Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep Kel is off in the morning to do it mx5 style again.

And you can redrill those holes for sure....the knurls are only there to stop it turning when the wheelnut is going on, the thread does all the clamping work.

Thanks Mr "unf**kingsubscribed" :) Definitely dumber from reading that thread,.

EDIT: And best of luck to all those having a crack at TWP this weekend. Have a fast, fun safe one.

Just don't use cheap studs. Cheap studs have soft knurles and have a tendency to spin in the hub. And bind on the threads. It's no fun trying to undo a nut off a turning thread.

I'll be interested to see if kell only drinks 2 days worth of drink rather than the 5 days worth she drinks after TT

Edited by DJRIFT

Fellas,

little tech question. I have a minor issue where the front studs on the mazda are 12x1.5 thread and the studs on the floater rear are .5" unf. Ideally I would like to run the same thread/wheelnut front and rear. I guess the preference would be to go for the larger .5" stud all round. Have looked around and there aren't any studs I can find with the right sized knurl to be a press in option for the front hub in the .5" thread. Am guessing its not possible to get the knurling on the hub remachined to a bigger size (havent really looked into it) so my other option was to tap a thread through and go a screw in (loctite) .5" cro mo stud on the front. Any downsides to screw in?

Any thoughts

edit: seems you can drill new holes to the correct size (.007" undersize of the knurl) and press in new studs. Probably the answer.

just further to this Blaise, I suggest running longer than normal studs too. Look at long studs that drag racers favour (and some classes require). Using an open-ended nut, the wheel stud protrudes right through it, allowing you to easily see at a glance they are in fact done up, AND allows vice grips on the stud if you ever have a siezed nut.

^^^^ Cheers all. Was looking at the ARP Cro Mo studs. Figure they should be up to the task. Similarly woo was going to go a bit longer and get the quick start nose on them for nascar spec wheel changes :)

^^^^ Nice tip. Thanks. That will be the next thing to chase once the studs are sorted.

Seems i cant get a press fit stud to suit the mazda hub (shoulders are too big or knurl dia to big making the holes get dangerously close to the outside edge.

Looks like I will stick with 12x1.5 on the front but goa longer quick start nose cro mo jobbie and change the rear hubs to match. If that stud size is good enough for gazzilion horsepower GTRs it should be sweet for me. :)

Testament to a good YT cage. Driver spent a night in hospital (took his HANS off in the morning cause it was too uncomfortable), and the nav has a broken pelvis. But the doors still open and close! I'd hate to think what shape they'd be in with a shitty TMR bolt in cage.

post-5985-0-43680700-1359968699_thumb.jpg

^^^^ Hearing you. Just not the area you want to cut corners on. Bolt ins just should be an option for tarmac rally. Similarly, would not run without a HANS and side supporting seats. Unrelated, but I remember getting both front teeth knocked out as a kid playing hockey cause I took my mouth guard out for 5 mins cause it was pissing me off. Be gutted if you ran without your HANS and busted your neck or had massive head trauma. Bit like feeling like a tool for wearing your race suit at less than big events.....but would be a proper muppet if that was the event your car decided to burst into flames in.

And re the event, only managed to follow in the virtual world, but hats off to Rickards for what looked like an epic drive. And the captain for putting away all but the lambo. Farkin allright for a hairdressers car. :) Seems this fella in the 240z in classic can pedal as well. Pretty dominant drive.

Always like to think the best of other competitors... (I was one of the gullible f**ks that thought Lance Armstrong might have been clean... ) i reckon it seems they are relative new comers to the sport. (as I am) I reckon you definitely find more speed as you get a better handle on where to find the speed easily and where it isn't worth trying for it. Maybe just finding their mojo a bit. Seems they had some good pace on seasoned campaigners like Todd and Garwood. No doubt it must be a nice bit of gear as well. Be interesting to see if Rex comes back for TT.

Yeah sorry, didnt mean to insinuate that. To be honest with the very open rules in classic, I am not sure that you can :) But must have been a surprise to some of the more established crews. have definitely raised the bar. I am guessing just a new crew that have really taken to it. There must be a heap of undiscovered talent out there.

Edited by Darkside

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...