Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that r33 turbo looks crazy, what size is the inlet on it now?

What are you aiming for rwkw wise with this version of hi flow?

Edited by Mitcho_7

I'm aiming to crack 300rwkws with a stock 21U R33 housings on pump 98. It felt abit too responsive as some thing maxing 300rwkws, can't wait to see how it goes once tuned.

Its a brae manifold. a duplication of my ebay SS manifold that cracked using steel pipe. its apparantly an expansive one time job that I haven't fully evaluate it yet.

I've also got an HKS low mount cast manifold fully surfaced with T3x bolt pattern. comes with HKS 38mm gate for $1200. PM if interested

I'm aiming to crack 300rwkws with a stock 21U R33 housings on pump 98. It felt abit too responsive as some thing maxing 300rwkws, can't wait to see how it goes once tuned.

Its a brae manifold. a duplication of my ebay SS manifold that cracked using steel pipe. its apparantly an expansive one time job that I haven't fully evaluate it yet.

I've also got an HKS low mount cast manifold fully surfaced with T3x bolt pattern. comes with HKS 38mm gate for $1200. PM if interested

Isnt 300rwkw on stock R33 housing going to cause the turbo to be running extra hot most of the time due to its tiny size and max flow squeezed out of it??

That can be compensated by machining out the internals of the factory turbine housing making a larger blow tunnel while using an extra large turbine wheel to compensate. Not sure to what extend thou.

Ive been away since the start of this year so did not have time to troubleshoot my lack of power and finish the tune with my SS1PU. Finally back home and having the car sorted out tomorrow. With some luck I hope it wont be too hard to work out the power loss issue before completing the tune.

Has anyone finished their SS1PU tunes and got final results in the last two months? Flicked through the thread but didnt see any.

Edit : Found one in the dyno results thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__6189807

Any more? ;)

Another update with the G3's rear housing. This re-makes OEM dump flange from the G3. enables better turbine flow, and increase the boost to power ratio.

adaptor.jpg

This flange can be removed without removing the turbo. I'm happy to have above mod update all current G3 and G4 .84 units free of charge regardless how old it is, and good time to do the fnt mod for 2010 and earlier units. PM for details.

Its got larger opening area then the older model, how ever that would be the absolute of what can be fitted based on stock oem dump pattern. I've managed to get couple made last weekend, I can do it on exchange bases, as you can have the old one send back after the newer one is received. Its just 5bolt on the rear housing. pretty easy to de-tach. best to have it installed if the turbo is not yet fitted.

Edit: sorry I must need the original adaptor to work with as the wastegate wholes are individually drilled to suit the disc. will take 1 working day to have it complete.

Ive been away since the start of this year so did not have time to troubleshoot my lack of power and finish the tune with my SS1PU. Finally back home and having the car sorted out tomorrow. With some luck I hope it wont be too hard to work out the power loss issue before completing the tune.

Has anyone finished their SS1PU tunes and got final results in the last two months? Flicked through the thread but didnt see any.

Edit : Found one in the dyno results thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__6189807

Any more? ;)

Won't be much help to you at the moment, but I'm getting mine installed next Wednesday and assuming that all goes to plan, tuning as soon as I can book it in. Will definintely post results in here.

My SS1PU should be here by Friday!

My Nistune chip installed by next week

My Injectors early next week

Things are finally coming together and then I will post results.

Wouldnt mind seeing some good results

Ive been away since the start of this year so did not have time to troubleshoot my lack of power and finish the tune with my SS1PU. Finally back home and having the car sorted out tomorrow. With some luck I hope it wont be too hard to work out the power loss issue before completing the tune.

Has anyone finished their SS1PU tunes and got final results in the last two months? Flicked through the thread but didnt see any.

Edit : Found one in the dyno results thread:

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6189807

Any more? ;)

Here you go.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/390356-for-sale-r33-gts25t-series-2/page__p__6227458#entry6227458

My SS1PU should be here by Friday!

My Nistune chip installed by next week

My Injectors early next week

Things are finally coming together and then I will post results.

Wouldnt mind seeing some good results

What power are you hoping to get?

Why is the new G3 more popular with u guys than the SS2, the SS2 has slightly more area under the curve (response) for a similar peak power output of approx 300-320rwkws.

I understand the G3 might have a tad more power/ flow potential being bigger? And of course its cheaper. Is that the reason? I seriously see the SS2 as a better turbo with the same power goal. Would compare it with a GT3076 /0.82

I went with the G3 because it makes more torque at each rpm increment than the SS2, and it makes more power under the curve (don't just look at boost or response here, the G3 is making more power everywhere than the SS2). The SS2 only catches up in the higher rpm to make the same power, the G3 beats it everywhere else, even if it's only just.

On Stao's results anyway, I haven't got those results yet.

Edited by Hanaldo

SS2 has better drivability and response. How ever working in restrictive factory setup larger housings definitely helps getting the power goal lot easier with better consistency.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...