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i'm guessing tin can or pipe the size of the intake pipe (to the turbo) with an air hose fitting and a bottle of soapy water (old school bicycle inner tube leak style) and go over all the joints

Have to ask Trent, he did some process to tune it. Dont know much more about it.

I just know the car feels a lot laggier and less power. Dont even really need a dyno but the dyno backs it up how it feels.

we were comparing different cars so the folder thats opened last will be shown.

Ahh k..yeah it was unlikely it would cause a 20kw difference anyway, just found it odd..

Could it be your WG isnt closing properly??

Stao, just a quick one I think would be valuable to your thread;

Are you able to back cut exhaust wheels?

I want to do this to make 2835 from 3071 or 3240 from 3540, thanks.

Stao, just a quick one I think would be valuable to your thread;

Are you able to back cut exhaust wheels?

I want to do this to make 2835 from 3071 or 3240 from 3540, thanks.

To trim or back cut wheels. yes we can do that. you need to give me the specs thou. or a set of 2835 housings.

i'm guessing tin can or pipe the size of the intake pipe (to the turbo) with an air hose fitting and a bottle of soapy water (old school bicycle inner tube leak style) and go over all the joints

Yup exactly, I bought some pvc caps from bunnings and use a silicone joiner and clamp to block off both the intake and the throttlebody. Then put an air hose fitting into the intake cap and insert air pressure. Any leaks I have had on previous cars have been quite loud and very easy to locate.

Just need to find my damn pump!

Interesting plot of the same turbo on Tao's car (yellow and green) and my car (red):

This is with the car running as it was previously making 279rwkw. Both yellow and red are running just off the actuator (no boost controller) but on Tao's car he is able to hold the boost flatter and get more boost up top.

post-29432-1288229088_thumb.jpg

Did you reinstall the bov afterwards? I cant see how a bov restrictor plate could reduce power? Affect driveability sure.

No i threw that plate in the bin it had cost me alot of money trying to find the problem! well it was messing around with the cars afrs, and at 10% throttle it would open the bov and hiss, could only hear it on the dyno and then the car would dump in petrol making it run really rich. I was there when my tuner did it, i couldnt believe it too but taking it out worked, u could hear the car was running so much better!

Interesting plot of the same turbo on Tao's car (yellow and green) and my car (red):

This is with the car running as it was previously making 279rwkw. Both yellow and red are running just off the actuator (no boost controller) but on Tao's car he is able to hold the boost flatter and get more boost up top.

could it be possibly different parts such as exhaust, dump pipe, cat, air intake, intercooler brand, piping and design? better sealing of cylinders as tao has just rebuilt to stock spec with cp forgies. Maybe try another actuator? maybe a leak in a small pipe such as the ones going to the stock boost controller?

hopefully its just a leak somewhere which is nice an easy to fix :)

Edited by DJSimmo
could it be possibly different parts such as exhaust, dump pipe, cat, air intake, intercooler brand, piping and design? better sealing of cylinders as tao has just rebuilt to stock spec with cp forgies. Maybe try another actuator? maybe a leak in a small pipe such as the ones going to the stock boost controller?

hopefully its just a leak somewhere which is nice an easy to fix :)

Just to clear it up that red plot was when the car was running right. I am happy with my dyno being 5rwkw of so less for most of the curve and a bit less at the top cause the boost isnt holding. When you look at the peak power figure mine is quite a bit behind Tao's but if you look at the curve its only right up top that there is much of a difference.

I just want to get back to the red curve. Yup I am hoping its a leak somewhere too! I am not running any boost controller, not even the standard one. I am using the same actuator as what Tao used in those green and yellow plots. I will look into getting boost to hold flat later on, at the moment I am just focussed on finding this issue.

Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.

post-29432-1288307121_thumb.jpg

post-29432-1288307125_thumb.jpg

post-29432-1288307129_thumb.jpg

Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.

nice... and you didnt need to pull the front bar :P

Don't assume that's the only leak though, still go over everything else to be sure. Otherwise, congrats! Hope it goes better now :P

Once I have replaced that hose and clamps I will retest for leaks until I am happy.

nice... and you didnt need to pull the front bar :P

hahaha yup I was dreading taking off the front bar and driving across melbourne. I get enough cop attention already, without a front bar would be suicide!

Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.

LOL at that leak tester! Good work

Hahaha I know it looks ghetto, but it works really well. Because there is no other noise its really easy to hear the leak.

Exactly, may be a bit ghetto but cheap and gets the job done! Thumbs up :P

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