Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure if trolling :huh: Either way, pretty sure we had a yarn on this very topic almost a year ago you were talking camshaft design, I remember wondering if you were really listening to my side of the conversation or not. Perhaps I have my answer to that? :whistling:

Production line style tuning can work it lots of cases, especially if applied to identical setups but I tend to be a bit more fussy/cautious about it and prefer to not tell people or apply rules blindly to every setup everywhere without some forethought or testing to ensure things are definitely going to turn out the way intended - but that is just me. The car would at the very least need to be retuned to suit a drastic change like this, imho.

No I'm serious, the "guy" I recommended these settings to was Hypergear who has a stock engine with stock cams as far as I have read

This why I said try these settings because I have tried and tested all different setting with stock RB26 engines and these are good for response with mid-top end on a stock production engine and this was intended as a good starting point to try

I didn't recommend these to some random dude on a forum but to Hypergear and will add Blackers to this, I assumed Hypergear who build turbos for a living and does everything on a dyno and Blackers who if I'm right is affiliated with MoTec somehow would automaticly understand that these need to be set from a corrected 0deg and should be done then tested on a dyno, are you saying that was wrong on my behalf and that I should have spelled that out to them ?

We probably did have this discussion but as you said it was about cam designing and not stock cams, the fact I don't remember could be a couple of reasons, 1 it was about a year ago and I have a lot going on and don't remember every conversation I have on a forum or 2, I thought about what you said and dismissed it as wrong and moved on

As for these settings they where given to enhance a stock engine not a highly modified highly strung race weapon with custom cams and will work with any stock camed RB26 head regardless of the bottom end providing the base cam timing is +/- 2 deg from 0

and again I have been reminded I should bother trying to help anyone cause clearly I have no idea and the results I have gotten from my cars was just a fluke and the 32 I managed to do before ever stepping foot into SAU so I'm still not sure how that could have happened or even been possible

This is the last post I will post in this thread in regards to this matter if you want to continue this take it to PM

keep calm and boost on! :) on a side note and hopefully dragging it back to hypergear thread.... i'll be recieving my atr43ss2 in the next week or two and getting the fabrication work done towards the end of October, Then it'll be on the dyno to see what my old donk will do. A question for those who have done it. would there be any 'noticable' benefit to using adjustable cam gears on stock cams for an RB25det.

You can fit a adjustable exhaust cam gear for very slight gains. As for the intake you cant because of the vct.

The stock vct gear is adjustable, but from the back. You have to take it off to adjust it.

I made a thing so it can be adjusted from the front, then found out it had already been made by others years ago and isn't much use anyway.

Edited by Ben C34

John Richo's Phillip Island footage. 1.447 run:

Car is currently using one of our current 21U high flows making a super responsive 320rwkws on E85 fuel.

  • Like 1

recieved my ATR43ss2 today, can't wait to get it fabricated up. One question, the CHRA has four waterfeed/returns. 2 have bolts in them and the other 2 plastic bungs...how should i hook these up properly?

oil feed from block

oil return to sump

water in

water out

just follow the stock lines easy, I hope you've asked for Tao's optional oil feed line.. makes fitting much easier.

I also bought the Kando dim sim yum cha braided water line set off eBay - makes fitting much easier than using the stock lines.

yeah i've taken the plugs off...one is shallow which i think is return and one is deep which i think is feed. I'm guessing this is so the turbo can be mounted on either side of the engine e.g for exhaust on other side of engine like toyota.

The SLSS2 is an externally gated Vband version of the ATR43-SS2. They are the same turbo just different housings for different applications.

  • Like 1

With the plug supplied, plug up two of the holes and connect waters to any of the two that are open. Alternatively you can remove the plug and run it oil cooled only. The thread fitting on them is M14x1.5

  • Like 1

Spent some time this weekend evaluating the SS Alpha turbos on the GTR. First thing to notice is the Rb26dett engine do require an large exhaust side to run, It chocked the engine after 5000RPM using the combination of the SS2 turbine wheel in .82 housing.

slss3front.jpg

it was replaced it with an large 76mm turbine that I've made for high flows, that worked pretty sweet. The engine bay was noticeably cooler also.

turbo.jpg

Looking abit more serious now :rolleyes: .

carfront.jpg

podon.jpg

Because the effect of quart throttle, the car has an throw-out effect on throttle movement, this makes an laggy turbo feels not as obvious. The VNT system have made an noticeable torque increase down low, especially on partial throttle opening. This is a bigger turbo compare to the Sl20.5, but definitely feels more responsive to drive. Be interested to see what the dyno says in about a week, I'm currently waiting for some coil packs to turn up from Japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...