Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WIP:

Ceramic roller bearing SS-4 Turbocharger prototype 1. I've made two types of comp wheels and 3 types of turbine wheels to trail and the profile with the best result will be released. It will be running a .82 Alpha turbine housing.

I'm targeting about 480rwkws mark with the new cams and E85 with 20psi around 4500RPMs. Assume my 850cc injectors don't run out and nothing breaks.

IMGP9023.JPG

This particular one will cost $2500 to build. how ever I will have it configurated to be the most responsive turbocharger in its HP range.

  • Like 1

He did say that's assuming he doesn't run out of injectors, so it's likely he knows he probably will and is going to see where the but stops before he outlays on new ones.

Stao just so you know I am doing great with my Five-o injectors, a set will run you under $600 for the RB25 and come in sizes up to 1200 for factory fit.

BTW I will probably be adding an external gate to my combo so will have some room to add a VNT housing if you would like me to trial. Drop me a PM.

The current injectors started to run lean on 431rwkw, probably be out towards 450rwkws or might not get there. Will shop for larger injectors.

I will also be targeting response just like other Alpha series turbochargers. Its cool if I ended up with the most responsive 430rwkws.

Result of our recent high flowed R34 OP6 turbocharger. This turbocharger is using our upgraded high flow profile.

Tuned by Toshi on a Mainline roller dyno, made 270rwkws on 18psi of boost with factory actuator pump 98 fuel. By judging the shape of both boost and power curves this turbocharger is capable of running higher boost then what it has been set to. at 22psi is should be getting very close to 300rwkws mark.

270rwkws.jpg

Further updates. Just completed the SS3 Alpha prototype-1. There is a dealt about compressor surging using a wheel in this size with fall over blade design, specially working with VNT turbine. So I've made two set of sleeves that goes into the current compressor housing. One is anti surge while the other one is normal. If Trent has time we will be trailing the affect of having an anti surge compressor housing.

comp3.JPG

comp2.JPG

That's an interesting way to get the ported shroud in a normally plain housing . I's something that I'd like to see with T04E housings as well because it seems like HKS and Garrett are the only ones with port shrouded E housings to suit Garrett wheels .

A .

Love the bullet nut and overall look of the turbo. Starting to put out some awesome looking turbos

I'm interested in the effects of the anti surge. Its probably at least semi useful on that turbo but I'm not sure why HKS decided my little turbo needed it.

Turbo is installed and I've taken it for a quick test drive, untuned. Well its not responsive as the other alpha series turbochargers, How ever is very responsive for its size. Even it is bigger, but much more driveable compare to the ATR45. I've taken a small footage of the turbocharger on idle then shutting down. While the ATR45 didn't spin much on idle.

Hi Stao,

Just a question about your brae manifold, was your made special in terms of the wastegate position or did you just use the normal one that they make? Also how much for one of your 50mm gates?

Hi Stao,

Just a question about your brae manifold, was your made special in terms of the wastegate position or did you just use the normal one that they make? Also how much for one of your 50mm gates?

If you are getting him to make you one you should be able to have it where you like :)

Stao,

You should get a stencil made up and spray on your name "HYPERGEAR" on the compressor cover. Or some other way. Very interested to see the effect of anti-surge.

Josh.

If you are getting him to make you one you should be able to have it where you like :)

Yeah I know but I just wanted to get it same as Staos run since hes tested it and shown it works well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...