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Lol very true, between boost bleeding off, square wheels and my brake pedal causing earthquakes in my car. I'm having lots of fun chasing problems.

Dont worry mate, my car is a nightmare too. Even Jez has nightmares about my car :thumbsup:

I just dont talk about it too much

Yeh but I'm already onto that and it hasn't costed me any money yet, that's no fun! :P

By the way, hoping to have results for my latest setup around the middle to end of this month. Just need to get my throttle cable issue sorted and then I'll book it in for a tune. VCT should now be working, so fingers crossed I've got it all right this time haha.

what did u do/change to get VCT working?

what did u do/change to get VCT working?

I'm not 100% sure that it is working yet, won't know until it is back on the dyno. I know the solenoid works as I switched it on with an active test using NIStune. So that's all good. I'm fairly sure that my tuner simply disabled the VCT because of the issues my ECU was having with not getting a TCS signal. That has since been taken care of by reprogramming my ECU with a Stagea image and there are no DTC's popping up anymore. So when it goes back on the dyno I will ask him to check that the VCT is setup properly.

The only other thing I can think of is that my timing is out. Whether someone has messed with the cam gear or I have an issue like Luke had where the harmonic balancer was retarding the timing I don't know, that will be the next thing to check if VCT isn't the problem.

Thought I'd post up an annotated version of my dyno sheet to demonstrate how early the SS1PU hybrid actually gets on boost (I think someone asked me?). Maybe I should just ask RP if they can give me an RPM overlay lol.

I used an online speed/RPM calculator and tried my best to get the variables right, so don't quote me on the RPM estimates, but they shouldn't be far off the real figures. I conservatively estimated them in favour of less performance, so they are if anything going to be slightly higher than the real numbers.

209rsc7.jpg

The RPM estimates inside the chart refer to specific points of interest:

3085RPM - Making the full standard boost of 7psi. Does anyone know when the standard turbo makes this? I don't think it's far off the mark. From here boost ramps up very quickly.

3750RPM - Fun times begin here, it's not max boost but it's 95% of it...

4035RPM - Boost finally smooths out to 16psi...I'm guessing it would produce the 20psi somewhere around this point if we were running that in the midrange.

5745RPM - Maximum power made long before redline. This makes it very safe and very streetable.

It's a shame the graph only starts plotting after 2510RPM because, as you can see, it is making a little less than 5psi long before that. I know ramp rates will be different depending on the gear you're in, but as I described previously (and Kasko supported), this turbo is unusual. It feels like it is ALWAYS making some sort of boost, no matter where you are in the rev range. The car just pulls along comfortably where off boost / turbo lag should be, very close to a naturally aspirated vehicle and better than the standard turbo setup. Stao should be paying me for this lol, but it is truly the most streetable turbo upgrade in my opinion, even if you're not chasing all the extra power. Considering how stock my engine bay looks and what this turbo does with those restrictions in mind, anyone concerned about defects should definitely be looking at one!

I think your rpm scale is probably about 200rpm short of where it should be 116km/hr should be about 4140rpm.

Also in regards to the start of the graph being at 5psi that is because the car has been loaded up against the dyno before the run has started.

Still not a bad little turbo for the price, there is a lot better out there but it will cost you a pretty penny premium.

Its been a while seeing the Greedy copies around with few good working examples. So we've imported few. The first one I'm interested to try is the TD06SL2 in 10cm with T3 flange turbine housing running 20G Billet compressor wheel.

It has been pulled apart and rebalanced (tolerance is about twice higher then where I normally set them to, its now corrected). to make sure every thing can work accordingly.

Those turbos are externally gated only and available to every one for $850 including GST and 12 month local warranty. I will refer to it as the EXGBTD06SL2

turbo.jpg

turbine.jpg

Looking through the turbine design, it appears been able to make plenty of torque, but I'm not too sure about response. There is also room in FNT turbine upgrade. I might be able to adapt internal gate onto it with the Nissan 6 bolt flange.

Stao I need to send my turbo back at some stage to get the external wastegate housing made but was thinking do you need one of these turbo's tested?

I'm willing to give it ago for you.

I think your rpm scale is probably about 200rpm short of where it should be 116km/hr should be about 4140rpm.

Based on what?

Also curious on what your variables behind "better" are...are you talking response or power or looking stock or efficiency or cost or ease of installation or...?

Based on what?

Also curious on what your variables behind "better" are...are you talking response or power or looking stock or efficiency or cost or ease of installation or...?

I contest both points also.

1. He could be running a different size tyre which could easily make for a 200rpm variance. If the man knows his car best then the man knows his car best. I wouldnt want to tell a full time owner of a vehicle what speed/gear/rpm should be, hes the one who should know best.

2. Im sure if there was a better 250kw turbo out there we would all be salavating for it and talking about it non stop, instead of pursuing the HG thread daily and pouring hopes and dreams into Kando combinations. I still believe the GTRS is a special item, but short of paying through the nose or picking one of the other 2 mentioned items I dont know what else there is to mention? We havent really seen much else yet.

Im sure once BW EFR's become readily available and we strap a T3 item to an RB the game MIGHT change. Until then, viva la HG/Kando and their recent unholy alliance.

Anyway, haters gonna hate :ph34r:

I'm not saying I can't be wrong or anything, I'd just like to know what he's basing his estimation of 200rpm variance on. I can go and measure it more accurately with the PFC controller to confirm how far out I am (it's speedo reading was very close to mine). I used 265/35/R18 tyres in the calculation plus the standard 4.11 diff ratio and then rounded up the figures, so they should be within ~10rpm unless I got my arithmetic and mm/inch conversions wrong.

I agree Scott, at this power output and maintaining this response, as far as I'm concered the HKS range is the only other contender if you're happy to pay for it. Even then it's not going to look anywhere near as stock, which is what someone like me is concerned with. HGs aren't for everyone, but I don't know what you can successfully challenge the SS1PU on if someone says it's the perfect turbo for their specific application.

Based on what?

Also curious on what your variables behind "better" are...are you talking response or power or looking stock or efficiency or cost or ease of installation or...?

I may be a little out, but if you run a GPS speedo and digital tacho you will have the most accurate way to find out :) Saying that I usually calculate on slightly different diameter tyres and they do change things a little!

"Better" would be better bottom end with similar mid range and top end (and hold power longer). I'm sorry but if you think that your result can go 10 rounds with a GT-RS or AX53B70 I think you are a little misguided.

I concede the GT-RS is probably the power-response king; Scott and I both agree with this. But as I said before, power and response weren't the only demands of the application. When you account for constraints like my standard compressor housing, a catalytic converter, return flow FMIC, boost maxed at 15psi in the top end etc., my SS1PU is running nowhere near it's full potential IMO. And I'm not so sure, given the same constraints, that the GT-RS would be all that far in front, if anything. Which would you rather have sitting under the bonnet when the plod knock on your window?

It's a shame actually, because I've made a little more power than most do using this turbo, I think in part to a very healthy engine and some good tuning, yet I also have one of the most restrictive setups holding back the potential. Stao on the other hand has done everything he can to max the power on one, and when you compare his results to the GT-RS it's six to one and half a dozen to the other.

I'm sorry but if you think that your result can go 10 rounds with a GT-RS or AX53B70 I think you are a little misguided.

I think I would have no issues doing above, infact I know the SS1PU is slightly larger then the GT-RS all around and was pretty consistent when on the dyno. I'll be back with few more wastegate side updates and can do some comparisons with what Trent's got in his PC.

Also found most tuners would retard timing as "insurance" for stock motor when it do hit 20psi. That explains the missing mid range, an update to the wastegate assembly is made, so all new units would have no issues holding boost using EBC with a 14psi actuator. Also the updated module is available for all ATR43 series at a cheap cost.

For that Billet TD06 there is no way it can be modified into a stockie bolton the possition of the turbine outlet is way off to stock 6 bolt nissan pattern. So it will have to be the way it is. I'm planing to let trent do some tests on his New Ceffero.

I might hit you up for a billet once my clutch and tuning is done..

you could sell me just a core or would it be cheaper to put a billet wheel on my turbo?

Let me know when you clutch is sorten. I think I will add the FNT turbine into it as well and make it a more unique TD06 to the generic version.

Could you explain the science behind the FNT or even a diagram showing what it is and how it helps?

Google didn't help me much.

fnt is staos own recipe, google will, not tell you the mans ideas

a typical turbine housing has a single nozzle where the gas ends its path and meets the wheel, stao machines the housing to have 3 nozzles so that the turbine gets 3 channels of precise gas flow and helps it pickup speed faster

seems excessive though to spend $1200-2000 on a clutch for the sort of power were talking about here...

any suggestions for better clutches then that dont go over $1K

Try an "F1 racing" clutch, which also goes by the name "gripforce". I have one in my car and i know of several in cars pushing 300+rwkw and going for 2 years+. Not bad for a $250 clutch :thumbsup:

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