Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have you been on the dyno with that set up Johnny?

Not yet, but most likely next month after the track day.

It's pretty fast I can tell you that and will take more timing. However, I feel it's safer to ram in more boost run lazy timing. I'm feeding it 1.6bar now :)

completely stock engine right? you might be better off leaving some timing out of it even if it can take it happily. Still it will be fun to see how the dyno goes. What clutch are you using? I'm up to replace mine soon

yep, unopened and about 300 000kms on it (clock says 140 000 but I'm skeptical about it).

I'm running a funny clutch actually, it started life off as a NPC Carbotic Push Clutch with a 1.8 ton pressure plate. After 1.5 years it started to slip so I pulled it out to get it checked. Turns out bearing carrier was incorrect causing the clutch to be disengaged every so slightly all the time.

So got the pressure plate machined and clamp reduced, the correct bearing/bearing carrier put back in and I decided to go for a Xtreme Racing Disc instead. It's lighter and also easier to drive with.

So now I've got a NPC pressure plate that has its clamp brought down to ~1.6 tons with a Xtreme Clutch Disc that was tricked up.

Car drives like a Yaris.. you could press the clutch pedal with 4 figures.

ondynobonetup.jpg

GTR Dynoed today. it made 308rwkws with 16.5psi, injectors maxed. I will be upgrading to ID 1000s before the next dyno tune. In comparison to Rb25det, they seems to be making the same power except Rb26 engine is 300RPM laggier without the advantage of VCT. Car however is pretty good to drive. I will be evaluating the ATR43 Alpha series shortly which should have similar effects of having VCT.

Dyno reading shown comparison between SL20.5 V factory N1 turbochargers on same boost level.

308rwkw.jpg

Old fashion engineering for a bit of laugh: Making an window seal plug out of solid piece PVC plastic:

plugonmill1.jpg

plugonmill2.jpg

plugoncar.jpg

Not really. The SL20.5 is a common turbocharger used for Rb25's external gated applications. So I would like to see the differences in between the two engines. The built purpose is for the further developments on the SS Alpha turbos, which I'm concentrating on making a responsive big single.

  • Like 1

While I'm in here, I have twin GT-RSs on my RB2630 and the rear wheels are choking it up top, is there an option to fit a bigger turbine wheel ?

Just a quick update. I'm in the process of making a 55mm exhaust wheel for SR20det motor. That is a mm a side bigger then your GTRs turbine all around. I will doing some evaluations ready, they should be the solution for your current issue on the Rb2630 and pickup more mid / top rang torque also.

The new 55mm version of our ATR28G/SS 1x exhaust wheel is evaluated today. I have fitted with with a G2 71mm compressor for this evaluation.

atr28g2front.jpg

turbine.jpg

We've started with 16psi and boosted it till no more power can be made:

power.jpg

boost.jpg

272rwkws is the peek and good enough to make 200rwkws @ 4000 RPM on a SR. Pump 98 fuel is used.

Compare to standard G2 with 53mm turbine:

Thin lines are from standard G2. Note the boost taper behavior is minimized pre 20psi. New turbine wheel is 200RPM laggier, but managed to hold power longer after 6500. We where also been able to run more boost that made more power. My exhaust manifold did not turn red during any of the runs above either, which did running standard 53mm turbine. It result was similar to as if the G2 was externally gated.

We can also notice that the compressor wheel is reaching its maximum efficiency as more boost is added, that is indicating that an larger compressor wheel can be used working with this turbine. I will be using our SS15 compressor for my next evaluation.

powervs.jpg

boostvs.jpg

There is about 14kws differences up top at identical boost levels. I have made a marking on graph below:

powervsmarked.jpg

So by using two of those turbine wheels on the RB2630DETT mentioned, it will significantly drop your back pressure in upper revs, and hold power band for longer.

  • Like 2

Thank you that that is very interesting, I am pulling motor out over Christmas and amongst other things want to upgrade turbos so I will have figure out extacly what I'm going to do, I also want to go a bit smaller with comp wheel in Billet, 67-68mm I think should give same flow but better response

Your GTR, have you played with cam timing yet ? if not try 6deg adv on intake and 9deg ret on exhaust :thumbsup:

  • Like 2

Thank you that that is very interesting, I am pulling motor out over Christmas and amongst other things want to upgrade turbos so I will have figure out extacly what I'm going to do, I also want to go a bit smaller with comp wheel in Billet, 67-68mm I think should give same flow but better response

Your GTR, have you played with cam timing yet ? if not try 6deg adv on intake and 9deg ret on exhaust :thumbsup:

9 degrees is a long way to shift a cam. Are you sure? I'm looking into this at the moment because I'm in the process of putting my engine together still.

with factory cams most people say around -2-4 degrees on the exhaust and +4-6 on the intake.

I just want a good baseline to start with really. What is the consensus these days?

in case it matters, the turbos are HKS GTSSx2 and the engine will be around the 9.3:1 CR but I don't know if that will make much difference to optimal cam timing.

edit: sorry Stao for hijacking your thread

Edited by Blackkers

^^^ if you ever got a ride in the car, you'd understand.

This man he knows :)

My 32 is set purely for response and my exhaust cam is a fair bit more then that, that setting is what I would consider a good allround setting for response and top end without the over the top anger my 32 has

  • Like 1

The settings are for stock cams, 32 and 33 are same 34 is different timing, anyone into moding cars should know you always find corrected 0deg and start from there

As for bottom end I fail to see how it makes a difference as every revolution is still 360 unless that changed while I wasn't looking :P

As for bottom end I fail to see how it makes a difference as every revolution is still 360 unless that changed while I wasn't looking :P

Not sure if trolling :huh: Either way, pretty sure we had a yarn on this very topic almost a year ago you were talking camshaft design, I remember wondering if you were really listening to my side of the conversation or not. Perhaps I have my answer to that? :whistling:

Production line style tuning can work it lots of cases, especially if applied to identical setups but I tend to be a bit more fussy/cautious about it and prefer to not tell people or apply rules blindly to every setup everywhere without some forethought or testing to ensure things are definitely going to turn out the way intended - but that is just me. The car would at the very least need to be retuned to suit a drastic change like this, imho.

It was a suggestion, Dan.

Really, who would change cam timing and not have the car on the dyno?

Heaps of people. Have you seen the crazy shit some people do on here? ;)

  • Like 1

It was a suggestion, Dan.

Really, who would change cam timing and not have the car on the dyno?

There is an industry relying on people doing that kind of thing to earn their money :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...