208816112_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208816635_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208816274_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208816413_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208822281_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208829175_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208829527_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208829736_thumb.jpgpost-9783-1208832835_thumb.jpg

post-9783-1208761928_thumb.jpg

Edited by malcolm
  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215823-nismo-proto-gtx-1-2500r/
Share on other sites

wasnt this car featured in High performance imports very recently ? Lucky owner...wish I had it

Sure was - have had lots of requests to make use of the great pics Dean from HPI took and get it up on SAU for those who didnt see the magazine - malcolm - :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...