Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol @ comparing results and claiming better response from FFP but infact it was from the fuel. please dont provide misleading information.

its a known fact that stock plenums have better response however reducing the length of the cooler pipe will help also. best way is to remove the standard crossover pipe and custom make a cooler pipe straight from TB to underneath battery tray like so

IMG_2474.JPG

Oh stao I forgot to ask. That vw high flow. Was that a ko3 or ko3s. The beetle uses the ko3s and is bigger.

Edited by lilcrash

Lol @ comparing results and claiming better response from FFP but infact it was from the fuel. please dont provide misleading information.

its a known fact that stock plenums have better response however reducing the length of the cooler pipe will help also. best way is to remove the standard crossover pipe and custom make a cooler pipe straight from TB to underneath battery tray like so

IMG_2474.JPG

^^^^

Who makes that pipping kit? need one asap.

I'm not too sure what K03 that is, I've been told its from Chinese 1.8L T WV passet I believe. doesn't really matter we can high flow most of turbos.

He's running a Plazaman plenum. In theory shorter cooler piping reduces lag as the length in air travel is shorter, with less volume to fill, same as bigger or smaller coolers. Mine and Abe's car are identical in setup except shorter cooler piping and plenum, E85 should also have some effects as well. I'm also in the process of designing a shorter piping on the plenum side, should make a difference.

E85 makes a massive difference, the shorter runner lengths with a front facing plenum do A LOT more than the shorter distance the air has to travel.

My dump pipe is also close to the air con drain as in it has burnt it. Does this explain why I am getting some water dripping on the feet of the front passenger when the aircon is on?

Mate that is the exact same problem i am having. I can't use my air con without having wet shoes. The longer i have it on, the more water comes out. Eventually, its like a cup of water thrown at my feet its annoying.

Under that rubber pipe is just a white plastic hose that dumps condensation when A/C is on. The water comes in due to the car's acceleration momentum, get a rubber plug in that size then cut the center section out for that plastic hose. That would stop any water drain in to the cabinet.

I got my ATR43G3 fitted yesterday, and the pump pipe now touches the AC hose thing.. ill prob wrap the rubber hose with some heat wrap. Install went o k, but its hardly "bolt on" would have been cheaper to buy a ebay exhaust manifold/custom dump and intake.

But im happy its on and working atleast, getting tuned at MRC today, so we'll see how it goes...

Havent even hit boost in it yet and WOW it sounds awesome, car is twice as loud!

Photos of your engine bay would be great. Please make sure it has at least 3 inches metal intake system (G3 should run 4inches) with a very free flow exhaust before dyno tuning. Also make sure the wastegate actuator is pre-loaded to original spec (3mms) if it has been removed during installation

We charge $300 for installation here that takes 4 hours to do. It would be a good idea to read through the DIY guides before starting the job.

Intake side must be changed regardless and check page 1 for cheap DIY intake setup. I'm ripping out my turbo Tuesday and will take videos of the installation.

Photos of your engine bay would be great. Please make sure it has at least 3 inches metal intake system (G3 should run 4inches) with a very free flow exhaust before dyno tuning. Also make sure the wastegate actuator is pre-loaded to original spec (3mms) if it has been removed during installation

We charge $300 for installation here that takes 4 hours to do. It would be a good idea to read through the DIY guides before starting the job.

Intake side must be changed regardless and check page 1 for cheap DIY intake setup. I'm ripping out my turbo Tuesday and will take videos of the installation.

I will put some pics up, it looks great. I didnt do the install my local performance shop did it, i gave them your step-by-step instructions too..

It has a 4inch intake, and a VERY free flowing exaust (Catless 3inch system, 4inch muffler straight through) and just installed last night a blitz return flow. There is absolutly no restriction in this setup.

They had to modify the actuator as it was even straight, and was rubbing on the side of the shaft as it would come onto boost, that cost me more money, all up was 1200 to install and fabricate intake pipe and weld intercooler pipe longer. I did have lots of studs broken though, that bumped the price up $400.

still no word yet on the tune..

I will put some pics up, it looks great. I didnt do the install my local performance shop did it, i gave them your step-by-step instructions too..

It has a 4inch intake, and a VERY free flowing exaust (Catless 3inch system, 4inch muffler straight through) and just installed last night a blitz return flow. There is absolutly no restriction in this setup.

They had to modify the actuator as it was even straight, and was rubbing on the side of the shaft as it would come onto boost, that cost me more money, all up was 1200 to install and fabricate intake pipe and weld intercooler pipe longer. I did have lots of studs broken though, that bumped the price up $400.

still no word yet on the tune..

Are you using an AFM or do you have a MAP based ecu?? Just interested in how much work is involved moving the AFM to the cooler piping if anyone reading this has done it.

$400 for broken studs? Jeez... It's so easy to get a broken stud out confused.gif

I really don't like workshops play with the fitment of the actuator as is was set like that for a reason, Remove the actuator bracket with the actuator to allow tools go in But don't take the actuator off the bracket as it is setup evenly on a jig to the wastgate nipple loaded and pressure tested. Not only that they would charge you good couple of hours marking around with it hopefully get it back to where it was.

I hope they lined it up with the wasetgate nipple and loaded it correctly or its going to be super laggy and unable to hold boost. It would be good if your tuner becomes aware of that before tuning.

Are you using an AFM or do you have a MAP based ecu?? Just interested in how much work is involved moving the AFM to the cooler piping if anyone reading this has done it.

$400 for broken studs? Jeez... It's so easy to get a broken stud out confused.gif

Yeah AFM is infront of the 4inch intake, so it does reduce down to 3inch for the afm and pod. Didnt want to relocate the afm as it doesnt look stock and they blow apart at high boost levels in the cooler piping (from what i remember reading on here)

Yeah 2 in the block and that was making the manifold leak, and all of the studs onto the turbo. They nearly melted the manifold getting them out, had to get a pro in to do it, think he drill them out.

Well ill find out this arvo how the cars running, but it didnt seem that laggy with no tune, i didnt boost it though, but was like stock turbo just driving "normally" the actuator just didnt look straight, its now straight so who knows. They are a very well known Performance and tuning shop who have turbo 6/8's everything there i trust they knew what they were doing.

I am taking to a different tuner than who installed the turbo, but i did let him know about the actuator.

Update:

Got a faulty AFM, so only 2 power runs done one to 6k rpm and another to 5k rpm.

Full boost with no tuning is 18psi at 4200rpm power was something like 240rwkw.. getting a new afm tomorrow and final tune will be done then. AFR's were in the 10s.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...