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Point him towards the diy section on here, then he can learn how to change injectors without taking the plenum off.

Girl like hands a needed my manly hands couldnt get in to take the plugs off

Point him towards the diy section on here, then he can learn how to change injectors without taking the plenum off.

I've seen Trent doing it while ago. Remove the throttle body, which leaves you with a opening to fit your hand and tools. After removing all the brackets holding the fuel rail and plugs you can pull it out with all the injectors. Do the same putting it back. Not an easy task.

Easy job. Just be VERY carefull of the spacers under the rail. Easy to drop and lose

This.

Made my life hell for a few days the first time I did it (stupid enough to do it on the grass).

Girl like hands a needed my manly hands couldnt get in to take the plugs off

From memory all you have to do is push down on the clip part and you will hear a click and the plug will slide off, i think i used the tip of a screwdriver to push down on a couple of them.

Easy job. Just be VERY carefull of the spacers under the rail. Easy to drop and lose

I lost them as well, dont try to make some up with old rubber hose that "seems" hard enough to do the job.

also long pointy nose pliers and patience got the job done.

Hey Stao,

I currently have a gcg high flow making 254kw atw with full boost at 3200rpm. This turbo is great on the street with excellent response, great upgrade however i am in need of more power. The GCG turbo spikes at 18psi then drops down to 16psi and stays there untill 7000rpm.

What hypergear option would you recommend to achieve 280 kw plus, with very similar response to gcg high flow. I would like to run the nissan comp cover and also a rear housing which will bolt up to my current dump pipe. Basically im looking for a direct replacment bolton custom turbo which would make some more power.

Also if i decide to keep my gcg high flow can you supply me with a bolton actuator which can hold between 15 to 20 psi. My current actuator was taken of a rb20 turbo and it holds 10psi when boost controller is turned off. I think i might need a stronger one to maintain strong consistant boost, what do you think?

Also if i decide to keep my gcg high flow can you supply me with a bolton actuator which can hold between 15 to 20 psi. My current actuator was taken of a rb20 turbo and it holds 10psi when boost controller is turned off. I think i might need a stronger one to maintain strong consistant boost, what do you think?

an electronic boost controller should let you hold 20psi+ to redline, this would almost certainly make 260-270kw which is what you are after yes? With small turbos like this they will always spike boost and then bleed down by redline without an electronic controller.

For fast response 280rwkws I would recommend the SS1PU version with a 20psi actuator.

By the way I'm doing some modifications to the SS2, not sure if it will work, but if so, I should get 300rwkws with SS1's response.

For fast response 280rwkws I would recommend the SS1PU version with a 20psi actuator.

By the way I'm doing some modifications to the SS2, not sure if it will work, but if so, I should get 300rwkws with SS1's response.

If this does work, could something like this be integrated into my turbo if and when I send it back for repairs?

Easy job. Just be VERY carefull of the spacers under the rail. Easy to drop and lose

Ah f**k, I found two of these hard spacers in my engine bay. They were sitting in the engine mount area. Could they be from my rail or something? I didn't fit them in, Advan performance did. Maybe they put new ones in, unless what ever they sit between can work without them...

Edited by SargeRX8

Have a feel under where the rail bolts on. Or use a little mirror to see if the black spacer is there.

Wolverine, hahaha, took 3 of us to find that little sucker, that was an injector o ring. I swear it was sucking the blood out of my leg and then just dropped off under the car after we had been searching for a few minutes

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