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From my experience: I didn't watch the water and oil temps on my car (too busy driving it around SMSP south), but both water and oil temps were at the danger end. I watched fatz's car (has a fancy Haltech display) go hot, the oil temps got pretty high (120+°C), and the water temps rose to beyond 95°C.

My car is standard engine (including the sad little radiator). If you have separated the coolant thingy at the oil filter block then maybe it's less of an issue. Or, less of an issue if your coolant system is up to scratch!

Better to have a working oil temp gauge though.

I think an oil cooler and temp guage would be an idea as I plan to do more track days. The coolant temp, on stock guage went up towards the end of the day when I went to Marulan a couple of years back but since then have upgraded the radiator to a PWR 50 something mm radiator and have some decent Nulon coolant. Hoping the higher speeds of SMP can help with temps also. Sorry to be a little off topic.

Thought that may have been the case. I run an oil cooler so I doubt my temps would ever get too high.

Perhaps you are better off not knowing. :P

Mine hit 150 degree oil temps at the last Sandown trackday, in 30 degree weather, and I use a 30 row oil cooler with a 14 inch thermo running flat out.

Perhaps you are better off not knowing. :P

Mine hit 150 degree oil temps at the last Sandown trackday, in 30 degree weather, and I use a 30 row oil cooler with a 14 inch thermo running flat out.

Haha shit. I'd say that'd be about the limit you'd want to reach on a quality oil wouldn't it?

How many laps would it generally take you to hit that temp Scotty?

3-4 laps. lol. It would be much better at keeping the temps under control if the ambient temperature was lower.

I think the alloy block and piston squirter design helps transfer more heat into the oil, and it does run massive oil pressure... I guess it just needs a larger/secondary cooler if I want to track it again.

  • Like 1

Thought that may have been the case. I run an oil cooler so I doubt my temps would ever get too high.

running a 30 row oil cooler

water stays at 85-90 while oil get above 105 and rises... will be running a 2nd oil cooler on the passenger side

drift not grip though

Edited by Dan_J
  • Like 1

Any of you guys used Motul 8100 X-Max 10W-40?

I've been looking long and hard for ACEA rating/specifications on this oil however they only seem to supply API ratings. On the American Motul site i believe they list the 0W-40 (or similar) as having ACEA A3/B4 but cannot find any more information on the 10W-40 variant.

hey all, im a complete novice when it comes to cars and oils, ive done some research and looked through this thread a bit but still cant fine any exact info on what oils i should buy, mainly because i have a 34 GT-Four (NA 4WD model) which theres not heaps of info on and im still not sure exactly what my driveline parts are

so far im thinking,

Engine: Not Sure engine is a RB25DE NEO

Diffs: Castrol LSX90 (although a guy a supercheap talked me into getting Nulon 80W-90)

Gearbox: Nulon smooth shift 75w-85

Transfer case: Nissan Matic D

ATTESSA: Nissan power steering fluid 'special' (the only fluid Nissan recommends, NOT ATF).

i think borth my diffs are LSD but not sure and im unsure if my gearbox is the same a RB20/25DET or 33 GTR

also not sure how much oil i need,

engine 4-5L?

diffs 2L each?

gearbox 4L?

transfer case no idea?

​any help would be much appreciated

hey all, im a complete novice when it comes to cars and oils, ive done some research and looked through this thread a bit but still cant fine any exact info on what oils i should buy, mainly because i have a 34 GT-Four (NA 4WD model) which theres not heaps of info on and im still not sure exactly what my driveline parts are

so far im thinking,

Engine: Not Sure engine is a RB25DE NEO

Diffs: Castrol LSX90 (although a guy a supercheap talked me into getting Nulon 80W-90)

Gearbox: Nulon smooth shift 75w-85

Transfer case: Nissan Matic D

ATTESSA: Nissan power steering fluid 'special' (the only fluid Nissan recommends, NOT ATF).

i think borth my diffs are LSD but not sure and im unsure if my gearbox is the same a RB20/25DET or 33 GTR

also not sure how much oil i need,

engine 4-5L?

diffs 2L each?

gearbox 4L?

transfer case no idea?

​any help would be much appreciated

Engine - 5L of semi-synthetic 10W-40 will be fine

Gearbox - any good 75w-90 gearbox oil that says its good for synchros will do

Diffs - I think the front is 1L and the rear is 1.5 to 2L? Any good gearbox oil will do, unless its LSD in which case you need something suitable for the LSD type

Transfer case - any ATF will do the trick, not sure on quantity

ATTESA - as far as I know it just needs to be incompressible and provide a bit of lubrication so any kind of P/S fluid or ATF should be fine.

thanks for the help, any idea where i can get the proper ATTESA fluid from Nissan, ive had a search and cant find any hits only people saying its rather expensive. would a Nissan dealer stock it?

i just found this on some other threads, might help some other people,

For fluids the manual recommends
Transfer case (page CH-59) - 1.8 litres of Nissanmatic fluid D [approx. 1.8 litres]
Manual transmission (page CH-23) - Nissan gear oil MP-G special GL-4 #75-90 [approx 4.1 lites]
Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre]
Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres]

and also

Have a document from Nissan NZ, which came from Mr.K.Shindo of Nissan Japan.

It outlines his thoughts on fluids that should not be replaced by aftermarket products.

1. Transfer case fluid
Nissan Matic D is strongly requested because high torque is applied to transfer unit.

2.. Transfer case (ATTESA E-TS-PRO Actuator) : It is not acceptable to use DEXRON III fluid.
> Only Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special use is required.

Today I received the technical information from our design department.

1. The difference between the DEXRON III and Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special

The viscosity characteristic of Power Steering Fluid Special is lower than that of ATF DEXRON III and the resistance to wear is also improved. Each viscosity is the same level at 100 deg.C and the former viscosity is designed to have the lower value for under 100 deg.C than the latter viscosity.

This characteristic is aimed to rotate an oil pump located in ATTESA PRO
actuator easily at the extremely low temperature (Around -30 deg.C or -40 deg.C)

2. What will happen if a customer puts DEXRON II or DEXRON III into the ATTESA PRO actuator reservoir in the trunk ?

The 4WD performance will be largely decreased at the low temperature because the viscosity value of DEXRON II or III is extremely high compared to that of Power Steering Fluid Special ;

As the rising characteristic of 4WD torque transfer becomes worse, it takes the longer time to transfer the driving torque to the front wheels. There is a possibility that the 4WD cannot be achieved in the worst case.

So I would use Dex3 no worries. If it means the 4wd might not work as good when cold who cares,you shouldn't thrash when cold anyway, and Importsonly is driving an NA so its not like it puts hardly any power through to the front ever.

Edited by superben

yeaha thats true, but im pretty sure Nissan recommends the Matic D for the Atessa and the power steering as well so it might be worth just getting the one 6l bottle of that since i found one for $70

  • 2 months later...

can anyone recommend some oil or additive to quiet down a falcon with piston slap, has this to some degree 100% of the time, I am using fully synthetic Valvoline 10w 40 with 1L of Lucus oil stabiliser,

wondering if I should go that thick penrite 20w 70 or not.

Edited by AngryRB

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