Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Not sure if trolling :huh: Either way, pretty sure we had a yarn on this very topic almost a year ago you were talking camshaft design, I remember wondering if you were really listening to my side of the conversation or not. Perhaps I have my answer to that? :whistling:

Production line style tuning can work it lots of cases, especially if applied to identical setups but I tend to be a bit more fussy/cautious about it and prefer to not tell people or apply rules blindly to every setup everywhere without some forethought or testing to ensure things are definitely going to turn out the way intended - but that is just me. The car would at the very least need to be retuned to suit a drastic change like this, imho.

No I'm serious, the "guy" I recommended these settings to was Hypergear who has a stock engine with stock cams as far as I have read

This why I said try these settings because I have tried and tested all different setting with stock RB26 engines and these are good for response with mid-top end on a stock production engine and this was intended as a good starting point to try

I didn't recommend these to some random dude on a forum but to Hypergear and will add Blackers to this, I assumed Hypergear who build turbos for a living and does everything on a dyno and Blackers who if I'm right is affiliated with MoTec somehow would automaticly understand that these need to be set from a corrected 0deg and should be done then tested on a dyno, are you saying that was wrong on my behalf and that I should have spelled that out to them ?

We probably did have this discussion but as you said it was about cam designing and not stock cams, the fact I don't remember could be a couple of reasons, 1 it was about a year ago and I have a lot going on and don't remember every conversation I have on a forum or 2, I thought about what you said and dismissed it as wrong and moved on

As for these settings they where given to enhance a stock engine not a highly modified highly strung race weapon with custom cams and will work with any stock camed RB26 head regardless of the bottom end providing the base cam timing is +/- 2 deg from 0

and again I have been reminded I should bother trying to help anyone cause clearly I have no idea and the results I have gotten from my cars was just a fluke and the 32 I managed to do before ever stepping foot into SAU so I'm still not sure how that could have happened or even been possible

This is the last post I will post in this thread in regards to this matter if you want to continue this take it to PM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

keep calm and boost on! :) on a side note and hopefully dragging it back to hypergear thread.... i'll be recieving my atr43ss2 in the next week or two and getting the fabrication work done towards the end of October, Then it'll be on the dyno to see what my old donk will do. A question for those who have done it. would there be any 'noticable' benefit to using adjustable cam gears on stock cams for an RB25det.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can fit a adjustable exhaust cam gear for very slight gains. As for the intake you cant because of the vct.

The stock vct gear is adjustable, but from the back. You have to take it off to adjust it.

I made a thing so it can be adjusted from the front, then found out it had already been made by others years ago and isn't much use anyway.

Edited by Ben C34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

recieved my ATR43ss2 today, can't wait to get it fabricated up. One question, the CHRA has four waterfeed/returns. 2 have bolts in them and the other 2 plastic bungs...how should i hook these up properly?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oil feed from block

oil return to sump

water in

water out

just follow the stock lines easy, I hope you've asked for Tao's optional oil feed line.. makes fitting much easier.

I also bought the Kando dim sim yum cha braided water line set off eBay - makes fitting much easier than using the stock lines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i've taken the plugs off...one is shallow which i think is return and one is deep which i think is feed. I'm guessing this is so the turbo can be mounted on either side of the engine e.g for exhaust on other side of engine like toyota.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the plug supplied, plug up two of the holes and connect waters to any of the two that are open. Alternatively you can remove the plug and run it oil cooled only. The thread fitting on them is M14x1.5

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spent some time this weekend evaluating the SS Alpha turbos on the GTR. First thing to notice is the Rb26dett engine do require an large exhaust side to run, It chocked the engine after 5000RPM using the combination of the SS2 turbine wheel in .82 housing.

slss3front.jpg

it was replaced it with an large 76mm turbine that I've made for high flows, that worked pretty sweet. The engine bay was noticeably cooler also.

turbo.jpg

Looking abit more serious now :rolleyes: .

carfront.jpg

podon.jpg

Because the effect of quart throttle, the car has an throw-out effect on throttle movement, this makes an laggy turbo feels not as obvious. The VNT system have made an noticeable torque increase down low, especially on partial throttle opening. This is a bigger turbo compare to the Sl20.5, but definitely feels more responsive to drive. Be interested to see what the dyno says in about a week, I'm currently waiting for some coil packs to turn up from Japan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Came across these Ganador reps and am wondering if anyone has used these/come across these ?  Seem to look like reasonably good replicas (shape wise) from what I can see. Ive been told by them that they are moulded to be exact copies of original Ganadors (but thats what every replica version will say) https://www.shiftperformance.com.au/ganador-style-mirrors-suits-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr Photos of them installed appreciated Thanks 👍
    • lol, yeah, and how gutted I am now I’m back over in Europe (actual Europe) and dealing with the nightmare of U.K.-Continental Europe bureaucracy.   Anyway, arrived in NL early January with the BMW, whilst the Skyline followed suit about a week later. Both cars ended up stuck with their relative importers for about six weeks. Since then, I made a trip to the Nurburgring with a friend and have since ditched the Skyline in the garage. This week, I finally managed to find a suitable shop to do an alignment so hopped on over to Germany to fix the miserable mess the local Netherlands shop conducted; the car was just not aggressive enough in the rear for my driving style - I found myself understeering a fair bit at the ring which was really a first for me with this car. Mis-matched F&R tyres can be held partly responsible - have now moved to F+R NS2Rs. One thing I’ve noticed is the 180kph limiter just does not cut it here. I quickly hit that (for the first time) in Germany on the autobahn. Japanese circuits are small - at least the ones that were near me. I rarely spent much time in 4th. After much deliberation with the HKS SLD, I have ordered Nistune from Matt. Whilst the Skyline has been gathering dust I got to learning the highly neglected BMW I bought in the U.K. was in fact just that, highly neglected. Took the ol’ dog down to Switzerland last weekend with a progressively deteriorating front end. It went from vibration during braking at highway speed on the way down, to vibrating non-stop on the way back. I’ve already fixed numerous engine issues - low oil pressure, f**ked injectors, incorrect coils and plugs, electric water pump. Still to do is a suspension and brake overhaul, rear subframe replacement and likely more ageing engine electrical components. But I must say, I love it. After so long with the Skyline, I really didn’t know cars could be so comfortable.    
    • Thanks. I adjusted my soft cut to 7600rpm and if I see I'm still making power there, I'll consider readjusting to possibly 7800rpm while on the dyno. 
    • Yeah not sure. I sourced another relay no problem, its definitely a relay according to Nissan parts, they used those specific relays on a bunch if cars around that time, but my two options are, find a behind dash wiring loom which is proving difficult, or get the current loom fixed up by the shop when they put my rebuilt engine back in, they are confident in their auto electrical abilities. Thing is my current loom has anti-theft stuff and GPS immobilisers wired into it so easiest option may be to just fix the current one to save ripping apart the immobiliser. 
    • Took it apart to get to the bearing found out i was wrong the bearing was pressed on to the diff side and the part i removed only had the bearing side, checked the bearing all looked fine took the shaft end to a shop and they recon it was movement from back and forth that made the marks and not rumbling about, so i just changed the seal and put it all back again.
×
×
  • Create New...