Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is the DIY guide for people who’s installing a SS-1 with stock comp housing. Its harder to install compare to a High flow or other ATR43 series, but nothing special. It was done at friend's workshop whom is an experienced and licensed mechanic. We started at 9PM and finished at 12.20AM.

This turbo comes with:

1x Braided oil feeding line with 2x fittings, and oil drain adaptor.

You need to get:

4x M18 fat brass washers 2mms thick each.

1x M10 brass Washer 1mm thick

1x M12 brass washer 1mm thick

1x 20mm hard oil resistant hose in 30cms long

1x oil drain adaptor gasket or gasket paper cut in shape

If you are using the SS-1's original comp housing that has 3in inlet and 2 inches out lets you will need to make a hard intake pipe and a 2 to 2.5 inches silicon hose. Please refer to post:

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__5871912

This is what it looks like with factory turbo removed:

lines.JPG

factory oil lines and fittings must be removed:

stockoillineoff.JPG

M12x1.25 Speed flow fitting supplied goes onto the block with the 12mm brass washer, the bracket holding chassis side water line must be released:

oilfittingbracketoff.JPG

Connect the straight hose tail of the braided oil feeding line supplied to the engine block oil fitting.

braidelineon.JPG

Here comes the hard bit: Fitting factory water lines. The trick is to screw in the factory M18x1.5 banjo bolt into the engine side water fitting port of the turbo without securing it on to the exhaust manifold. Fit the turbo onto the manifold studs with the water line attached.

Loosely secure the turbo with about 10mms of play on the manifold.

Connect the chassis side water fitting by forcing the metal line 10mms downwards and 10mms forward toward.

You must get a perpendicular angle for the fittings to go in. This is probably the hardest part. Once the fittings goes in, check to make sure it clears the drain port area, secure the turbo to manifolds studs, and secure water lines. It took 12 mints for my mechanic to secure both lines, uncut footage is at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/atr43/atr43ss/installation/diy/fittingwaterlines.wmv

Once water lines are secured, connect oil feeding line to the turbo (10mm brass washer is required in between the adaptor and turbo).

waterlineson.JPG

This is generic aftermarket drain pipe:

oildrainadaptor.JPG

Fit the hard oil resistant hose on and extremely important make sure it does not bend or kink.

oildrain1.JPG

Or you can modify factory hard drain pipe to suit like what I did:

oildrain2.JPG

Connect dump pipe and install stock heat shield.

heatshield1.JPG

heatsheild2.JPG

Connect all pipings, start the car and check/repair any leak, and job is now complete.

finished.JPG

Driving on 7psi with the new turbo running stock ECU, the car pulls lot hard under throttle (1/4, 1/2 or full). I'm currently waiting for a set of 740cc injectors to come in from US. Will have it tuned shortly.

Where you still looking at fitting the nozzles to the PU hi-flow exhaust housing and re-testing?

cheers

darren

Yes I'm waiting to get my other R33 back on road. Currently doing another engine rebuild due to previous mechanic's fk up. But FNT turbine have worked pretty well. Check previous reply regarding to FNT.

Refer to dynosheet earlier the peak power of 265rwkws at 6500RPM was at 18psi. Assume I can hold 18psi across all rev ranges I should still get around the 265rwkws mark. How ever I won't be able to run 24psi at mid range using this motor so should end up with similar peak power with slight less mid range.

Very helpful ..

Though I have not bought my hybrid off you, I was struggling with mounting the lines myself.

I like the video, especially since I can see that it is a bit of a struggle even for you.

:)

Cheers from UK ...

Very helpful ..

Though I have not bought my hybrid off you, I was struggling with mounting the lines myself.

I like the video, especially since I can see that it is a bit of a struggle even for you.

:)

Cheers from UK ...

I've bought a high flowed turbo off them last year I never run into that much of trouble installing them, mine water fittings were all within 10mms of reach. This ss1 turbo appear to have a very different center core then mine, this video or illustration doesn't seems to apply to their high flows.

Edited by GeorgesR34

Hello ..

I think the high-flowed simply keep the centre housing?

?

I bought my Hybrid here in the UK, and the centre is a Garrett T3

I've bought a high flowed turbo off them last year I never run into that much of trouble installing them, mine water fittings were all within 10mms of reach. This ss1 turbo appear to have a very different center core then mine, this video or illustration doesn't seems to apply to their high flows.

Edited by Torques

Stao uses garret cores from my understanding

We used to. Since every one are looking for a big mark up in boost and power with high flows, Components that are working with limited sized housings will have to stand greater amount heat and pressure.

There are constraints in Garrett parts, I consider they are best working with their own housings.

We are making our own bits and pieces since early 10 that I considered them been more “beefed up”. We've also engineered couple of customized wheels for better flow in restrictive housings. You can see how ours high flows and custom turbos making more and more No.s with better response and driving ability as our development progress.

and yes, we normally generic T3 water cooled bearing housings for high flowing, they are very similar in size and position to stock R33 bearing housings. Lot easier to fit water lines with.

Update 30/06/11:

Finally got my test car's back together assembled, still got a small oil leak from the crank seal which will be changed. Took for a drive it’s going very strong. Currently got a KAI OP6 high flow on it will be getting that tuned for a proper reading once run in is complete.

This is from the member whom bought my SS-2 prototype. It made 240rwkws at 11psi on a low pressure actuator. Pretty good power for the boost? :turned: Car's had some miss firing issues to sort so that’s all it can do with out triggering the issue.

atr43ss10psi240rwkws.jpg

For a bit of fun side of turbo building this is a customized ATR43SS-1 made for an external gate setup with a 4 inches inlet and 2 inches out let.

comp.JPG

It runs 3inche Vband adaptor in the back:

dump2.JPG

with a trumpet outlet:

2.JPG

Happy with our welding work :laugh: ?

welding.JPG

dump.JPG

Stao are you getting that new skyline tuned? I'll be very interested to see results of that from a untouched engine.

Add:

Also are you making any thing in between the SS1 and SS2? any chance of making 270~300rwkws mark with 2530's response?

Edited by kwickr33

Thats my dyno above :) The car was even misfiring at 2500 on only 6psi. We sorted it out by fixing the spark plug gap. Now the fuel pump has failed and was failing during the tune and the car is undriveable :( The tuner was impressed with the power it made on that boost. We initially had a high boost actuator and he was worried about this as it was making full boost, it hit 19psi, by about 3500rpm and said that there is no way he can recommend that all day every day so we opted for the lower actuator with good results. He reckons with a 10 - 12psi actuator he could make 250rwkw on 12psi and about 265 - 270rwkw on 15psi and more on higher boost. Very happy with this turbo. Just pissed off I cant do anything with the car due to the fuel pump. Its leaning out which is obviously a fuel related issue. Hopefully the new fuel pump sorts out this issue.

If the fuel pump fixes my issues, I will post back after we touch up the tune.

Edited by SargeRX8

Sarge, am happy the push to HG has worked out so well for you.

Can you clarify what turbo it was again?

"This is from the member whom bought my SS-2 prototype. It made 240rwkws at 11psi on a low pressure actuator. Pretty good power for the boost? :turned: Car's had some miss firing issues to sort so that's all it can do with out triggering the issue."

In Stao's post mate

Edited by JKR-32

Sarge, am happy the push to HG has worked out so well for you.

Can you clarify what turbo it was again?

The ss2 turbo on page 74. Stao made huge power, 320rwkw with the same turbo but my tuner wasn't comfortable with a standard block taking that much pressure. This is an awesome turbo. Some people like a turbo that just comes on, this turbo is very linear. It literally feels like it is pulling harder and harder to red line. Can't wait to start driving it again.

Thats my dyno above :) The car was even misfiring at 2500 on only 6psi. We sorted it out by fixing the spark plug gap. Now the fuel pump has failed and was failing during the tune and the car is undriveable :( The tuner was impressed with the power it made on that boost. We initially had a high boost actuator and he was worried about this as it was making full boost, it hit 19psi, by about 3500rpm and said that there is no way he can recommend that all day every day so we opted for the lower actuator with good results. He reckons with a 10 - 12psi actuator he could make 250rwkw on 12psi and about 265 - 270rwkw on 15psi and more on higher boost. Very happy with this turbo. Just pissed off I cant do anything with the car due to the fuel pump. Its leaning out which is obviously a fuel related issue. Hopefully the new fuel pump sorts out this issue.

If the fuel pump fixes my issues, I will post back after we touch up the tune.

What's wrong with 19psi at 3.5k?

Peter said he had been working with this motors since they first came out and thinks its really dumb when people put that much boost on the motor considering the compression ratio. He said ok if you are aware its not going to last but I said I need the car to last me a fair while. his suggestion is run about 12 psi low and run 17 to 19 high. He said what is the pint of cruising on the freeway then overtaking someone with such a high amount of boost.. It is logical and with good reason.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...