Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The SS15 high flow would work extremely well, Will be suited between 200~230rwkws region:

I can confirm this, I've got one on my tarmac rally car it's fantastic. Topped out at 220kw@20psi but the boost response is fantastic.

Edited by Komdotkom

I guess we can call the new turbo ATR45.5SAT model. I'm keen to see the result.

The Yellow R34 No.2 didn't go so well unfortunately, and we had to sort out a bunch of little problems with installation as well as getting the car running properly, there is still issues on ECU communicating with the boost solenoid, we run out time and have to finish off the tune another day.

But yes it is very responsive, notice the linear power and torque before 3000RPM:

ss2proottypepower270515.jpg

ss2proottype270515.jpg

2ndly, because I'm now using a JJR's normal front mount cooler kit instead of the return flow. Boost shoot easily over 20psi. I'm sure that 90 degrees bend would be cause of the boost tapper on earlier runs.

But either way, special application turbo for return flow cooled RB25dets are available.

yea this car's the worst out of all, still alot of little stuff to fix, while I've already made the next booking sitting around for 40 mints, next tune is booked 3 weeks away. hopefully all sorted by then.

any ideas why my boost would fluctuate from 15-17 psi back and forth?

changed to a 15psi actuator and this started happening, should i add more or less preload?

previous actuator did not have this issue.

no boost controller installed, running gate pressure

updating some 1JZ results. Those are from 1JZGTE Chasers:

This is 292rwkws on 19psi on our TD06SL205 Turbocharger externally gated, P98 fuel, Unopened engine:

sl2051jz292rwkwp98.jpg

And this is using a high flowed factory CT15B on E85 fuel making 321rwkws.

ct15bhf321rwkwe85.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Little update. The R34's definitely not going as smooth as any of the other cars I've modified. The new car's finally made it self all working today on the dyno. It hits a boost restriction which boost curve went flat at 19psi on 90% ebc duty, how ever the pressure before intercooler is showing a boost curve that kept on clamming all the way up to 24psi.

After setting EBC on 100% duty after 4000RPM, and there is still a 4psi pressure drop. Didn't got up to expectations but definitely better then the 9psi drop that I've had with the return flow kit. Its currently using a 600x300x68mm Takashi cooler, I will be upgrading it to 600x300x100mm and hopefully reduces the percentage of pressure drop.

I have never experienced similar issues on my R33, S14 or the R33-GTR, but to both of my R34s.

That R34 made 425rwkws earlier did not have this issue however, by using a RB26 inlet manifold. I'm unsure if it is related to the actual design of the inlet manifold, if so I might have to make a group of special application turbos just for R34s.

Power stays 267rwkws @ 20psi, basically made no differences apart from lag using a much larger turbo.

power.jpg

Boost curve before cooler (20psi) and after throttle body (24psi) at 100% EBC duty

boost.jpg

Hmmm....interesting. I've got your ATR43 G4 going on my NEO in the next few weeks. Will be interesting to see if I suffer similar issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...