Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Head was fully reconditioned but no porting was done. Tomei type B valve springs and new bronze exhaust guide inserts. Grex 264/9.3 cams. Tomei cam gears.

25psi boost.

BP 98 fuel.

Built and tunned by Jim at Dart Automotive.

It has plenty of response and mid range. Very happy with it.

Tim.

post-224-1286265041_thumb.jpg

This is my build thread but it hasnt been updated with new dyno graph above.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/32...ld-t320793.html

Edited by R32 Zilla
good work, its definately got a 10 in it with a good driver :down:

definitely!

i did an 11.1 with 320awkw (if i changed into 4th across the finish line & not hit the limiter in 3rd, it would have been a 10)

with 390awkw it is well truly a mid 10

good work, its definately got a 10 in it with a good driver :down:

Give us a chance! haha. I only got 3 runs the other night before it rained and it was called off. I was getting faster with each run. We were slowly dropping tyre pressures. Got an 11.21 @130 on the last run with a 1.78 60ft. As some of you know its not as easy once you get up around this power especially on street tyres. With my old motor it was just a case of giving it everything to reach its potential. But yea it is easily capable of a mid to high 10 with either some more practise on street tyres or a simple tyre change would get me there.

This is no drag set up though. If I wanted it to be faster over 400m I would have chose different turbos/turbo and made 500kw which this motor could easilly handle. I chose the -5's for response on the street and for hill climbs and the circuit etc. I like corners.

Oh and the 390kw is RWKW not AWKW Marko. I dont think that makes a lot of difference but lets not start that debate again haha.

Tim.

i ran 10.98 @ 130.7 mph with 405awkw, on old street tyres, federal 595s. and worn out os giken clutch,

last week with 285kw stockis R32 GTR just power fc,exh, steel wheel turboes, 3/4 tank of fuel, spare wheel, jack, all interior in etc ran 11.7 @ 118mph on my 2nd run, got booted out cause i didnt want to renew my ANDRA licence,

i spent over 45g on my last GTR to get 10.98, my new GTR i have spent maybe 4g, big difference in costs to get from mid 11s into the 10s

oh and i didnt mean to start a big war on rwkw to awkw :P

Just a question that is kind of related to here; in my quest to get to 400kW :(... does anyone know if you can use Supertech bronze manganese valve guides with Ferrea oversize valves? Ferrea don't make any for the RB26 apparantly.

Just a question that is kind of related to here; in my quest to get to 400kW :(... does anyone know if you can use Supertech bronze manganese valve guides with Ferrea oversize valves? Ferrea don't make any for the RB26 apparantly.

I dont see any reason why you couldnt.

I may actually be able to join this list very soon!! things are finally looking good! tho it may be steves 500kw club!

i will be going GTRS on a built 2.6, 280 10.8's, E85, CR box with as much boost as it will allow 2 bar close.. then back it off to keep things together haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...