Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah as above, it depends on the cams. For all intents and purposes, as far as you're concerned you won't lose VCT. I don't think there's any point whatsoever putting any cams in the RB25 for testing purposes that don't retain VCT. 256deg Tomei poncams seem to be the best and most common cam upgrade for mild/street RB25s, and I believe they retain VCT. Not NEEDED, but they fatten up the midrange.

Got the Fnt turbine ended T67 dummy fitted today, and went for a little test cruise with my current SS2 tune.

oncar.jpg

I personally recon its pretty laggy for every day road use. It does have very decent top end, but its down in power and torque mid range. on 22psi In 3rd foot to floor its starts to pull really hard from 4500RPMs all the way to 7200 limiter. With limiter at 8500RPMs on tracks its probably alright, I think I will be seeing close to 400rwkws on my next tune. Since the the FNT housing is in .82, the smaller 10cm turbine might produce better response.

I got a overlay print on my final SS2 run, This graph explains about the missing mid range very well.

Blue is my last .70 SS2 bush bearing high mount Ex Gate

Red is .60 SS2 Ceramic roller bearing ported stock manifold internally gated

Pink and orange is 10CM T67 on high mount Ex Gated

All running E85

t67vs.jpg

t67vsboost.jpg

Seems to be what most people are getting out of E85 from the dynosheet section, even Simon's T67's not showing true potential till 7000RPMs+, there is no match in mid range power and torque to SS2.

Seems to be what most people are getting out of E85 from the dynosheet section, even Simon's T67's not showing true potential till 7000RPMs+, there is no match in mid range power and torque to SS1PU.

fypbrah

Tao, u change turbo's every week :)

Yes, and high mount made it easier, all back to the SS2 now :P. I should be hitting up strips more often.

Most of customers are using it for road, I would prefer turbos with very good power and torque within usable rev range on stock cams and cam gears.

Making the external gate billet SS1 and SS1.5 at moment. They should be super duper responsive on road.

2ndly do you guys get up really early or never to go bed at all?

That is my T67 result, and yes it is on E85.

I am running a Greddy style plenum which on all accounts results in a loss of torque.

But that SS2 really does look amazing. 600Nm from an RB25 is insane.

Hey stao, just out of interest; how much would it cost to convert my ATR43G3 nissan 6 bolt internal gater to this current SS2 nissan 6 bolt internal gater?

Haha, about time :)

Hey stao, just out of interest; how much would it cost to convert my ATR43G3 nissan 6 bolt internal gater to this current SS2 nissan 6 bolt internal gater?

New comp wheel and comp cover only ;) the rest of it is reused.

Shouldnt cost much but should be epic as all fek.

Wasteland does not sleep.

But then again do you ever sleep & when you do are your dreams about turbos?

No I dream about hot chicks licking my turbos :P

Hey stao, just out of interest; how much would it cost to convert my ATR43G3 nissan 6 bolt internal gater to this current SS2 nissan 6 bolt internal gater?

To do that we need to:

Sleeve and re-profile the comp housing and back plate: $150

Compressor wheel: $200

Balance & Assembly the CHRA assembly then the turbo assembly.: $70

Total: $420

It will becomes a SS2 in .70 comp housing used on the test car with Nissan IW assembly. It won't be able to unleash its full potential till fitted with a proper exhaust manifold and externally gated plus a good tuner of course.

Some updates on the new billet SS1 and SS1.5:

I've had both housings machined to suit the core.

IMGP8732.JPG

They will be using a SS1PU's externally gated turbine with 3inch outlet. This housing was customized to suit my current front pipe that was made for the SS2, so looks bad after been chopped and welded it few times but I got it fit on the end.

IMGP8733.JPG

IMGP8737.JPG

All fitted up and ready to go. will do some road tests tomorrow.

IMGP8748.JPG

Some updates on the new billet SS1 and SS1.5:

I've had both housings machined to suit the core.

IMGP8732.JPG

How did the new born perform? better then my SS1PU?

Edited by petero'nell

Well I can't really do much till its tuned. This turbo has a totally different rear wheel and housing compare to the SS2 so I'm not very confident flooring it at this point. How ever I did let it on 12psi external gate pressure and its very responsive and probably due to the effect of the external gate and manifold the torque was incredible.

Driving wise it feels like having a R34 turbo on a R33, turbo comes a live with just a little bit of throttle, ie tap 20% throttle and the turbo whistles to boost, floor it = a very big pull.

There are generally two kinds of feed backs, its either this car's got some serious power or this car is very fast. I think All SS1xx series belongs to the 2nd category. I've swapped the SS2 back on so I can drive the car, will post results for all turbos once Trent gets back from overseas. at moment I'm modifying the 10cm turbine housing to suit my front pipe, be interested to find out the on road behavior of my billet SL2 20G and 25G on Rb25det.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
×
×
  • Create New...