Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How does the wastegate open in that housing, is there enough clearance?

Its got 42mm of clearance inside the casing. thats far more then what the actuator can travel, won't case any issues.

gate.JPG

Bolted up my SS2 today. Didn't need to bend water lines. Nothing fouled. Oil drain fitted. Not sure if it was made to fit perfect or because it had a highflow previously it had already been modified.

Can't wait to kick it in the guts:)

Bolted up my SS2 today. Didn't need to bend water lines. Nothing fouled. Oil drain fitted. Not sure if it was made to fit perfect or because it had a highflow previously it had already been modified.

Can't wait to kick it in the guts:)

You lucky son of a....

I am so jealous of your simple install haha

Can't wait to see the power

The 350rwkws was made by a G2.5 in a type B rear housing on E85 internally gated. The G3 on type A internally gated housing made 358rwkws with 7 degrees regarded timing in fear of bending con-roads. It should be sitting around the 390rwkws mark with time added.

Now it is:

flangeold.jpg

With all broken studs removed of course.

2ndly before installation I found the actuator had been short lengthen to lower boost. Doing so leaves the wastegate unsealed causing massive amount of lag. And that is a lag caused by negligence. It must be held shut and loaded as photo shown on the right, do contact me for a lower psi actuator if lower boost is preferred for what ever reason, but don't unload the supplied actuator, it does not mean the same thing.

actuator.JPG

I will ask the customer tonight if he unwound the preload when he fitted it years ago.

So did u replace the entire rear housing? It looks like a different wastegate setup or is the picture mirrored

Hey Stao, what size banjo bolts do you use on your cores? I've just been looking through the HKS manual for my turbo and looks like mine are all M14 banjo bolts, hoping when I buy a turbo off you after my holidays I can simply unbolt mine and bolt yours on and just screw everything in

Will this be possible or will I just need to get an oil/water line kit off you?

that was the old housing been sand blasted, cleaned and reworked to Type B rear.

The picture must be mirrored then because the flapper arm is from a different angle and so is the t3 flange.

I asked him and he said he unloaded it as he asked for the 14psi actuator but got the 20. This car wasnt laggy for the setup he had.

The picture must be mirrored then because the flapper arm is from a different angle and so is the t3 flange.

I didnt notice that before, but yeh when you look at it everything is opposite haha

he asked for the 14psi actuator but got the 20.

This seems to happen to everyone...

Edited by Mitcho_7

Picked up my ATR43SS2 with .82 type B rear housing up off stao on monday XP Cant wait 2 get it installed on my 33 nd see how much power it makes..

I've fixed the photos. appears on the same way now. With the gate loaded and shut it should've pickedup another 200RPMs of response. Its been loaded now and hopefully there are some good tuners in NT.

Picked up my ATR43SS2 with .82 type B rear housing up off stao on monday XP Cant wait 2 get it installed on my 33 nd see how much power it makes..

Be good to see another result :) I'm hoping to lift my engine in mid next week. What actuator did you get?

There is a newer type of comp wheel been developed for the SS2 that weights about 25% less then the current SS2 billet wheel. (its virtually feels nothing on hand, less weight then the Plastic OEM comp wheel). I think Trent's is getting his dyno together next week and I'm testing that very soon. So I suggest to hold on to your SS2 units to have that comp wheel updated free of charge.

There is a newer type of comp wheel been developed for the SS2 that weights about 25% less then the current SS2 billet wheel. (its virtually feels nothing on hand, less weight then the Plastic OEM comp wheel). I think Trent's is getting his dyno together next week and I'm testing that very soon. So I suggest to hold on to your SS2 units to have that comp wheel updated free of charge.

You have my attention. Looking forward to checking it out. Which housing result will you be comparing it against?

you also have my attention, will you be testing it with a 0.63 rear housing or 0.82 housing? Im yet to put my SS2 in the car yet so i will wait to see if the gains are significant. But keen to get a Lighter comp wheel

This is a high flow that I've done for a set of Toyota supra with the SS1.5 CHRA. Come out pretty good. photos:

comp1.jpg

comp2.JPG

rear2.jpg

By specifications those two should be enough to flow 500rwkw+. Will post results once the customer get his car tuned.

Also this are stainless steel 3inch metal induction pipe made by Abe for R32/R33/R34 high flowed turbochargers. RRP is $200, or $150 with any turbocharger services purchased. PM if any one's interested.

intakepipe.jpg

Also this are stainless steel 3inch metal induction pipe made by Abe for R32/R33/R34 high flowed turbochargers. RRP is $200, or $150 with any turbocharger services purchased. PM if any one's interested.

intakepipe.jpg

These intakes can come with both recirc ports?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...