Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah hopefully does it easy

Actually while I'm on the phone for work, on here and playing with the gate

Whats the best way to plumb it up?

It also looks adjustable, yes or no? Would be handy if I could set the boost via the gate instead of either trying to find my Greddy E-01 or buying a new one.

Nice result Jared, Are you sticking with 98?

Will prob stick with 85.

Get a better fuel pump. Jump to ~18-20 psi and see what happens.

I may need to lose the nistune, tuner is saying it a tad hard to work with at this power

Hah, i kinda launched it as that run i was waiting for so long because a Camaro broke down and they lost power to timing lights.
So i just gunned it.

Heres me beating a 585 hp f6 (

I think he backed off, as the next time i went up against him he beat me by half a car length.

Any dyno reading from that tune? The SS2 on Jared's car is the Black edition, with the latest compressor and larger turbine. It should be making power easier then the previous version.

A result sent in from an SS1PU customer. This is the latest version also that has a different compressor that is engineered to hold boost better and more top end.

It is running on E85 maxing out fuel pump. Peek of 301rwkws @ 17psi. With plenty of mid range.

From customer's feed back letter:

R34 GTT (Stock Motor)

Supporting Mods
Blitz FMIC Return Flow
1000cc Injectors
Standard Airbox (Panel Filter)
3inch Bellmouth Full Exhaust
Z32 AFM
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
SS1PU (latest model)
Scotty's Alloy Intake
CALTEX E-Flex
301.8 Rwkw (18psi peak, drops off to 17psi holds well)

atr43ss1pu.jpg

Any dyno reading from that tune? The SS2 on Jared's car is the Black edition, with the latest compressor and larger turbine. It should be making power easier then the previous version.

A result sent in from an SS1PU customer. This is the latest version also that has a different compressor that is engineered to hold boost better and more top end.

It is running on E85 maxing out fuel pump. Peek of 301rwkws @ 17psi. With plenty of mid range.

From customer's feed back letter:

R34 GTT (Stock Motor)

Supporting Mods

Blitz FMIC Return Flow

1000cc Injectors

Standard Airbox (Panel Filter)

3inch Bellmouth Full Exhaust

Z32 AFM

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump

SS1PU (latest model)

Scotty's Alloy Intake

CALTEX E-Flex

301.8 Rwkw (18psi peak, drops off to 17psi holds well)

atr43ss1pu.jpg

Is that wheelspin or is it an auto?

It is a manual. Don't know about wheels spinning, this is a responsive turbo that reached 20psi by 3500rpms while tested on my car.

The older versions has a boost tapper behavior up top maxing towards 260rwkws, I have had that fixed, also resulted in greater top end power. Pulse racing has sent in a feed back mentioning it is the best bolton turbo he ever had on dyno.

Another update this is my latest ATR43SS2 turbocharger.Compare to the current one. Compressor inducer has been increased by 2mms, while the turbine inducer and exducer has been increased by 3mms. This particular one is expected to be maxed out at around 390rwkws on E85.

comp.JPG

Ball bearing version of above SS2 turbocharger. Its now fitted into my KIA.

ss2.JPG

Very tight engine bay.

ss2enginebay.JPG

Hopefully making 220fwkws on unopened NA engine with stock auto. will update result once tuned.

Just re-cap.

Its a 2009 Kia sportage, factory G4GC 10:1 compression engine, Auto.

Return flow cooler

650cc injectors

Adaptronic E420D ecu

HPVA 50mm external gate

Brae Manifold

3inches turbo back exhaust.

Currently pulling 200fwkws on E85 at 14psi.

  • Like 1

man that ball bearing version of the SS2 looks awesome, keeps spinning and spinning and spinning and spinning.. can't say the journal one does that haha

Oh yeah, been touching up my tune, here's my map (for those DIYers who are interested).

Can't seem to squeeze anymore out of the stock injectors, boost now at 1.2bar with SS2, externally gated.

Pulls like a freight train in 3rd, and I'm able to get full boost in 5th at 3600rpm :)

post-22311-0-80353000-1397783952_thumb.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...