Building An Rb26 For Response....

[Ben C34]

I like the way the rb26 response thread has turned into have to build a stroker!

Took longer than I thought it would.

[Badgaz]

Imagine if you can lifting the head on your car 38mm, that is the problem with the RB30 block, the high deck setup lifts it 20mm, the BC kit leaves it where it is

BC kit 2.9ltr

RIPs is 3ltrs

Nitto is 3.2ltrs

The BC and type R poncams is the best option for what you want alround, but wait and see what Jim wants to tell you ( 3.2ltr kit as he is part owner of Nitto iirc ) and get a costing for it

Then contact Power Tune and get a costing for the BC kit, by the you will have a price from Rob so you can better decide what to do

RIPS can do 3litr or 3.2....most of the last few big engines they've built have been 3.2ltre.

[The real NISMO1]

Imagine if you can lifting the head on your car 38mm, that is the problem with the RB30 block, the high deck setup lifts it 20mm, the BC kit leaves it where it is

BC kit 2.9ltr

RIPs is 3ltrs

Nitto is 3.2ltrs

The BC and type R poncams is the best option for what you want alround, but wait and see what Jim wants to tell you ( 3.2ltr kit as he is part owner of Nitto iirc ) and get a costing for it

Then contact Power Tune and get a costing for the BC kit, by the you will have a price from Rob so you can better decide what to do

I am talking to Rob/Rips in NZ and waiting for a 2nd reply, at this stage he said what I said, if I do not know what I am doing and want it hassle free then get all the work done on site. A very honest reply and I am waiting for him to answer the email I just sent him. Seems like a very honest bloke

It is good to have you blokes around, thanks

[XKLABA]

RIPS can do 3litr or 3.2....most of the last few big engines they've built have been 3.2ltre.

That doesn't surprise me as there isnt much difference in building a 30 to a 3.2, what would be interesting to know is if he makes his own 3.2 or buys and fits the Nitto kit or some other premade kit

[scotty nm35]

I like the way the rb26 response thread has turned into have to build a stroker!

Took longer than I thought it would.

^^ This.

VL thread is up the top there.

[Sinista32]

Also this re: Building an RB26 for response going off-topic

I am interested in the intended purpose of building this 3.2 torque monster

Just because have the money to build this I am uncertain if your going to be happy driving it.

I'd try and get a drive in same or similar car first.

Everyone is talking block build what else in the drive train is planned. Also Fuel supply, braking, Engine management etc..

For this sort of build plan I have to quote a line in a FnF movie

"It's not how you stand by your car, it's how you race your car"

[Duncan]

Ironic that this thread started with a post about going off topic...and yet here we are again!

Anyway, a quick comment on this:

Imagine if you can lifting the head on your car 38mm, that is the problem with the RB30 block, the high deck setup lifts it 20mm, the BC kit leaves it where it is

BC kit 2.9ltr

RIPs is 3ltrs

Nitto is 3.2ltrs

The BC and type R poncams is the best option for what you want alround, but wait and see what Jim wants to tell you ( 3.2ltr kit as he is part owner of Nitto iirc ) and get a costing for it

Then contact Power Tune and get a costing for the BC kit, by the you will have a price from Rob so you can better decide what to do

There is a much more important difference in the RB30/OS Giken 3l/GTRNUR versus a stroked crank in a standard RB26 block.

One of the biggest weaknesses in the rb26 setup even from standard is the high rod/stroke ratio which means that poor little piston is rocking back and forth in the cylinder at a million miles an hour compared to taller engines where they spend more time going up and down with less angle.

Putting a 2.8/2.8 or god forbid even 2.9 crank into an rb26 block exacerbates this issue. The engine is less efficient and wears more. Putting a taller block in helps reduce the problem

[XKLABA]

Ironic that this thread started with a post about going off topic...and yet here we are again!Anyway, a quick comment on this:There is a much more important difference in the RB30/OS Giken 3l/GTRNUR versus a stroked crank in a standard RB26 block.One of the biggest weaknesses in the rb26 setup even from standard is the high rod/stroke ratio which means that poor little piston is rocking back and forth in the cylinder at a million miles an hour compared to taller engines where they spend more time going up and down with less angle.Putting a 2.8/2.8 or rajab forbid even 2.9 crank into an rb26 block exacerbates this issue. The engine is less efficient and wears more. Putting a taller block in helps reduce the problem

And I theory this is correct, but how does it translate Into the real world where practical rules, IIRC the powertune R34 had the 2.9 and made some big power and as far as I'm aware still running, just no longer in the that R34, as well as that GTRNURs RB31.5 would have had a similar rod/stroke ratio which is essentianally the same as an SR20 and all of which make good power and times and don't wear out in a 1000km like people make out will happen with these rod/stroke ratios, in the real world the difference is just BS

[Duncan]

well I don't think it's that simple, a couple of cars making lots of power for a few klm isn't really the whole story. I'm sure you've seen the same, every time I pull down an rb26 with a few klm on it there is plenty of sideways wear on the bore.

hell when it comes down to it you can even fit a rb30 crank into an rb26 block with a little clearancing, but it's just not good for a long and happy engine life.

[Piggaz]

OS GIKEN 3.0 138.35/86. RS ratio = 1.608

RB 30 is 152.7/85 = 1.79

Tomei 2.8: 119.5/77.7 = 1.53

Stock is 121.5/73.7 = 1.648

Duncan, how many kms is "a few kms"? 50,000? 100,000, 200,000?

[XKLABA]

I didn't think the 26 bore had enough length for the 30 stroke which is the idea of the 20mm spacer and longer sleeves, Ian put a modified 30 crank into the 26 block with SR rods and I'm sure he did quiet a few KMs with that setup and when pulled down it showed very little wear IIRC, a loose bore will wear quicker then a short rod ratio correctly sized

[XKLABA]

OS GIKEN 3.0 138.35/86. RS ratio = 1.608

RB 30 is 152.7/85 = 1.79

Tomei 2.8: 119.5/77.7 = 1.53

Stock is 121.5/73.7 = 1.648

Duncan, how many kms is "a few kms"? 50,000? 100,000, 200,000?

Can you do the BC kit and Ian's to please, though I think he has his calculated already on his build thread, and the SR20 for shits and giggles

[Ben C34]

What will sound better though?

[Piggaz]

Can't find the 2.9 rod length. I can only assume it would be around the 118.5 to 120 mark depending on pin height.

Ian's is 136.3/90 ( I think it's a 90 mm crank off the top if my head) = 1.514

For what it's worth, after 36,000 km in my stroker the pistons and bores almost brand new. Too much theory, text book reading and not enough STFU and drive it. Refresh the engine at 100,000 kms. That's prob 10 years worth of driving for most people in a GTR. By then most won't even own the car.... Or it's turned a bearing so it needs to be done anyway.

[GTRPSI]

Rod stroke ratio can play a big part in it.

Recently ive looked inside 3 engine at the bores and pistons, all 1000+ Hp motors, a RB28 stroker, a 2JZ 3.4 stroker and a RB30 standard stroke.

Both the strokers showed excessive side wall loading wear on the bores and pistons on the thrust side, right about in the middle of the piston travel point in the bores, the RB30 looked the least wear by a long shot.

Until i had seen it i wouldn't have believed how much of a difference it makes.....

[zebra]

All clearances the same?

[r32-25t]

What will sound better though?

the 3L

[XKLABA]

the 3L

This, with 4" exhaust and a loud as fark Weldon fuel pump, sounds the tits

[Piggaz]

That's just noise of pump.... Nothing else

[Lithium]

Rod stroke ratio can play a big part in it.

Recently ive looked inside 3 engine at the bores and pistons, all 1000+ Hp motors, a RB28 stroker, a 2JZ 3.4 stroker and a RB30 standard stroke.

Both the strokers showed excessive side wall loading wear on the bores and pistons on the thrust side, right about in the middle of the piston travel point in the bores, the RB30 looked the least wear by a long shot.

Until i had seen it i wouldn't have believed how much of a difference it makes.....

Glad you mentioned that. I have for ages discussed, theorised and observed certain affects from different cars which would have different rod angles with some other aspects pretty similar and while a lot of people would (and do) convincingly argue that the r/s ratio doesn't have that much of an effect and certain things (ie, dwell time at TDC and peak acceleration) *seem* trivial I am seeing patterns that suggest these little bits have definite tangible effects on a lot of things. The funny thing though is on the other hand, most of the time people can't really tell the difference and if you hadn't seen the bore damage or any of the other pro's and con's that people debate about weren't spotted under analytical eyess - would they have really mattered?

I personally so far am sold as on the old proven RB30DET, a lot cheaper than going a stroker - have an awesome R/S ratio, sound awesome, strong as, and generally have more positives versus negatives than the other options.... at least in my opinion.