Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Manual Conversion?

zei20l

By zei20l,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Series 2 you mean?

There is no gearbox other than the RE5 that bolts up to our orphan, I need to swap the sump so the bolts line up on the 350x box, and the starter fits. There is a lot of mechanical work before I even get to the electronic side. :/

The 350S was a series one car...

Sounds like a lot of work. Don't envy you. Starter gets moved to the other side, right?

  • Replies 223
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

M35woah
M35woah

Couple of things I don't agree with. If you're ganna get cut about the resale of yo modified car doesn't that defeat the whole modifying purpose in the first place? When I buy shit for the car I don

Beregron
Beregron

I have nothing to add if people intend on staying AWD but i'm hoping that by this time next week my M35 will be for all intent purposes 6sp manual rwd. Few tricks along the way but it seems to be near

Brick
Brick

agree whole heartedly. plus they way i look at it the only better wagon in the world is an Audi RS6 which is damn expensive so spending a few grand to make it compare with an RS6 is worth it as i stil

Posted Images

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

3 times what I spent on the 350z box though. To fit the R34 gtr box you would either need the floor pan modified extensively and a new gearbox support made, or the transfer case would need to be spaced out 200mm or so off the back of the box.

Add that to the adapter required for RB to VQ, and buying a new twin plate Nismo clutch... I just can't afford it. :/

wht510 Experienced

wht510

Posted
Posted

Floor pan mods are fairly straight forward, but tricky when you have to remove seats, carpet, sound deadener, looms, and then fit them all back...

Gearbox support is fairly straight forward, as a hybrid can be made between the GTR/Stagea

Custom Tailshaft required ($$$)

Gearbox Adapter would be a PITA to make from scratch, but can be bought for $,$$$...

You would have to use the GTR drive shaft to the stag diff (or get a custom one made)

Would take a fair bit of time and dollars including the purchase of the box itself.

Not to mention getting the ATTESSA clutch oil pump and all the other stuff working.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Why not Rwd ?

Massage the guards to fit some wider rubber

350z box and id say twin turbs if it has created more space presto

The rear guards will actually take quite large rubber; it has always been the limitations in the front (to keep ATTESSA happy) that have dictated the rear tyre sizes.

IIRC, several years ago, whilst auditioning rims; bbenny had 19x10.5s under the rear of his.

The only reason they didn't stay, was the issues with the ATTESSA going bezerk due to rolling dia differences with the front 19x9's & mismatched tyres.

TM35 Contributor

TM35

Posted
Posted

Daleo 10.5" rear bags....

Interesting...

Well then

Apart from having total control being manual.transmission.

Myself the idea of a motec harnessing the full potential of the vq25det without that killjoy auto tranny ecu would prove irresistible.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Want to buy my 350z box and Nismo twin plate coppermix clutch now Toby? :P

I will get around to it eventually, one day when I am bored. Still searching for manual V35 interior parts... I am contemplating just using the 350z console and adapting the handbrake to work. Not sure what it would look like though.

Hertz Donut Proficient

Hertz Donut

Posted
Posted

I've always thought if I decide to heavily modify my PNM35 I'd just go RWD and 350Z manual box, but you really have to weigh up the cost of getting the car to a state you're happy with in terms of fit and finish vs the cost of sourcing and bringing in an Autech 350S. I guess you guys in Aussie have to worry about complaince though so it's probably not an option for you.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

The nice Autechs fetch a tidy price. And your stuck with the shitty dash, not our nice one.

The cheaper ones are flogged out, I think its much better getting a S2 and converting. Even better if you have a RWD S2 car.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...