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We normally give out a 1KG spring in the actuator. which set around 9psi. We also have a 1.2KG spring which sets it around 13psi. The bracket is $10 additional. It mounts to the side of comp housing.

This is the 2nd half of the winton footage. I actually spoted my old sil180 project on the tracks. Its also a ATR28G4 Powered CA. made 317rwkws.

Hi, Is there where the new oil line screws into? It's the only threaded place i can see, but the threads are different.

post-66529-1255721184_thumb.jpg

that is where you screw it in but thats the wrong end of the oil line that end that you have goes into the engine block and the other end goes into your turbo with the supplied banjo bolt

It is very important that you must use the hollow screw supplied. Not your stock oil feeding screw. Also do not use silicon glue on the buttom of the drain flange.

Yes, the glue normally gets crushed into the drain pipe and blocks it up.

Also I like to update that Powered Up options for, 2IU, OP6 and .63 ATR43 turbine housings is now available. It can increase about 15~20KWs in between 4000~6000RPM but will lose about 20% in response pre-4000RPM.

This option cost $150 Additional on top of the $800 plus GST. and comes with a 14psi Actuator.

Trent said he spent 4 hours on my car and can't fix. I'm Very disappointed with the out come. I'm going to put it back to stock get rid of it and get another R33 or R34 that works better.

Turbo seems to be holding boost fine, There're no signs of dropping off like the stock housings did, and its pretty responsive on the road.

But here's a copy of the boost curve:

post-27032-1256766034_thumb.jpg

With the Powered up option basically what we do is taking about 12 degrees off the turbine wheel, So it can flow more but you lose some response Pre-4000 RPM. I'm working on custom shaft at moment which is made to balance out the lag and top better.

your car get sorted on Friday?

Nah unfortunatley not, and to make it hard the car has had a knock from day one which means (A) i dont want to put it on the dyno and (b) its had previous electrical issues. If i had known all this before it was booked in for a "tune" i probably would not have touched it at all and sent it elsewhere. Sometimes i need to draw the line. I wont charge for anytime i spent on it.

Edited by URAS

Trent has been very helpful. I have nothing against them.

I was disappointed as I didn't get result I was expecting from the actual car instead found all those problems. Turbo spooled nice, early and held boost fine which is a good thing.

Any way, I'm in a process of buying a 96 Spec II R33 as my next ginny cop (why's word pi g kept turning into cop?). going to check it inside out before purchase. For me buying a cheap, aged, crappy looking car and believed the the little pricks its going to perform is just very wrong.

Trent has been very helpful. I have nothing against them.

I was disappointed as I didn't get result I was expecting from the actual car instead found all those problems. Turbo spooled nice, early and held boost fine which is a good thing.

Any way, I'm in a process of buying a 96 Spec II R33 as my next ginny cop (why's word pi g kept turning into cop?). going to check it inside out before purchase. For me buying a cheap, aged, crappy looking car and believed the the little pricks its going to perform is just very wrong.

its guinea p1g anyways :)

Edited by Cerbera

First of all Big Thanks to Nick at Phase Auto in Campbellfield for trouble shooting and tuning. After the few dyno runs he spotted the electrical fault, and issue was fixed. Dyno results below are based on BP 98 Fuel.

This would be the first set of data for the ATR43 G3 .63 Internally gated. Today's result was abit average, taken consideration my engine compression is below 122psi. People with better engines should be able to make another 10~15KWs.

The turbo is pretty responsive, it was set to 19psi and it dropped to 17psi after 6000RPM. I'm going to do another run with .82 rear housing and compare results before cropping turbine wheel.

First set is Dr.drift remap with stock injectors and stock turbo back in May 09

Which made 205rwkws on 13psi of boost and stock ECU running 13psi of boost. The Stock turbo had half of turbine wheel missing when I purchased this car.

drdriftstockturbo.jpg

This is the ATR43G3 .63 14psi actuator. It run 19psi and set off at 17psi after 6000RPM.

atr43272rwkw.jpg

Compare data with Dr.drift's remap and factory map with stock turbo.:

atr43272rwkwcompare.JPG

nice results there.

I have an r34 gtt and have been watching this thread closely.

im wanting to hit about 260-270rwkws through the auto.

car is a daily so cant afford to have the turbo off and send it to you etc if i can avoid it.

would using one of your .63 housings in affect be the same as using my op6 rear housing turbo?

are the quality/results the same? (Boost response/stable boost issues/flow/total power etc)

do you need me to send you compressor side also? or do you machine this yourself? (could probably pick up a cheap r33 shagged turbo to rebuild with your .63 housing?)

Whats the best option here? what are the costs?

was going to PM but thought the answers might be useful to others also

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